Ford KA 2011 1.3 TDCi Gear / Clutch problem

[Skull]

Daughters car on 102K

She's owned for 6 years and I've done all the servicing / repairs / MoT needed in that time.

Recently just after the last MoT she's had trouble selecting gears, the reverse on her car (no syncromesh) has always been a bit crunchy, but now even with a double de-clutch it wont engage, I've advised turning the engine off if she needs to reverse, and double de-clutching if she has trouble getting the forward gears.

There is no fluid leak on the hydraulic clutch that I can see (common fault on similar Fiat 500's) and reservoir level is full, clutch slave rod has good range movement, clutch doesn't slip even when provoked with her new rear brakes and drums (last MoT), Whilst investigating I thought I'd found the issue after stripping out the battery/tray/ECU I found a worn gear linkage bush, Ford wanted to sell the full cable set-up for £330, but I managed to find some cheap cable ends for the gearbox ends (£30) hopeful that this was the problem.

Skull's Bush!

Once fitted, It didn't seem to improve the gear change, so whilst I was away for a week, I got a FREE Halfords Clutch Assesment done - "Renew the clutch assembly" was the Recommended Solution £517.72

I'm now preparing for the job but wondered if anyone has any other ideas to try before I get stuck in ....Gearbox oil is £30 a Ltr from Ford (sealed for life box ) but I've got some ordered for £21 a Ltr (1.65 Ltr required) clutch is also a 2 part hydraulic hose (slave has a rusty grub screw for bleeding but I daren't try that as it looks like it will crumble - visible just below the bush in the photo on top of the slave cylinder)

I've done a few clutches before Triumph TR7 / Citroen AX / Citroen Xantia but they were all obviously broken, I'm struggling with my diagnosis on the KA as it's not slipping at all so I'm wondering if the pressure plate could be more worn than the friction plate for the symptons I have?

[bobins]

As a 'no cost' check, have a look at the gear lever bushings and mechanism underneath the gear stick. It's not that likely to be that, but it'd be good to rule out the easy stuff first. Failing that - clutch release bearing worn out and/or the clutch fork is worn or damaged ?

[Skull]

As a 'no cost' check, have a look at the gear lever bushings and mechanism underneath the gear stick.

Good point bobins, as the smaller one on the gearbox end was well worn, that's the trouble with not getting a decent time to investigate, when she's never here for long these days

Next time I see the car I will have a look there.....

[Rp0thejester]

Start with the cheap stuff, if it works then great, if it doesn't then at least you'll have peace of mind that those parts won't fail

[MattBLancs]

Think Halfords solution of "replace everything" hardly a surprise result (accompanied by a just audible "cherrrrching!!" ) to my cynical mind anyway! Don't forget the 72p!

Surprised quite how rusty everything looks in your image, but suppose needs realisation that 2011 is a while ago now!

I'd do as others have said too, cheap stuff externally (especially if are similar common faults on same/similar components signed off by the same accountant...) Ahead of the full box change.

Gearbox oil extortionately expensive - what's the spec? Fully synthetic or just straight pureed unicorn horn?

Good luck with the job, looks like one that'll grow given the corroded stuff visible already.

[Skull]

Surprised quite how rusty everything looks in your image, but suppose needs realisation that 2011 is a while ago now!

Cheers MattBLancs Yes it is quite rusty generally, there is very little protection underneath, no underseal anywhere

Gearbox oil extortionately expensive - what's the spec? Fully synthetic or just straight pureed unicorn horn?

MattBLancs In the handbook it states "TUTELA CAR TECHNYX" and I think that 75w-85 is the recommended grade (non unicorn).

[Rp0thejester]

Is there no undertray?

[Skull]

Is there no undertray?

Rp0thejester No, just wheel arch liners

[Rp0thejester]

Ouch, that will cause alot of rust but not terminal, can you get one?

[Skull]

Is there no undertray?

Rp0thejester No, just wheel arch liners EDIT I meant none fitted as standard

[RichardW]

Usual test is to try with engine off, if it goes in Ok, then clutch is probably dragging when engine running. I'd suspect in this case Halfords are right.

[Skull]

Usual test is to try with engine off, if it goes in Ok, then clutch is probably dragging when engine running. I'd suspect in this case Halfords are right.

Cheers Richard yes as above, to select reverse especially the engine needs turning off. Additionally the clutch does seem to bite early, but I rarely drive this car so can't really confirm if that is the normal bite point. My Daughters car and she 'just drives it'

[Skull]

Video - for reference Credit: Kevin-Albert Williams
9m0s Engine Side Through Bolt - isn't a bolt! Nut needs either another nut locking on to allow the thread to be extracted from bell housing OR
I cut a slot with a small disc on an angle grinder, for a flat head screwdriver, which failed but managed to loosen it with a combination of impacting the edge of the slot to undo and then undone the nut which caught enough on the flat head flange to undo the thread bar (I was lucky here ) (I tried an extractor socket as per video but only had a 18v drill which didn't have the torque required) A bolt would have been easier FORD
18m23s 10mm Nut on coolant pipe bracket leaves a short thread that needs lowering / retracting through the slot before the gearbox can slide off (a FORD bolt here would have been SO MUCH easier )
19m20s Clutch Pipe Connector - Had a small fracture (not leaking) badly fitted at manufacture? Release sleeve also fractured but managed to leave it attached.

Skull's = Fractured Connector

21m12s E20 Female Star Socket Required (Gearbox Mount)
24m20s Gearbox is heavier than Kevin makes it look I used a jack
Reassembly went well ....well ....the 2nd attempt did as I (Mrs Skull denies all responsibility) hadn't noticed the cluch slave rod slip out of it's ball socket when we mated the gearbox back onto the engine (I used a tie wrap the 2nd time)
I educated my Daughter when she popped around wondering how I was getting on and why she couldn't have her car back ... "Yeah I rest my foot on that clutch pedal" she said
Parts:
Gear Selector Bush Kit £30
Ventex Clutch Kit (2 year warranty) £59.95
Gearbox Oil 1.65 Ltr TUTELA CAR TECHNYX 75w-85 £41.90
Female Torx Socket Set £10.28
Total £142.13

It took me 25 hours and I wont be doing another one of these

Skull's = If you ride the clutch

Skull's = Pressure Plate Worn Out (Me Too)

Skull's = Lots left On Clutch Disc

Skull's = OK

Skull's = Modified Short Alignment Tool Worked First Attempt

Skull's = Before And After

[attachment=0]

[RichardW]

Good work. Kevin makes it look ridiculously easy - always marvel how he just hefts the boxes in and out, and never seems to even puff a bit!!

[Skull]

Cheers Richard

Note:

Just in case this helps anyone who tackles this job ...

Once completely reassembled, on first start up it didn't sound right and engine stopped before fully starting, the yellow engine warning light was staying on, a couple more unsuccesful attempts and then I connected jump leads ...it then took several more goes with a couple of light pumps on the throttle before the engine started, (smokey exhaust), the next few starts have been spluttery but I think it has finally purged itself now so possibly air had got into the fuel system or perhaps a lack of fuel pressure.... all is good again with the clutch now