SWMBO - Proud owner of Peugeot 3008 Allure 1.6HDi. Question about electronic parking brake.

[Rhothgar]

Afternoon all,

Well she went and did it so I need to expand my knowledge on the new technologies it has.

First off is the electronic parking brake. I've read that these can be a problem so how do they actually work please?

I assume that there is some kind of servo motor which winds the caliper on?

Honestly, I have no idea as I've not even looked underneath yet.

It sounds a bit noisy so just thinking I could strip down calipers, clean and lubricate necessary areas. Watched one video on YouTube last night where the brake pads were seized in the caliper which simply got me thinking how do these electronic parking brakes actuate.

[GiveMeABreak]

On this model you have an electric unit that just retracts and releases the handbrake cables to the rear calipers. The handbrake is automatically applied when you switch the engine off and can be released by either releasing it using the switch or by pulling away.

Before you get too carried away, be aware that before you undertake any work on the brake pads or calipers that the EPB must be put into service mode AND remove the battery negative cable, so that it cannot automatically apply itself and potentially remove some fingers whilst working on it. This needs to be done to ensure that the cables are slack enough to allow any related work to be done. You'll need Diagbox to do this or PP2000.

[Rhothgar]

Cheer Marc.

If I've read the correct posts it would appear that the super expensive motor unit is housed within the internal compartment and is unlikely to give much trouble though it has a service life cycle!!! Some models I read about X7 2008 has around 100000 application / release cycles in it.

If the 3008 has the same system or, at least an iteration of it, I expect that it will need replacement at some point.

My Lexia will be too out of date to read this vehicle so will need to get a full chip one with the gold edges on the PCB I'm thinking.

Read a post where RichardW says the cables are cheap. Is was thinking perhaps replace the cables and clean up calipers to ensure stress on the motor unit is reduced to a minimum but if they simply stop working after so many cycles is it even worth bothering trying to prevent?

[RichardW]

Power unit is under the passenger seat, and yes they are a bit noisy. Cables last at least 10 years and don't break the unit, so there's no real need to worry about them if working OK. The switch can break if you're heavy handed with it, but cheap and easy to replace. Smooth auto release on a manual takes a bit of practice - I like to lift the clutch slightly then blip the throttle to get it to release before actually trying to pull away.

[Rhothgar]

Power unit is under the passenger seat, and yes they are a bit noisy. Cables last at least 10 years and don't break the unit, so there's no real need to worry about them if working OK. The switch can break if you're heavy handed with it, but cheap and easy to replace. Smooth auto release on a manual takes a bit of practice - I like to lift the clutch slightly then blip the throttle to get it to release before actually trying to pull away.

That's why it's noisy then. Might still take a look in summer to see if it can be lubed with the proper lubes. Probably cannot get into it. I read about your trials of your passenger seat.

Need to read up on how things work as it only seems to hold for 2 seconds when you remove your foot off the clutch at lights. Maybe it's a setting. Need to have a look through the system.

[RichardW]

That's right for the hill hold - separate to the handbrake. It holds the footbrake on long enough to allow you to pull away without it rolling back.

[Sloppysod]

Also, you need to make your self familiar with the 'normal' mode and the 'full-on' mode, especially when you get an MOT, some garages don't understand its different, if it's the same the X7, you have to hold the lever 'on' for a few seconds to get the Handbrake fully applied for the MOT, otherwise it could fail.....
Other manufacturers do it differently.!

[Rhothgar]

Spotted another little issue today. Not a biggie.

When the car is locked, the driver's mirror does not fully retract. It moves a small amount. Have tried gently pushing whilst actuating but it doesn't go further.

It manually folds car and luckily is on driver's side so easy to do if you remember. On our road, we don't want to be putting an insurance claim in for a £500 mirror when someone knocks it off.

Presumably the motor is in the door somewhere? Or is it behind the mirror glass? Might need a bit of PlusGas to free it up...

Shall perhaps try Marc's suggestions first in this post:-

viewtopic.php?t=65041#top

[GiveMeABreak]

The motors I'm afraid are buried in the mirror unit itself.

With the mirror extended normally, gently try and force it back into the retracted folded position manually, simulating a knock, then using the fob, lock and and unlcok the car a few times to allow it to re-engage itself. These are designed to suffer knocks to some degree but can re-engage themselves like this. Failing this do the same, but fold it in the opposite direction and repeat to see if you can get it to comply.

[Rhothgar]

The motors I'm afrain are buried in the mirror unit itself.

With the mirror extended normally, gently try and force it back into the retracted folded position manually, simulating a knock, then using the fob, lock and and unlcok the car a few times to allow it to re-engage itself. These are designed to suffer knocks to some degree but can re-engage themselves like this. Failing this do the same, but fold it in the opposite direction and repeat to see if you can get it to comply.

Will have to have another go. If I can get into the mirror, I suppose I could check to see if the gears are made of toffee and engineer something up.