C5 Tailgate won’t open

[Rikdogguk]

Hi All

I’m looking at purchasing a 2005 C5 estate. Its a well looked after car but only problem is the tailgate doesn’t open. How big an issue is this likely to be? I don’t mind having a bit of a tinker but I’m not a mechanic by any stretch.

I’ve read a few previous posts and thought it could be a broken wire... is this a fairly simple fix? Case of removing the internal lining of the tail gate and looking for breaks going back to the bellows. Would it be worth trying a BSI reset first?

It’s a fair price and a nice car otherwise so am tempted?

Thanks

RD

[Paul-R]

Please confirm that the tailgate doesn't open with either the button on the tailgate or the centre button of the keyfob.

[Rikdogguk]

Hi Paul

Yes, that is correct - it doesn’t open on either.

Many thanks

RD

[Paul-R]

In that case it's probably a break in the wiring as you suspected. I'll probably be inside the bit of the loom that flexes between the tailgate and the body. But first you have to get the tailgate open!

These are the instructions for my C5 X7 but it is almost exactly the same on your car. Once it's open you can start to investigate the wiring loom.

[Rikdogguk]

Hi Paul

Yes I can get the tailgate open with the emergency release. Presumably removing the interior trim to expose the wiring is fairly straightforward?

Thanks

Richard

[Paul-R]

First, an apology. The third button on the Mk1 C5 Estate keyfob wasn't for the tailgate, it was for the electric side windows. Your 2005 is probably a Mk2 and may be the same. I was mixing the keyfobs up with the Xsara we used to have and possibly my current C5 X7 both of which have buttons to release the tailgate on the Estate.

I never removed the trim on the C5 but I did on the Xsara which had the same problem. IIRC it was reasonably straightforward to get the trim off the tailgate and inside the car. From there I was able pull the loom out to expose the section inside the flexible conduit and replace lengths of cable as required. It's important not to simply solder up the bit that's broken but to make the solder joints in the areas that are normally static and hidden and have a fresh section of cable inside the flexible part of the loom.

[Rikdogguk]

Thanks Paul. It sounds fairly straightforward. It’s a mark 1, and my mistake, a 2004 model.

Any reason why I couldn’t use crimp connectors instead of soldering?

I think I’ll take the plunge on this. Just need to convince the wife, she’s not impressed with idea of buying a car with non opening boot! I will post up some photos of my new acquisition

[Paul-R]

Just a personal preference by me that soldering is a more reliable join than a crimp. Same thing applies though, replace the length of cable that's inside the flexible portion and make the joints in the hidden areas.

Good luck with the missus. I can't help with that!

Out of interest, do the following items work properly?
Heated rear window
Rear wiper
Tailgate glass release
Number plate lights

[Rikdogguk]

Hi Paul

The tailgate glass release is not functioning. I’ll check the others. Do they share a fuse or the same wiring loom?

Thanks

Richard

[Paul-R]

They all share the same wiring loom so are open to fracturing. They have different fuses.

The tailgate glass not operating could be due to other faults and, frankly, usually doesn't work! There are posts elsewhere here about that. Basically it's usually either the microswitch or the printed electrical path having failed.

If they all have failed then they could all have broken wires or maybe it's a connector plug problem. It's just a matter of investigating and being logical.