V6 Xantia......... the beginning of another adventure

[Trainman]

No, I've just checked myself and they're not working, I hate doing this from work..........

How many stations did you miss, posting them?

None, just crap IT.

[citroenxm]

No he has a KNOWN leak on the PAS return hose, on the back of the rack..

[KP]

If the button unit is the same as a mk2 td car with ac then I have one in the garage I think

[addo]

No he has a KNOWN leak on the PAS return hose, on the back of the rack..

Time to skin the return line tree and make your own octopus.

[Trainman]

Guys

All I'm trying to work out is this: could a complete novice like me replace the Briton sensor? And where is it? I know Jim said it's more or less under the header tank, from that I'm presuming that it's at the back of the engine, is there better access from the top or the bottom.

This is probably a really stupid question, but, can it just be disconnected? To make it drivable?

[CitroJim]

The bleeder on the thermostat housing does on ever dribble and only does so whent he thermostat is open in my experience..

Very much agree with you Mike about swapping thermostats..

Easy to test, hold the top hose and wait until it gets hot and the rad gets hot. It may take a while as the V6 when idling takes a long time to warm right up as there's a heck of a lot of water in the water jackets..

The top hose and rad will remain cold until the 'stat opens and then it'll suddenly get hot...

[addo]

You got autocorrected - it's not a Briton sensor!

Try stripping the top off, it all starts with removing your airbox.

Invest in a strip of Perspex mirror, 2" wide by 8" long that can be used with a torch to see around the engine back.

[Trainman]

The bleeder on the thermostat housing does on ever dribble and only does so whent he thermostat is open in my experience..

Very much agree with you Mike about swapping thermostats..

Easy to test, hold the top hose and wait until it gets hot and the rad gets hot. It may take a while as the V6 when idling takes a long time to warm right up as there's a heck of a lot of water in the water jackets..

The top hose and rad will remain cold until the 'stat opens and then it'll suddenly get hot...

Jim, that's not happening.

The top hose is getting hot and the radiator by the top hose gets hot, but the fans kick in and cool it down. The bottom hose remains cold. Having said that I've not tried that from cold, something to do tomorrow or maybe later if I get chance.

I've topped up the LHM and both lights are still there so that rules that out.

Adam, thanks for the tip about the mirror, SWMBO and I are out shopping this morning so I will have a look for one.

[addo]

I think my acrylic mirror strips came from a plastics supplier or picture framer. Much safer in the presence of hot manifolds, or if dropped!

[xantia_v6]

Guys

All I'm trying to work out is this: could a complete novice like me replace the Briton sensor? And where is it? I know Jim said it's more or less under the header tank, from that I'm presuming that it's at the back of the engine, is there better access from the top or the bottom.

This is probably a really stupid question, but, can it just be disconnected? To make it drivable?

Borrowing a quote from Jim on another thread:

There you are Roly, a picture of the offending sensor circled



The airbox will come off without removing any bracketry, just be careful of the inlet air temperature sensor..

You need a deep socket of the right size for the new sensor, and maybe a long screwdriver for pressing the clip on the connector.

If you disconnect the sensor, the fans will run continuously at full speed. That is OK, but you may as well just ignore the warning light (and watch the temperature gauge occasionally.

[Trainman]

That's brilliant, THANK YOU I will order one tomorrow and then I can do it, hopefully the dealer will have one in stock although I doubt it

[Trainman]

SHE LIVES

I read the complete thread that Xantia V6 (sorry don't know your name ) posted and thought to myself "I wonder............."

I disconnected the wires, sprayed them with Electrical Contact Cleaner, put them back on and fired her up (crosses fingers, toes and everything in between) I let her warm up, no fans, no warning lights. I rebuilt her and then took her for a test drive, we have a perfect stretch of dual carriageway by the house built for just that purpose

Anyway, still no lights on the dashboard, so it looks like it was a bad connection

[KP]

Excellent news Steve!

[CitroJim]

Steve, fantastic Excellent!

[Trainman]

Steve, fantastic Excellent!

Might have helped if I had spelt Bitron sensor instead of Briton Sensor when I was seaching



She's running a little warmer than normal, but nothing major, I'll check the water level before I leave work later, I'm presuming the level is a little low after bleeding her yesterday