Xantia rear brake calliper

[Taffyrhys]

Hi All (xantia HDI estate Y reg (203K)

I was changing the rear near side wheel yesterday and noticed the rear brake calliper bolt(lower) has sheared so i have the dreaded task of replacing it over the weekend, having read a few of the other posts it looks like a pain in the butt, ha ho it has to be done and I will tackle it this weekend.

However i have a few questions for those who have already carried out the task.
1. Can the calliper be moved out of the way while i remove the broken stub or do i have to remove the calliper?
2. If i remove the calliper the Haynes manual indicates i have to use a new seal for the union pipe? is this correct and what size seal should i use.
3. if the brake pipe break do i have to renew it the whole length back to the engine?

I have the 2 new M10 bolts on order from Citroen Hatfield for £4.75, I have also ordered some M10 HT bolts & nut from e bay just incase i have to drill the broken stub out as plan B.

Glad of any help, but i will keep you updated.

Cheers

Ade

[KennyW]

Hi there,

The calipers doesn't need to be removed but f you can and you don't break pipe. I would fit new seal 3.5mm. The stealers sell them and I think they were 96 p each (part no 96085784 I think)

The bolt is not as bad as you fear. With careful drilling and good sharp drills, no problem. But I would clean the surface between caliper and hub bracket for the (rusting) oxidisation.

Kenny

[Stewart(oily)]

hopefully there will be something to grip when you get the caliper off, buy a pipe seal from the dealer when you get the bolts, and if yours look rough a set of pads and a fitting kit. Take extra care removing the brake pipe, if it breaks it goes across the car to a connector but a careful man will take the time to get it apart intact, I have even done the job without removing the pipe at all, but you need to do the caliper work in mid air, I hung the caliper on a string to keep the weight off the pipe.
the broken bolt goes right through the arm, in the worst case drill right through and either re-tap it or use an over long bolt and squeeze a nut on the back, while you are in there clean the white powdery corrosion off the rear of the caliper, I made a visqueen gasket to keep the steel and alloy apart, when the big bolts are out theres not a lot holding the caliper together, keep it clean and dont lose the O ring when they go back together. easy

[Taffyrhys]

I was wondering what type of drill bits i should by to drill through the HT bolt stub? i was looking in screw fix but I'm a little clueless on HSS bit?

Any help will do?

Cheers

Ade

[myglaren]

Würth are very good but quite expensive.

[citroenxm]

As for the event of breaking the brake pipe, NO its not a pipr front to back, theres a K joint on the under side of the nearside subframe, the caliper pipes run to this K joint ...

Carefull removing the caliper pipe union, to watch for the pipe twisting with the union.. This happens a lot.. Try very carefull removing the other bolt first.. if it does come away, then you could split the caliper and then grip the union and twist the caliper to undo the union.

Seals are cheap, but in the event of not getting any, use a cross head screw driver and "Unscrew" carefully the seal out the caliper, cut the shreads off the seal and refit...

Sounds like a tricky job ahead, TAKE YOUR TIME, dont rush...

[KennyW]

Use Cobolt drills if you've got them otherwise HSS.

Kenny

[NewcastleFalcon]

Ade

The two little stubs with the nut welded on were the solution to my snapped rear caliper bolts.



You may have come across my struggles in this thread

Xantia-Rear Caliper Bolts Removal

The successful conclusion for me was getting a nut welded onto each of the stubs of the caliper bolts which snapped off

The heat helps with the removal although it would have been better with an electric welder as the oxy acetylene very rapidly turns the nut into liquid!

I rejected the drilling out approach, as there was still a useful stub to work with when the bolts snapped.

I am fairly confident I would not have been able to drill out with any degree of precision, or success with the equipment I had.

regards

Neil

[citronut]

if like a C5 i did a while ago, the problem is not any of the bolt left in the thread on the cast iron arm, as this will come out with just a bit of heat to the lug on the arm the bolt screws into,
the bit that really put up a fight was the full length of the bolt shank stuck fast in the caliper body,

ended up in the vice drifting this out, hefty blows with a lump hammer all the way, it was very very stuck, i belive due to a slight over dose of thread/bolt locking compound ,

as Paul say on the pipe and seal you do not often need a new one, but iof you do mind it is of the proper type, and not just any old bit of rubber you have lying around,

it would pay to purchase a pair of the caliper bolts just in case the other one shears off

[Stewart(oily)]

if like a C5 i did a while ago, the problem is not any of the bolt left in the thread on the cast iron arm, as this will come out with just a bit of heat to the lug on the arm the bolt screws into,
the bit that really put up a fight was the full length of the bolt shank stuck fast in the caliper body,

ended up in the vice drifting this out, hefty blows with a lump hammer all the way, it was very very stuck, i belive due to a slight over dose of thread/bolt locking compound ,

as Paul say on the pipe and seal you do not often need a new one, but iof you do mind it is of the proper type, and not just any old bit of rubber you have lying around,

it would pay to purchase a pair of the caliper bolts just in case the other one shears off

That threadlock turned an hours work into most of day +1 on having spare bolts.

[Taffyrhys]

Yes it was a bieetch to replace the sheared calliper bolt that took more than 4 hours and a few drill bits, however the disc cutter saved the day.

So i'm off to the pub for an crazy eight .

[Stewart(oily)]

Have you done the other side yet ???
And will you be slathering the new bolts in copper grease

[Ford Prefect]

Why copper grease?

In the southern parts of Sweden where the roads are salted during the so called "winter" - cooper grease combined with alloy calipers and supporting arms of steel will build up alloy oxid between the caliper and the supporting arm.

Haven't you the same problem in GB?

I always use metal free paste instead of copper grease.

Skickat från min HTC Desire X via Tapatalk 2

[Hell Razor5543]

The oxide already happens even without copper grease. When I sorted out the oxide I used normal grease on the bolts when I put them back on.

[Xantidote]

used normal grease on the bolts

High Melting Point grease?

I'd in any event probably use copperslip