RichardW wrote: ↑24 Sep 2021, 23:12
What's the VIN? Which side do you need? The gearbox oil is separate to the actuator oil as far as I know, I assume it takes 75W80, could be wrong... Are you sure the shafts are pushed in properly?
I assumed so! I've done many drive shafts in my time, but Peugeot & Citroen need only move a few mm and it's the Amoco Cadiz on the driveway
I tend to pull the end right out of the hub and leave the lower ball joint connected. I can then let the shaft push against the hub to kee it in the final drive housing. However, more often than not, the splines are sticky so it can take a few taps to get it out of the hub which can ( and does) result in the other end coming away even slightly.
I spotted a leak so acted quickly, but still lost a couple of spoonfuls. So with the outer end bent and pushing against the hub, I give it a wiggle to make sure it fits home snugly. There's never a click with these so it's hard to tell if it's definately locked in place. But it can't go back any further, so one has to assume it's home.
Recently did a friends 3008 and further back, wife's C4. Both leaked a smidge, but once they were home the leak stopped. So either I damaged the lip of the seal on the Lingo or a bit of dirt found it's way in.
I'll get the one I believe is the culprit (drivers side) and inspect it for scratches.
Is there a chance of fixing a scratch using the lathe and 2000 grit paper, or should I just get a new end if there is a scratch?
I haven't had this issue with any other CV and I remember the first time I did one was on a Talbot Horizon
That's going back a bit
