Rear LHM leak

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c.morewood
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Re: Rear LHM leak update

Post by c.morewood »

Thanks for those links Neil... As you say very useful.. But unfortunately all too true.
I thought I'd start on the job this morning and see just how far I got.. then maybe I'd know what to order tomorrow morning.
The first task was to lift her off the floor, where she'd sunk after all the LHM poured out of her after I replaced the seal yesterday.
I never knew she could sink so low!!
Fortunately since I'd left the jack in situ, there was just enough room to get a hydraulic jack under her.
Having got her steady on the axle stands, jacks and one ramp and then took the wheel off. I proceeded with what I thought was going to be the difficult job of removing the sphere, the flow pipe and R clip.... All of these turned out to be easy to remove. (No new pipe needed) But then I came to the dreaded spring clip, which Neil was talking about above. I'd previously soaked it in Plusgas several times, but just couldn't get it to move. Its in such a pig of a place that's its impossible to get to. I even tried removing the car ramp from the opposite side to allow the arm to settle downwards but nothing would work.
Having struggled now for a couple of hours in the freezing garage I'm in to warm up, have a cup of tea and go and try Neil's method of grinding down the punch with the impact driver.
I'm not too hopeful though...
One more thing Neil. From one of your pics it looks like the cup through which the pin passes is held on to the arm with a nut, as far as I can see, mine is welded in place. That was going to be my last resort, to try to knock off the cup and then get it welded back on again.
Keep the advice coming....

Chris

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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by Xantidote »

Well, FWIW, I think you are doing well, especially having managed to undo the feed pipe. A few cups of tea, and a little Percywotsit, and you'll be there :)

c.morewood
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by c.morewood »

Not so easy Martin....We struggled with that little pin for over 2 hours.. I tried grinding down a nail punch.(as recommended by Neil) that got it moving ... about 2mm.. till the nail punch bent and broke. Then tried a masonary nail inside the head of the socket.. that worked for another few mm then finally hacked off the end of a 3mm allen key and used that inside the socket and the last couple of mm popped out.. just at 1430 enabling me to go and watch the GP.
However, just when I thought all the hard work was done... I can't get the cylinder to pop out of the cup is was being held in by the pin.
I've tried all sorts of big adjustables .. but can't get the thing to budge the rubber just turns.Its not clear if the rubber boot extends all the way back to the end of the cup or will it slip off to allow access to the metal underneath???
I was hoping to save the rubber but I can see I'm going to have to cut it off and go metal to metal to try to remove the bit from the cup... Unless anyone here knows another way?????


And I found out why it started leaking in the first place... the face of the cylinder, where it meets the sphere and seal was so corroded that there was no aluminium outside the rubber seal in places.. I'll upload a pic tomorrow.

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NewcastleFalcon
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by NewcastleFalcon »

Chris
Image

If you have removed the pin completely all that is holding the cup into the "hole" in the radius arm is corrosion. Certainly on my vintage of Xantia there is nothing else retaining the cup in the arm other than a tight fit once the pin is out.

I didnt manage to preserve the rubber gaiters intact, but new ones are not that expensive.

My method was to grasp the rim of the metal cup with mole grips. It should turn in the hole so give it a bit rotation first.
A good deal of force can be applied by hammering in a screwdriver between the radius arm and the mole grips, and the cup should pop out.

A good dose of plus gas beforehand should assist.

regards

Neil

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NewcastleFalcon
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by NewcastleFalcon »

Chris,

Here is a picture of my original impossible to seal rear strut.

Image

In the end I replaced it with a better strut from my old "spares" xantia which I dismantled.

regards

Neil

c.morewood
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by c.morewood »

Castellated edges just like mine.. only mine went a bit deeper so that there was next to no metal on the outside of the seal.

Many thanks for the advice Neil.. We'll see what happens tomorrow!!


Chris

citronut
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by citronut »

you should be able to pull/slide the boot off of the cup, once its clear i use a small cole chizel in between the seat of the cup and the arm,

usually takes a few bash's as they get rusted into the arm, they are not threaded in, just a push fit

c.morewood
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by c.morewood »

Success ... at last..the last bit was a B...R though.. I had to use lot of heat to get the cup out.. couldn't get any rotation on it at all.. I even tried my huge plumbing adjuster.
Thank you so much all of you with all your help. I would 've been lost without it.
I hope this thread is as useful to others..
And if anyone needs the cylinder retaining spring 527209 I'll have 9 spare on Thursday!!
Thanks again,

Chris
PPS incidentally I came across this site when looking for bits Genuine parts from Dealers but a big discount http://www.partsreunited.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

RichardW
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by RichardW »

Sort of related to this, so thought I'd tack it on here....

I may have to do a rear arm bearing for MOT. BOL says removal of the strut compeletly required - is this the case? I can see from this thread that the front end clip needs to be removed and the strut freed from the arm, but does the other end need to come out? What about the ABS sensor, presumably best to leave it in place and struggle with the plug and cable instead?

citronut
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by citronut »

no need to fully remove the ram/strut ( thats book of lies OCKS :o :-D :wink: ), just make sure its fully depressurised so the piston and rod can be pushed all the way back into the cylinder,

and yes its best to struggle with ABS plug rather than destroy the sensor in trying to remove it

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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by RichardW »

Cheers Malcolm - I suspect there are lots of 'justs' in this job that entail hours of swearing and bashing! Do you know of a supplier for a kit for an Estate? When I jacked it up to do the strut feed pipe the other week there were some ominous knocking / clonking noises from the NS, which leads me to think the bearing is away, but I don't really have another symptoms. Oh, well, MOT week on Friday, we'll see what he says..... [-o<

citronut
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by citronut »

i think GSF still do the kits,
not usually too bad a job, the only bashing usually required is the push rod cup and the outer bearing race's,

you now to run two short beads of mig at opposite sides of both the outer race's im sure

RichardW
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by RichardW »

GSF do indeed still do it Malcolm - costs nearly £50 though!

citronut
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by citronut »

they have gone up in price a lot then,
be careful of the cheapo non branded kits on ebay,

aep show them in a gooogly search cheaper than GSF, dont know the quality of there's though

http://www.aepdirect.com/rear-arm-beari ... ory_id=754" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

citronut
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Re: Rear LHM leak

Post by citronut »

i havent calculated it yet but it might work out cheaper to buy all apart from the bearings from citroen, then get the bearing separately from GSF,

maybe not though

Part Number Description Quantity Price excl. VAT Price incl. VAT Total incl. VAT Selection
0000513321 REAR SUSPENSION ARM SEAL 3.70 GBP 4.44 GBP 8.88 GBP

26207049 SUSPENSION ARM BEARING 25.84 GBP 31.01 GBP 62.02 GBP

0000513252 REAR SUSPENSION SPACER 7.83 GBP 9.40 GBP 9.40 GBP

0000513320 SUSPENSION ARM BEARING BUSH 2.32 GBP 2.78 GBP 5.56 GBP