](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall"){kind=small}
Jay-Bruce wrote: 09 Mar 2023, 19:42 Back off the locking nut with a spanner, and probably a stilson around the body of the track rod end, then dowse with WD40, go for a tea break, or better still a lunch break.
On your way back from said break where the WD40 is marinading into the track rod end, bring back the firey spanner, and possibly a second stilly.
Use said blow torch / gas-axe to heat the inboard end of the outer trackrod end till hot, but not as hot as to be glowing, and try turning the inner rod with a still.
If the outer end's balljoint starts to articulate too much, use the second stilly to secure the outer end by placing the stilly the opposite direction from the inboard stilly, but on a solid part of the track rod end between the lock nut, and the balljoint.
Now apply brut force, heat and swear words in a mix entirely of your choosing, until inner trackrod can unscrew from or screw further into outer track rod end.
Repeat all steps above for other side, then grease the threads on the inner track rods to make this job easier in future.
Centre steering wheel and set up toe gauges / trakrite / whatevz and adjust to spec.
Nip up locking nuts on track rods.
Go get a well deserved beer as I'm guessing freeing off those twenty year plus old track rod ends was a pain in the plums.
You shouldn't need to remove the gaiter on either the inner trackrod joint, as your first still will be between the flame and the steering rack gator. Similarly, you'll be heating the inboard end of the outer trackrod, so you shouldn't melt the outer trackrod end's balljoint. Just be cognisant of how much heat is travelling through the outer trackrod end lest you melt the balljoint, usually the first clue you've overcooked it is when the grease starts cooking off causing the balljoint bellow to make farting noises at you, like it's blowing raspberries to mock you.
Blue is a good colour for a C5:Xantianut wrote: 09 Mar 2023, 20:40 More heat. More swearing. I'm going to have a blue car soon......
Yes exactly, i always keep my Hydraulic cars running when i adjust on the lift. They need to be at driving rideheightGiveMeABreak wrote: 10 Mar 2023, 17:22 ... and leave the engine running as I mentioned - it's an officially recommended procedure for doing this on Hydractive vehicles if doing it properly.
