C4 Clutch Replacement

[Doo]

This question is aimed at Marc I think....

I am replacing the clutch and some other stuff too, so engine out. I wonder should I go the whole hog and remove the box too, or is there no point?

Anyway, since the engine is coming out it should make things like the timing chain, timing belt, water pump and replacing the glow plugs.

So before I even remove the first bolt, I take it I will have to depressurise the system like I did when I reprogrammed the clutch??

The new clutch comes with a slave cylinder so I will replace the fluid while I am at it.

Anything else I should be aware of??

I've changed umpteen engines in my time so while I am not looking forward to it, I can't foresee any real issues, but a heads up is always appreciated.

What is the sequence of events when it is all fitted and installed? What should I do FIRST once the battery is connected please?

And finally, this car came with green coolant, which I believe is wrong, so I will replace it with OAT coolant. I will make sure to flush all the green poo out of the whole system. I plan to plug the hose into the matrix top hose and let it run, then the radiator and any other hoses as well as the thermostat housing.

Have I missed anything

Thanks.

Doo....

[wheeler]

I am replacing the clutch and some other stuff too, so engine out. I wonder should I go the whole hog and remove the box too, or is there no point?

I'm confused what you mean. How do you intend to replace the clutch without removing the box?

[Hell Razor5543]

I think he is wondering if he needs to take the gearbox out of the car, or can the clutch be replaced with the engine and gearbox separated?

[RichardW]

To replace the clutch the box is dropped out the bottom, which may or may not need the subframe removing. Officially the engine (with the box) comes out the bottom, but doing it on the drive I would strip the front off and pull it out forwards. Not possible to remove the engine on its own.

[wheeler]

Got the impression the OP is going to remove the engine anyway to make some other jobs that need done easier? As we know the engine & gearbox come out as one. One of the jobs to be done is replacement of the clutch which would of course require the gearbox to be separated from the engine. This is why im confused by the "I wonder should I go the whole hog and remove the box too, or is there no point?"

[Doo]

Got the impression the OP is going to remove the engine anyway to make some other jobs that need done easier? As we know the engine & gearbox come out as one. One of the jobs to be done is replacement of the clutch which would of course require the gearbox to be separated from the engine. This is why im confused by the "I wonder should I go the whole hog and remove the box too, or is there no point?"

Hi all, apologies for the confusion. I meant I will pull the engine up & out, but leave the box in situ... However, if it is easier to remove both as a unit, I am more than happy to do so.

To avoid confusion, I plan to do so in the garage (as it won't be completed before the Citroen needs done....her indoors is not happy with the current situation of unreliability) so I figured I lift the engine, but leave the box in place. However, it would seem it is better to lift both as a unit.

So, while that helps to prevent extra work, it doesn't give me the response about what is best to do once the work is completed

[RichardW]

As said there is not enough clearance to separate the engine and box in the bay without moving the box sideways, by which time it will effectively be out. I doubt there is enough room to get the unit out the C4's tiny bonnet without removing all the front, which probably means draining the AC. Apart from the glow plugs, which are probably best left alone anyway, none of the jobs are too hard with the engine in.

Yes, you will need to depressurise the box actuator.

Colour of coolant is not a good indicator as to what it is, but if in doubt drain and flush. One if the bellhousing bolts is in from the engine side, and on early cars needs the DPF removing to get access, which is easier if you pull the rad, so you may need to drain anyway. The starter is a pig, but easier if you have removed the driveshaft already.

If you do pull the engine, I'd remove the EGR valve and cooler and clean it out.

On reassembly, connect the battery then do nothing. Give it a couple of minutes to wake up, then switch on and wait another minute or two, then start it. When reprogramming the box use a battery maintainer or jump leads to keep the voltage up.

This is not the exact car, but will give you a good indication

[moizeau]

I've recently done the clutch on our C4 Coupé. I realise it will be a different engine and bodywork but to remove the lower engine mount alone the engine needed tilting forwards and there's not enough room at the front without smashing the rad. This is what was required.

There isn't room to lift it all out from the top due to the gearbox mounting bracket so the g/box was dropped down.

[Doo]

As said there is not enough clearance to separate the engine and box in the bay without moving the box sideways, by which time it will effectively be out. I doubt there is enough room to get the unit out the C4's tiny bonnet without removing all the front, which probably means draining the AC. Apart from the glow plugs, which are probably best left alone anyway, none of the jobs are too hard with the engine in.

Yes, you will need to depressurise the box actuator.

Colour of coolant is not a good indicator as to what it is, but if in doubt drain and flush. One if the bellhousing bolts is in from the engine side, and on early cars needs the DPF removing to get access, which is easier if you pull the rad, so you may need to drain anyway. The starter is a pig, but easier if you have removed the driveshaft already.

If you do pull the engine, I'd remove the EGR valve and cooler and clean it out.

On reassembly, connect the battery then do nothing. Give it a couple of minutes to wake up, then switch on and wait another minute or two, then start it. When reprogramming the box use a battery maintainer or jump leads to keep the voltage up.

This is not the exact car, but will give you a good indication

Looks like I'm in for a fun time.

It's a doddle to remove the front bumper on her car so that holds no fear for me. The A?C leaked away ages ago, so migfht be good to get everything out and see if the condenser is holed. That'll be a bonus to have AC working again.

Fairly sure the exhaust components will be pretty clean as this car gets "driven" regularly and has had BP Ultimate diesel since 2013. I'll take a look anyway...

while everything is out I can replace the fuel pressure connector and clean u all those bits you can never get to

I'm in the middle of doing my Range Rover (ABS bits & bobs) up for mot and my bike as it ran out of test a couple of weeks ago... Never rains,

[Doo]

I've recently done the clutch on our C4 Coupé. I realise it will be a different engine and bodywork but to remove the lower engine mount alone the engine needed tilting forwards and there's not enough room at the front without smashing the rad. This is what was required.

There isn't room to lift it all out from the top due to the gearbox mounting bracket so the g/box was dropped down.

Thanks for that. I've done a load of cars in the past, engines, boxes, clutches, etc. Last engine I did was the Rover. 4.0 V8 lump. My crane is a repurposed person lift from a hospital. Used to lift fat blokes out of the bath

You can see the Citroen sitting all smug there...