C4 Engine & Box Out...

[Tonyl]

Yes I used to be one of those double cab idiots but I’ve grown up since . I just do the same now with a C4…,.

Cleaning the inlets and manifold, head, everything I just resorted to my handy karcher to get the worst off as brake cleaner 5€ a tin here and was using far too much. Used that for the finishing clean.

Re roller rockers one thing to note - manual shows with post retaining clips as does official PSA paperwork but mine didn’t have. Strange one - I’ve owned since new in 2008 so I know it’s as per factory so I put back without. It’s run for over 250k like this.

I did think about overhauling starter motor, new brushes etc whilst engine out as I think virtually impossible in-situ but decided in the end to leave alone. Hope not a mistake….

[RichardW]

Timing the belt is easy enough, pin in the crank and cam sprocket, there's also one in the pump, but it might not be critical. Not sure about the chain, I'll see what I can find.

[Tonyl]

As long as you count the chain link pins between the two cam sprocket marks (from memory should be 12 pins, not links, but suggest double check) and pin the cam sprocket correctly as suggested then it will all align. Re fuel pump it’s a constant pressure unit so timing not critical but as it has a pinning hole I pinned it with the cam and crank sprockets. Pinning the crank sprocket (it’s actually the reluctor ring that has the timing hole) should put the piston halfway down the bore on the downstroke.

[RichardW]

2 sets of instructions seem to be given, depending on whether it's 'previous' or 'new' assembly. Doesn't say what the difference is however... hopefully you still have the original chain and can count the links between the markers to work out which to apply!

[Doo]

As usual on this engine, yet another hiccup

Valves done, removed the old stem seals, opened the pack to find.....they're for an 8 valve motor

Tomorrow, I shall mostly be trying three different places to see where I originally bought the kit

[Tonyl]

Ha! Easy done. Whilst speaking of cylinder heads and apologies if teaching to suck eggs but ensure correct thickness gasket used. There’s a convoluted measurement and calculations to work out average piston height but frankly if heads not skimmed and pistons/rods same then just check what was already fitted - in my case a four-notch - and matching that should be fine. Another tip when head bolt tightening that I’ve always followed - of course follow the sequence and torques but I always repeat the sequence again and you will find the first bolts are no longer tight due to the pull down of the later bolts. In other words I double check at each stage and repeat to the same torque until evenly pulled down. Of course this doesn’t apply to the angles stage! Hope helps.

[Doo]

Ha! Easy done. Whilst speaking of cylinder heads and apologies if teaching to suck eggs but ensure correct thickness gasket used. There’s a convoluted measurement and calculations to work out average piston height but frankly if heads not skimmed and pistons/rods same then just check what was already fitted - in my case a four-notch - and matching that should be fine. Another tip when head bolt tightening that I’ve always followed - of course follow the sequence and torques but I always repeat the sequence again and you will find the first bolts are no longer tight due to the pull down of the later bolts. In other words I double check at each stage and repeat to the same torque until evenly pulled down. Of course this doesn’t apply to the angles stage! Hope helps.

Friend of mine had a Vauhall Vectra (Opel Vectra) and bought it having had the head done. Lasted 3 months, got it done again....Lasted three months... Got it done again...You've guessed it, 3 months!

Came to me and I was surprised it had been done so many times

I took it apart and found a tiny little grain of sand lump on the block, so I sanded it (properly) and put it back together.

Was still going several years later

I don't always bother with the torque settings as much as angle settings. But all alloy engines are a little more in need of some love....

[Doo]

Evening all. Can anyone tell me WHERE to find valve collets for a 2007 Citroen 1.6hdi 16v??

ALL I can find on the bay are VTI and 1.6 petrol, etc.

It doesn't matter if I type collet or cotter and any version of the make, model, year, amount of valves, DV6 and whatnot. The ONLY collets I can't find are the ones I need

I lost one

[Steve Walsh]

Main Dealer, Not bought any for a while but I think they were a couple of quid

[Doo]

Main Dealer, Not bought any for a while but I think they were a couple of quid

I was looking at the bay... I called the local engine remanufacturer. Going in shortly

[Doo]

Just looking at the replies re timing. I missed them somehow! So thanks all.

I replaced the timing chain & tensioner and it is very pretty with coloured links

It's fitted to its case and awaits fitting... So I'll check on the marks and make sure it's good to go.

Back in the day, I was always doing Peugeot, Renault, Vauxhall, etc, engines. All timing marks easy to find. No messing about, bish, bash, bosh. Out, fix back in same day or next day.

This has been a pain in my butt crack since the day I decided to take it out! It's fought me the whole way

[MattBLancs]

Was an interesting read, and very familiar territory - I did similar to my wife's 206 with a DV6. Was turbo failure (caught very early, i.e. before catastrophic failure!) Initially a bit of a clean up, then I decided to check the glow plugs - all 4 dead, open circuit. Went to unscrew and 2 out of 4 sheared off - one just the very end of the tip, the other a bit more. Researched kits to drill it out with the head in place and decided instead to get the head off then could relap the valves and more thoroughly clean.

Accumulated much in inlet and head was awful! EGR + crank case breather (with split diaphragm under that round cap as described here) seems perfect recipe for building up thick black layer over the lot. Soooo well stuck to the surface. Will try pressure washer next time - though perhaps need one of those drain cleaning attachments to properly do full length of inlet.

Bought a cheap spring compressor kit off eBay, see if can find a picture as was nice and slim - just like your excellent home made version. Was essentially a g-cramp type arrangement so screw thread rather than having to hold against the spring pressure.

Matt

[Doo]

Hi all, after my local engineering company contacted me to tell me the company they use had supplied an 8 valve gasket set instead of a 16 valve one, I got the correct set and started on the engine last night.

To help others contemplating a timing belt change or a build, here's a few snaps of the timing hole on the crank reluctor ring. It can only go on the correct way round and the is only 1 round hole on the ring...

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As you can see, my previous markings just in case...

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In goes the locking pin...

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New oil cooler...

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New water pump...

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Alternator on...

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Fuel pump & EGR valve on...

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Next job, torque the head bolts. But to do that, I need the gearbox attached so I can strap the engine down (I made the table with trolley style wheels so I could manoeuvre it around the workshop)...

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Slowly slowly goes the job

[RichardW]

It's worth noting that there is a hole in the engine rear plate above the exhaust which allows you to insert a pin into the flywheel to lock the crank to undo the crank bolt, but this is not at the timing position!

[Tonyl]

Yes, I used that hole to torque it back up again - 12mm drill fits perfectly and as you say, nil to do with timing, it’s just there purely to lock the flywheel (hence crank) for the front pulley bolt. Helps to pop a mirror there to see in - found it first rotation.