Removing 2.0 TCT engine and other Activa thingies

[xantos]

Today's work. A bit of fiddling with the universal cuffs but managed to make it fit.

[xantos]

Today I've ligned up the marks on flywheel and engine block and this is the result and it doesn't look right to me.


I still haven't found out how to time the valves without the crank pulley, but refering to a timing with the crank pulley this looks about 90 degrees out of line... I wouldn't like to get the timing wrong when I start the car now would I?

[sparksie]

Hi xantos

Seems nobody knows and I'm afraid neither do I, but:-
If you can insert the locking pin in the flywheel and also the one in the cam pulley, you're probably ok.
Nowadays a lot of engines are timed about 90 deg away from TDC, so that you don't cause damage turning the cam. You can't hit the valves off a piston that's half way down the bore, unless you drop it of course

[xantos]

Well this is what I don't understand... If you observe the pictures below you will see where I have locked the flywheel and what kind of crank pulley is used for timing (hole for timing marked red). But it is miles out! I would expect that the position of the pin in the axis would be at the same angle no matter if using the flywheel lock or the crank pulley lock...

[Mandrake]

What's the type code for the 2.0 TCT engine ? (XU____ ?)

[xantos]

It's a RGX engine, 2.0 litre turbo, XU10J2TE/Z.

[Mandrake]

Are either of these of any use to you ? It's all I can find in Docbackup regarding cam belt timing:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/782 ... 20belt.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/782 ... timing.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[xantos]

Thank you. I just looked it quickly, but I think it's locking with pulley again. Will report when I look it more in detail...

[Mandrake]

Its a bit confusing trying to work out which way is up and down in your photos plus one is distorted, perhaps its worth taking some new photos of the side of the crank key the right way up, and also a photo of both the old and new crank pulley up the right way and in the same orientation as the block ?

I don't know the answer to the question but some less confusing pictures might jog someone else's memory.

Also if the "new" pulley is second hand the rubber block may have turned before you got it and may in fact be out of alignment, and the same could be true of your old pulley - did the old pulley lock off correctly in alignment before you stripped the engine down ? If so could you not use the old pulley to set the belt timing then put the new pulley on again after the belt is fitted ? (Or try to find a new pulley that lines up correctly)

[xantos]

My new pulley is new it's just not original Citroen. I had in on my car for about 6months (about 5000km) and I doubt it has sliped. Theold one was deteriorated so much it can be turned by hand. In the picture below is the new pulley and you can see the line-up is a bit out regardind the pulley in previous post.

[xantos]

Problem solved. I will borrow the right kind of pulley for timing.

Thanks for the support and help. Will certainly have some more questions!

[xantos]

And the engine is in! Now just to connect a million connectors and it will be ready to be awaken. Yipi!

[xantos]

The beast is awake!

After cranking the engine two times for 20 sec with the spark plugs removed it started in the first attempt. Boy was I HAPPY! There was a bit of smoke coming from the back of the engine, but as I suspected it was just some oil burning and it burnt away.

The engine is running quietly as I remember. Didn't push it to hard yet (not over 3000rpm) as I would like everything to settle down, before trying to push it a bit. Will drive it for about 2000km gently and on petrol only. Had some problems to wake the hydractive suspension, but after replacing the F8 fuse (which looked OK) electrovalves came on. The ride is better than ever! Or maybe I was just driving on springs for too long

Now for the problems...
I have a small leak between sump and block of the engine even though I used a new gasket. So need to remove the sump and use silicone seal instead of the gasket and hopefully it won't leak anymore.
The water cooler is leaking. It was leaking before, but just a few drops here and there. Now it's leaking quit heavily. New cooler is already at home.

And of course hydraulic suspension...
STOP light comes off immediately but it takes quite some time before the car lifts. Much more than it used too...

So maybe I have forgotten to connect something? Any ideas?

Back to square one on the suspension part...

And here is the finished product:

[lexi]

Well done!

[xantos]

Done about 700km and everything is working perfectly. Well at least the engine. Hydraulic suspension is in another dimension...
Didn't push it over 3000rpm and now I will start pushing it a bit... Well not over 4000rpm for about 1000km.

So far so good!