Peugeot Electrical fault

[MattBLancs]

Clock: double check not just bulbs gone - sometimes the LCD is fine but bulbs both blown. Haynes says non-serviceable but it's incorrect, with care and a small screwdriver there two of the usual twist type panel bulbs inside that can be changed.

Elec windows: not unusual for the wiring between door and bodywork to fracture with use. Quite often central locking is first sign of issue, but possible electric window feed could break too. Not guaranteed your issue, but fairly common to go.

On that basis it may be that neither of the above might be relevant.

I'm still in mind that swap / have refurbed the alternator (having checked that trigger wire feed is present and correct)

Sometimes these grubby, shady, back of beyond places are the best option! Can't grumble at £8! Problem usually is they are a "hidden gem" and if didn't know was there you wouldn't give it a second look!

[onejon1]

Thanks for your reply, the main job is getting it off & on again..

I guess with it being power steering and air-con it makes a more long-winded job, I've never taken an alternator off one of these.

[MattBLancs]

Did alternator swap on mine - was working fine but howling bearings and managed to grab a "new old stock" type bargain on eBay.

Watch out for the radiator, clearance between PAS pump and radiator is tight (pretty sure the alternator has to come upwards not down) and I managed to damage mine, scraping the alternator past it. Stick some corrugated cardboard flat on the radiator surface as bit of sacrificial material.

[onejon1]

Got the alternator replaced, unfortunately this did not fix any of the previous issues.

I am still left with the following issues:

Clock, electric windows not working and also first position of key turn, no battery light, then engine starts and battery light comes on, straight away.

I'm gonna try to find an auto electrician.

Any suggestions desperately needed as this is turning into a marathon of a job.

[MattBLancs]

Oh dear, sorry to hear not yet fixed.

I don't think these have a "smart" alternator, so should be two connections - the big one (13mm nut) is output, the smaller one is the trigger feed. (Smart alternator: big 13mm connection the other is a electric connector 2 pin from memory)

My understanding is that you should see battery voltage on the little connection with engine running. I'd check for this without doing the rev up that kicks it into life (as per your video)

If that isn't seeing battery voltage then that would be where to dig. I'll have a look at Haynes wiring diagrams see if can confirm where that feed comes from. Bear with me....

[MattBLancs]

Excerpt from Haynes 306 manual (3073) diagram 28 (typical diesel engine management system 2.0 HDI)

1 battery,
2 ignition switch
3 maxi fusebox (in engine bay I think)
5 passenger fusebox
6 starter motor
7 alternator
20 instrument cluster (and A is the alternator light)

So alternator has two connections,

Big one has BB18 - straight to starter motor and BB10 which is Nr = noir = black goes off elsewhere.

Small one is 1070. Mr = brown. Unhelpfully before instrument cluster it's swapped colours to Be = blue.

So ignition switch in 1st and second positions (accessory and running) should feed power via AA1 (black) to passenger fusebox, fuse F28 then feeds 12v via A287 (ve = green) to pin 15 of instrument cluster's 26 pin BE = blue connector.
From there it runs through bulb and resistor? To pin 14 and on to the alternator small terminal as described.


So check for 12 volts along that route (fuse 28, then probably easiest to jump instrument cluster and check alternator small terminal, then if at the fuse but not at the alternator, you're looking at instrument cluster out and check the pins described above.

[onejon1]

Thanks very much. I've not checked yet but will have a look.

This is the one that came off, see pictures.

It was dark when I picked the car up so have not looked at the new one, yet.

The garage tested before & after, said it's now at the correct voltage, when idling, so at least that has now ruled the alternator out as being the cause?

[MattBLancs]

Couple of extra questions:

Correct voltage at idle I'd good news - does it do that without needing the quick rev up? If so then we're a better situation than on the video.

Did you get chance to look at bulbs on the clock?

I'll see if Haynes has a wiring diagram for the elec windows shortly.

Third picture is the two pins I described on the previous post, top one is the feed in, the bigger one is the output. My memory was correct, is a standard rather than "smart" alternator

[MattBLancs]

I'll see if Haynes has a wiring diagram for the elec windows shortly.

Sorry, slipped my mind completely till now

Haynes (3073) diagram 27

[onejon1]

Thank you soo much.

[GiveMeABreak]

If you find the Haynes diagram that Matt has replicated above is not representative, just pop your VIN up and I'll put up the official vehicle-specific vectorised version for you.

[MattBLancs]

If you find the Haynes diagram that Matt has replicated above is not representative, just pop your VIN up and I'll put up the official vehicle-specific vectorised version for you.

Ah yes, very good point "typical details" being Haynes' get out of jail free card!

[onejon1]

1st Position 12.50v
2nd position engine idling 14.30v (reading taken from the side of fuse from the Ignition switch)
2nd position engine idling 4.07v (reading taken from the side of the fuse towards the instrument cluster)

[onejon1]

If you find the Haynes diagram that Matt has replicated above is not representative, just pop your VIN up and I'll put up the official vehicle-specific vectorised version for you.

VF3**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

[GiveMeABreak]

A little old these, so not as good quality as the later ones, but here you go:

Front Windows



6036 : driver's door electric window/mirror control pad
6040 : driver's electric window motor
BMF1 : maxi fuse unit
B003 : mixed equipotential terminal 3
BMF1 : maxi fuse unit
0004 : instrument panel /
BH28 : passenger compartment 28-fuse box /


Rear Windows



6040 : driver's electric window motor
6100 : rear LH electric window rear switch
6105 : rear RH electric window rear switch
6120 : rear window lift inhibitor switch
6125 : rear electric window lift relay
6130 : rear left-hand window lift motor /
3050 : lighting rheostat
0002 : lighting and signalling switch