Repairing split battery terminal ?

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Northern_Mike

Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by Northern_Mike »

This is the best picture I can find of it Simon.

Where the cable goes in is a grippy hole/clamp affair with two bolts that tighten it down. It clamps round the battery using the conventional way at the other end of the clamp assembly.

Image

Does that shed any light? It's the best pic I've got I'm afraid. I did this in the dark back in December 2011!

Just for amusement, I found a new use for Adriana's bedside light...

Image

Mike
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Mandrake
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Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by Mandrake »

Just looking at halfords, this is the negative post version of the clamp you used Mike ?

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... ryId_25520" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I don't really fancy having the two extra screw locations if I'm not going to be using them, so do you think this one would be equally as good ? It appears to be the same thing but without the extra two small wire bolting locations:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255205" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Should make for a neater looking job. Assuming its ok I'd get the positive one as well. Not quite sure what they're referring to when they say the first one is "2 way" and the second one "4 way" though ? Are the main clamps where the wires go in a bit different ?
Simon

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addo
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Unread post by addo »

At this stage, I'd put conductivity ahead of neatness - make sure it's brass.

Also I found the array of extra leads on the positive terminal, a chore with a "single orifice" type clamp.
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Mandrake
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Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by Mandrake »

It doesn't say what its made of but it doesn't look like lead...

The negative only has two cables going into the clamp, the positive I thought only had two cables as well, one to the starter and one to the fuse box but I need to double check.
Simon

2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1978 CX 2400
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
citronut
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Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by citronut »

Mandrake wrote:Just looking at halfords, this is the negative post version of the clamp you used Mike ?

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... ryId_25520" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I don't really fancy having the two extra screw locations if I'm not going to be using them, so do you think this one would be equally as good ? It appears to be the same thing but without the extra two small wire bolting locations:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255205" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Should make for a neater looking job. Assuming its ok I'd get the positive one as well. Not quite sure what they're referring to when they say the first one is "2 way" and the second one "4 way" though ? Are the main clamps where the wires go in a bit different ?
but Simon the second one is a quid more expensive :shock: :twisted: :-D :wink:
Regards, malcolm.

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Mandrake
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Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by Mandrake »

Perhaps they have the 2 way and 4 way descriptions mixed up ? Surely the one with the two extra small terminals is really the "4 way" one ?
Simon

2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1978 CX 2400
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
Rhothgar
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Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by Rhothgar »

:-{{
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Mandrake
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Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by Mandrake »

superloopy wrote:
addo wrote:
Also I found the array of extra leads on the positive terminal, a chore with a "single orifice" type clamp.
I agree.

It's a complete pita trying to squeeze more than one cable into any of these so-called replacement clamps. Give me those extra terminals any day.

Simon ... my v6 has one of those two way positive connectors fitted and it's useless, very little in the way of providing a good, solid connection. Mind you it mightn't be the same one but looks similar. I'd be choosing the 4way if only to future proof you if you need more circuits.
I had another look at my terminals - the negative only has two cables and should work fine without the extra two screw terminals but the positive has four cables going into the terminal, so for the positive I think I'll get the one with the two extra screw terminals...
Simon

2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1978 CX 2400
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
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Skull
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Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by Skull »

Good thread =D> well done all posters

I had a similar problem on my positive terminal £120 + VAT for a new lead [-X

Fixed it for free with an old terminal I had laying around - I mean secured for future use :^o .... I KNEW that would come in handy some day 8-)

Similar to Xac's method but with the old eye outside the new clamp as mentioned with a longer bolt to accomodate.

Many thanks
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Gary
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Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by Deanxm »

Just cut the old one off, its only lead and will cut open easily, get rid of it and put a brass clamp type on the original cable.

D
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Skull
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Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by Skull »

Deanxm

The problem with the positive terminal is there's about 4 wires (2 to the fuse box + alternator + starter) into it making it quite chunky and I'm not sure you would be able to attach a new terminal to them all.
My 4th Citroën Xantia (X2 HDi (110))
My 5th Citroën sAXo Memphis Mk II

Xantia x3 (2.0i TCT Activa)(2.1 TD SX)(1.9 TD Estate)
Xsara HDi VTR Coupe / Saxo 1.1i / BX 1.9 d / 4 x AX's (1.1i / 1.4D / 1.5D)

Gary
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Re: Repairing split battery terminal ?

Unread post by oscar »

there is a post up in a sticky re these.
If you look at that link posted up theres a block you can get that has many holes for wires or you can get a block like that then have one main wire back to pos terminal.
check the wire out from terminal as gets hard and cracks.
Chop terminal off with pair of side cutters etc and if you have a captive plumber? tin end of wires with solder so need torch to heat up slide some heat shrink up cable before attaching clamps decide on size of heat shrink you need as can use more than one piece to fit over bare parts if using a non normal terminal plus cover bare wires.then you have a nice firm piece of wire to work with. what i dd was chop of then use a piece of 16mm copper pipe slide wires inside then do the screws up so squeeze pipe onto wires so like a crimp.
Once you have get terminal on end of cable slide heat shrink down(cable size)shrink then larger piece if your using over that onto terminal etc then shrink that so lessen shorting risk.