Xantia 'Clever Dicky' required

[fridgedoc]

Hi guys & girls
The old Xantia took ages to get started so in my great wisdom ..... it must be the glow plugs, cold weather bad stating ...........
errr no ............... I've changed the glow plugs no difference ......... so I'm in need of Clever Dicky ......

I turn ignition on light goes out, ignition off, back on again, light goes out, try to start car pumps pedal, no starty, ignition off then on, light goes out turn over and pump pedal after about 5 or 6 seconds trying to starty then yay starty deep breath and off we are going.
It takes like for ever to start, even thought it may have been fuel so pumped bulb to make sure fuel was up, no difference.

Any pointers gratefully received

[demag]

Do you always pump the pedal? You shouldn't have to, it should start without.

Sent from my Wileyfox Swift using Tapatalk

[Harlequin]

how quickly does the light go out? it could be the glow plug relay

[aerodynamica]

Hi Stephen, sorry to hear of your woes, well first question I have is that when it does eventually start do you get any big cloud of exhaust smoke?

Second thing : the light on the dash comes on and goes out (glowplugs) but it is possible that the plugs themselves are not 'glowing' , best to get a volt meter on the nearest glow plug top and earth to see if it's getting 12v in the first place. Could be a problem with the glow plug relay or its connector or earth point.

Have a check of that first to eliminate from the enquiry

[Hell Razor5543]

If the glow plugs are getting power you might want to test them. The best way is also possibly the most dangerous way to test them, as they will get very hot (if they work), so you do not want to touch them or have anything flammable nearby when you test them.

Remove the glow plugs, and secure put one into a vice. Using a decent car battery and heavy duty leads, hold the negative cable to the body of the glow plug, and the positive cable to the top threaded part of the glow plug. The TIP of the glow plug should heat up and glow. If it does not, or the glow happens further down the element from the tip, the glow plug is not working properly and needs to be replaced.

I recall when somebody had a Peugeot people carrier with starting problems and I suggested testing the glow plugs (after making sure to point out it could be dangerous). He went ahead, and found 3 out of the four plugs were faulty. He replaced the set, and the car started up properly after that.

[fridgedoc]

Thanks all, that will give me something to do, lol .......... the glow plugs are all new, I did cold test the old ones and they all were only an ohm or so so they seem all OK
Graeme M ... no black smoke on start up, going to be a bit of a bugger to check voltage at plug as I don't have anyone to assist, but I could check using the relay, if I knew where is was ! ..... is the block not the earth?
I'll report back soon'ish

[Gibbo2286]

Are you sure that the fuel isn't draining back to the tank and needing priming? Xantias do that often, I've fitted non return valves in the line at times to get around the problem.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Non-Return-Va ... 1519110751

[Hell Razor5543]

If the glow plugs are all new (and are the right ones for the engine!) that should rule them out as a cause of the problem.

[white exec]

If the glow plugs are all new (and are the right ones for the engine!) that should rule them out as a cause of the problem.

- but check that they are getting a supply.

[Hell Razor5543]

If the glow plugs are all new (and are the right ones for the engine!) that should rule them out as a cause of the problem.

- but check that they are getting a supply.

True.

[deian9]

Lets assume the plugs work (even if kind of). Before u start the car and with the glowplug light on, keep waiting a few second after the light goes out and listen to the relay switching off. Then try it.

Failing that give it another warm up with the glowplugs after the first warm up. If it starts better after the second warm up, make a note to give the plugs two cycles before starting it next time see if it helps.

Three more things I'd try is to check for a clean and secure connection at the plugs themselves, if i remember correctly the connection is is held on by a nut, check it's tight.

Also check how the battery handles itself when it needs to power the plugs.

Finally try priming diesel pressure by squeezing the rubber bulb a few times, if it feels empty after switching off then u may have a small leak somewhere. If it takes a while to prime or it feels like it's also sucking air, that could cause difficulties too.

[Stewart(oily)]

I would replace the injector leak off pipes, including the dead end one, a lump of pipe should be under a fiver, a pinhole here will give the symptoms you describe.

[CitroJim]

I would replace the injector leak off pipes, including the dead end one, a lump of pipe should be under a fiver, a pinhole here will give the symptoms you describe.

Absolutely yes... Those leakoff pipes should be replaced as a service item and the dead-end cap is often the biggest culprit. I never use them, I just use a short length of pipe doubled-back on itself and tied tightly with a couple of stout cable ties...

Many is the time I've seen 'proper' dead-ends split and leak very shortly after fitting...

[fridgedoc]

Lets assume the plugs work (even if kind of). Before u start the car and with the glowplug light on, keep waiting a few second after the light goes out and listen to the relay switching off. Then try it.

Failing that give it another warm up with the glowplugs after the first warm up. If it starts better after the second warm up, make a note to give the plugs two cycles before starting it next time see if it helps.

Three more things I'd try is to check for a clean and secure connection at the plugs themselves, if i remember correctly the connection is is held on by a nut, check it's tight.

Also check how the battery handles itself when it needs to power the plugs.

Finally try priming diesel pressure by squeezing the rubber bulb a few times, if it feels empty after switching off then u may have a small leak somewhere. If it takes a while to prime or it feels like it's also sucking air, that could cause difficulties too.

Did all of that at the start sadly no difference, thanks for your thoughts

[fridgedoc]

I would replace the injector leak off pipes, including the dead end one, a lump of pipe should be under a fiver, a pinhole here will give the symptoms you describe.

Absolutely yes... Those leakoff pipes should be replaced as a service item and the dead-end cap is often the biggest culprit. I never use them, I just use a short length of pipe doubled-back on itself and tied tightly with a couple of stout cable ties...

Many is the time I've seen 'proper' dead-ends split and leak very shortly after fitting...

Mmmmmm interesting there is a whiff on diesel, thanks