drop links on C5 x7

[KennyW]

Hotw do you change the drop links ?

I started the job but realised the hydraulic strut is secured to the hub by the drop link top bolt and arm.

I had a look at the service citroen repair procedures but couldn't see anything obvious.

Kenny

[Stickyfinger]

Work depressurised via Lexia ?

Planning on this soon so would also be interested if I am wrong.

[GiveMeABreak]

I'll see if I can dig out the procedure for you - any good - or have you already got this Kenny?

[RichardW]

Doesn't seem to be anything about it Marc - in the removal of the cylinder procedure it just says remove the link!

[Stickyfinger]

Spoke to David H tonight, he just put his C6 on LOW and the pin knocked out OK......no problems with the strut.

[GiveMeABreak]

Doesn't seem to be anything about it Marc - in the removal of the cylinder procedure it just says remove the link!

So this is from the Removing - Refitting Front Pivot doc, - is it this or something else?

Anti Roll Bar Rod

and this:

Anti Roll Bar Rod2

[KennyW]

Marc, Alasdair and all,

That's all I found, so I was going to depressuise the system with Lexia but If David place his on low then knock it out. I'll try that first.

It will be the weekend before I start and I have a binding rear offside caliper to deal with as well.

Will give an update when done.

Kenny

[Stickyfinger]

I will do mine on low, on ramps and with the battery disconnected

Cuz I do stupid things

[KennyW]

Stupid is NOT learning from your mistakes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think everyone has done something when they have thought about later " HOW STUPID"

That's life.

Kenny

[KennyW]

Well, links replaced.

This is a easy job to do.

1. Drop suspension to low height
2.Take off LDS filler cap
3. Support on axle stand/s
4. Remove front wheel/s
5. Remove 24mm and 18mm nuts from drop link
6. Knock out bottom ball joint from anti roll bar.
7. Knock out large bolt and ball joint supporting hydraulic strut.
8. Fit new drop link in reverse of removal.

It took me an hour to remove and fit both front drop links.

Kenny

[Yuushi]

Well, links replaced.

This is a easy job to do.

1. Drop suspension to low height
2.Take off LDS filler cap
3. Support on axle stand/s
4. Remove front wheel/s
5. Remove 24mm and 18mm nuts from drop link
6. Knock out bottom ball joint from anti roll bar.
7. Knock out large bolt and ball joint supporting hydraulic strut.
8. Fit new drop link in reverse of removal.

It took me an hour to remove and fit both front drop links.

Kenny

Sorry for digging this post up, but to change the links like Kenny is saying, do I have to raise the suspension all the way up, put on the axle stands and then set it to low? Or all the way down first and jack it up like that? Doubt my jack could fit under the car like that
Replacing the links seems simple, my doubts are only on the procedure with the suspension..
Thanks if anyone can help me cheers!

[MattBLancs]

Just for future reference:

1. Suspension on high,
2. LDS cap loosened,
3. Jack up and axle stands under jacking points, wheels off.
4. Remove nuts from bolt ends of drop links,
Roll bar end decoupled (might need to push/pull the bar a touch by hand),
5. Tap out the upper ball joint rod - I used a half inch drive extension as Podger and make sure it "follows" the rod all the way out,
6. Tap the extension back out by driving the new link's rod through the assembly,
7. Couple up anti roll bar end and add the new Nyloc nuts to both.
8. Return to the ground, LDS cap retightened etc.


There's slight compression on the strut doing it this way - I believe it's due to strut being at full length and the rubber bushes of the wishbone hence being distorted from their natural position. But easily overcome and the extension acting as a Podger keeps things near enough aligned.

Optional step I don't recommend between 6. and 7. is to then realise you've fitted the wrong one to the wrong side and have to go back to step 5....

Matt

[MattBLancs]

To add further to this (having decoupled drop links again since I changed one) Podger isn't really required, it's tension on wishbone bushes only, so can be overcome.

Also to add for future reference: 24mm offset ring spanner or open ended required as you need to counterhold the threaded section through the nut - 6mm Allen key on mine. Same on anti roll bar end - 18mm open ended required to reach through with (edit: it's a smaller: 5mm) Allen key. Is M12 so may find replacement has 19mm rather than 18mm hex on the new Nyloc (or flange nut)

Matt