Activa no2 - SHE'S SLOWLY DYING !!!

[CitroJim]

Mike,

Fuse Box Diagrams

Engine Bay Physical

Engine Bay Schematic

Engine Bay Fuse List

Cabin Box Physical

Cabin Box Schematic

Cabin Box Fuse List

Scanner is ever-ready for the next lot of diagrams you may need Mike

[CitroJim]

How do i get at the back of the in car fusebox? There's a small red tab on the top whick looks like its a release, but how?

It is Mike but only when all the plugs are out of the back of it and the only way to do that is remove the dash. Best to work as far downwind of the fusebox as possible. If you find any circuits in there not being supplied then try to restore the supply well down the harness rather than trying to do it at the fusebox itself.

Mike, you'll soon be a specialist at this game the way you're going on!

[CitroJim]

+BB means it is fed direct from the battery Mike...

[CitroJim]

Mike, have you got the CPH wiring diagrams?

[CitroJim]

If you have the immobiliser Mike you have the relevant part of the CPH as well..

Little blue box above the CPH is the TrafficMaster ECU.

You'll also find a long, thin black box up there too. That's the transponder module..

[CitroJim]

According to BOL, just disconnect and module slides out ... unlikely eh!

Yep, that's basically it Mike although there is devil in the detail as always...

[CitroJim]

I do have small hands Mike as I'm a small person generally

Best to ask Northern_Mike as he's had one out very recently.

I have to confess I've only dealt with them with the dash out.

I do recall the electrical connector retainers are a bit tricky to undo as the retainers have to rise up over a pip (Intended to keep the retainer retained!) on the top of the connector shell.

[Northern_Mike]

Google "Xantia CPH removal" and the first item that appears is from the FCF and there's some excellent instructions by Addo. It's dead easy. I'd find them for you but the Internet is being rubbish here today

Enviado desde mi GT-I9505 usando Tapatalk

[Mandrake]

I've had the CPH out a few times now, it's not that difficult when you know how.

Remove the glove box and its in the top right. Its the box with a black and a yellow connector. You may have an additional box above that which is the traffic master. (Mine doesn't have a traffic master)

It's best to remove the plugs before trying to remove the CPH (although you don't really need to remove the CPH for what you're trying to do)

The yellow connector release tab is quite fiddly - you'll need a small flat blade screw driver or a protruding fingernail to release it.

If you're try to do continuity testing to the connector you'll need something very thin like a small needle to push into the connectors as one has very small pins - when I was trying to test allanmc's wiring I was initially using something larger like a paper clip but it was impossible to get a connection, and a bare multimeter probe is out of the question.

If you do want to remove the CPH remove the connectors first, then there are two plastic tabs near the front of the mounting base - push those tabs down then pull the ECU towards the back of the car. If you have a traffic master you'll have to unplug that too as they come out bolted together.

[Mandrake]

Any fuse should have the same voltage on both sides (within a small fraction of a volt) otherwise its blown! (assuming you're measuring through the top of the fuse with the fuse still in place)

[Mandrake]

Measuring each pin input with fuse out ....

Well, depending on the individual circuit design measuring the voltage of each pin in the fuse socket with the fuse removed isn't particularly useful.

You'll typically see 12v on one side (sometimes switched, sometimes permanent) and nothing on the other side. But if you don't it may still be normal for the circuit.

You're better off looking at the circuit diagrams and checking only the relevant fuses to begin with. If the immobiliser isn't unlocking I'd check power to the CPH and engine ECU at the (unplugged) ECU sockets first. (Sorry if you've already done this, I haven't read the whole thread)

[xantos]

Yep fuse25 should be the problem. If you check my readings it's 3v and 12v at fuse25. So you probably have a problem on the cable. Now you have to figure which cable and where... That should be fun! Check my previous post where I suggested which cable should be it...

Edit: Sorry my readings were 3v and 0v at fuse25. So not quite the same...

[CitroJim]

Mike, you'll see no volts on Fuse 9 until the immobiliser has unlocked the ECU. That's just one thing the immobiliser does - prevents the fuel pump from running...

[CitroJim]

Mike, you'll see no volts on Fuse 9 until the immobiliser has unlocked the ECU. That's just one thing the immobiliser does - prevents the fuel pump from running...

My S1 has no volts at fuse9 after accepting keypad code though??

Yep, that'll be right. Immediately on accepting a keypad code or an immobiliser unlock the pump runs briefly to pressurise the rail ready for an anticipated engine start attempt and then stops.

The pump will not then start again until the engine is running. This is for safety so the fuel pump cuts out when the engine is stopped.

Look at F9 again with the engine running Mike!

[CitroJim]

Mike, that's brilliant news Well done