The curse has struck again

[white exec]

That does look a really tidy gaiter job with the lump removed, Kenny. Well done!
Should have been like that ex-factory.

[KennyW]

Chris,

The proof will be in the days to come.

Kenny

[KennyW]

Rack and sub frame back in place just to fit the wheel arch covers and wheels then add LDS fluid.

Does anyone have DIY method for pressurising the system ?

I am going to use a bicycle footpump and Pneumatic tyre valve fitted to the reservoir cap.

Kenny

[Hell Razor5543]

I picked up a spare reservoir cap from my local scrap yard. and have fitted a tyre valve to it. I have not had to use it yet.

[myglaren]

I cleverly lost all the fluid from mine when a pipe burst. Filled it up with Comma stuff from Halfords and it just lifted, needed no pressurising.

[KennyW]

Thanks James and Steve,

Will see what happens today !!!!!!!!!!!!

For everybody's Info you can get the HP & LP pipes but at a cost for my version LP part no 4012V1 £ 133.93 HP part no 4014NV £228.52.

If anyone's interested I'll put both sites up.

Kenny

[KennyW]

Everything done, no leaks, suspension moves up and down and feels alright.
Steering move from side to side, feels a bit notchy, have done more citrobotics but no driven it since.

My only concern is I cannot check the LDS fluid level due to the problem in thread on Diagnostics which I'm still trying to sort.

Are there any other ways to check fluid level.

Kenny

[GiveMeABreak]

You can manually depressurise the front and rear axles independently Kenny, but you'll need it on axle stands, or you won't be able to get under to turn the pressure release screw at the rear. However, be aware that you will lose fluid this way using the manual bleed methods:

Once you have the car on the axle stands, remove the LDS cap and place the car on the lowest suspension setting.

Disconnect the battery

Depressurising Front Axle

Place a hose on the pressure release screw (1). Gradually unscrew the pressure release screw (1). Wait for the pressure in the hydraulic circuit to fall fully.	Place a hose on the pressure release screw (2). Gradually unscrew the pressure release screw (2). Wait for the pressure in the hydraulic circuit to fall fully.

Depressurising rear Axle

With both depressurised, then you can top up the reservoir until it's between 'a' & 'b':

[KennyW]

Thanks Marc,

Okay the only way at this moment, hopefully I can sort out the diagnostic line problem,it will make life easier.

Need to do a fault check and removal tomorrow.

By that time it will be Baltic here so the diagnostic fault can wait.

Kenny

[GiveMeABreak]

It was like the Sahara here today - too hot to do anything and the ground is as dry as a bone.

[KennyW]

The rear pressure release screw is welded on by rust and won't budge.

Will keep spraying it and clean the surface joins with a wire brush.

Heat will be a last resort.

Any other ideas ?

Kenny

[GiveMeABreak]

None I'm afraid, apart from depressurising with Diagbox Kenny, that takes a minute - it's my preferred way exactly because of the issues you're having with the rear bleed screw.

Did you ever work out what was wrong with it? I'll try and find your other thread.

[KennyW]

Marc,

No, I will start to check for continuity from the ecu. I will also check the earth is clean and a good contact to the bodywork.

Also, I will spray the rear bleed screw regularly and scrape away at the thread to help the fluid to penetrate.

Will report back with news soon.

Kenny

[Filberton]

Hi guys This is probably the best place to post this as....yes, it has happened again.
With 170k on the clock and 12years of life, my 2008 c5 X7 is doing a pretty good impersonation of the Torrey Canyon as my liquid gold aka LDS drips from somewhere around the steering rack (again).
The first CITROEN original managed some 7 years, this current one (a reconditioned unit) has gone another 5 years so not too bad compared to some.

So, I have yet to clean off the mess to see if it is actually a pipe to the rack or the rack it’s self but the question is, if it is the rack that needs replacing can anyone advise (if such is allowed on the forum) the best and worst places to get a replacement please. (I have a good one man band mechanic who will fit it).

With 12 years and over 170k on the clock I am not minded to buy a brand new part. I am avoiding the £50 salvage parts and mindful of age and mileage (both myself and the car ) so I do not want to go over the top. Tinternet seems to run at between £200-£500 for a refurbished (or refurbish my own) with a 2 or 3 year parts warranty.

Can anyone suggest a good place to go for refurbishment/exchange (or alternatively who to avoid?).

I am currently in North Yorkshire but couriers are working so presumably can shop further afield.

With the current lock-down I can do without a rack for several days if the best deal is to send off and have my own refurbished.

Any thoughts guys?

Many thanks

Mike

[KennyW]

There's a company in Wakefield use by a member, I believe it is Steering Specialists LTD who can refurbish your rack or take your rack as part exchange and give you a recon'd rack.

I had to go to Glasgow Power steering to get mine and while I was there low and behold there was 60 plate C5 going to have the rack done. I spoke to mechanic who said they had done hundreds of these racks. He said the LP pipe should be replaced as well as if not fitted correct will start to leak from the pinion.

The choice is your but its worth looking at the links on this post.

Good luck

Kenny