C2 1.1 crank pulley flange mark...

[frenchenstein]

C2 1.1 2008

Bought this car with a stripped timing belt.
Renewed 8 valves, seals etc.
Head back on.
Ready now to put the timing belt etc. on.

Seems improbable to get my squiggly timing pin in the back of the flywheel as there is the oil filter mount assembly there.

On the crank pulley mounting flange there is a decent, factory cut, mark that will be a tdc mark, I’m assuming this should point downwards and line up with the small nib cast into the oil pump housing.
Can anyone confirm this?

As the piston to cam timing was not correct when I bought this little beauty I had no opportunity to make my own marks.

Any help greatly appreciated.

[wheeler]

Im only aware of being able to set the crank with the pin in the flywheel.

[petarc1971]

Maybe this will help.

[frenchenstein]

Thanks for your replies, I already have this information.

(How did you get the screen shots onto the forum, I can’t find how to do this.)

I think I should remove no.1 spark plug and slide a 3mm brazing rod down the hole to find tdc. I’m pretty sure this will confirm the situation. Also a sneaky peek with my borescope will help.

Many thanks

Have a great Christmas.

Kind regards

[petarc1971]

You go to the full editor, upload the pictures and send. You can find the dtc through the spark plug hole, but some motors are not brought into phase that way, but the pistons are flat in the middle of the path, the other thing is that maybe the lock on the flywheel is needed to tighten the pulley that tightens in Nm.

[wheeler]

the other thing is that maybe the lock on the flywheel is needed to tighten the pulley that tightens in Nm.

Its not really a good idea to do this & the pins are not designed for it. They should only be used for getting the flywheel into position.

Im pretty sure the TU engines set the timing with cylinders 1 & 4 at TDC, XU engines normally set with all the pistons on the level.

I know the newer TU engines with the plastic oil filter housing can be a bit more awkward to get the flywheel pin in but i have never not been able to do it, normally using long reach long nose pliers and/or 'tweaking' the timing pin.

[frenchenstein]

Good point about the pistons level in the bore on some engines; the “K Series” Rover engines are set this way.

On the TU engine the rocker arms, when the timing pin is aligned at the cam-pulley/head, are on the base circle of the cam, meaning that cylinders one and four should be at TDC when setting.

I’ll have a “jiggle” with a bolt and long-nose pliers as mentioned but failing that I’ll go for the “plug hole plunger” method.

Thank you everybody.

I hope to get some pics the forum.

Also if it turns out that the factory mark is pertinent I’ll post on this thread. Could be useful information.

[petarc1971]

For inaccessible places, an endoscope camera can be used, with such procedures it is best to follow the procedure for performing works, errors are minimized.

[frenchenstein]

Yes, I’m going to do that in any case, as I need to be assured of a “safe” initial engine start-up.

Good conversation. Many thanks.

[ozvtr]

I have a tutorial on changing the timing belt on a TU3 engine over in the C3 owners site.

https://citroenc3owners.com/tips-for-a- ... t3868.html
Open in a new window otherwise it gets hijacked, I dont know what that's about.

You can fabricate locking pins out of lynch pins from a hardware store. The 8mm for the camshaft sprocket fitted perfectly but the 6mm did not and needed to be filed down a bit but the pins were very cheap.

Remove the oil filter housing and filter and pin the fly wheel, it's the best way.

The tensioner pulley set up is a pain but stick with it, else you will end up with another busted timing belt or the belt may skip teeth. When you are finished turn the engine over by hand a number of times and check that the belt is running on the center of the camshaft sprocket. Incorrectly manufactured tensioners will cause the belt to wander off the sprocket.

[frenchenstein]

Attained tdc on no.1 cylinder via the plunger method, confirmed this with borescope at the block webbing hole to the flywheel, marked the factory cut on the front pulley flange mount to oil pump housing with blob of paint (which, incidentally, is nowhere near a corresponding mark; much to my chagrin), fitted belt, adjusted via Autodata, rebuilt and bingo engine runs very well. Three new bulbs. Two new wiper blades. Freed off the parking brake actuating levers on the brake shoes and I’m on the road. Top treat.

Now I have a Citroen Berlingo 1.8 to sell, any takers?

[frenchenstein]

[frenchenstein]

The de chevaux belongs to a friend of mine. This car took part on a road trip from the UK to the Sahara Desert, and lived to tell the tale. I MOT’d it last month. It passed the test.