I take it this car has Air Con?

[romie]

hmm, says nothing regarding alignment?

[KennyW]

Hi Romie,

I think your pump's a delphi because of the pictures you posted earlier from the top as the Sanden would have the pag oil filler plug ontop.

Kenny

PS Xac or Jim I think the Delphi tech link might be handy would it be worth putting onto handy hints and tips link.

[Xaccers]

hey, I've not been able to check the pulley plate yet, (lots of rushing around this morning including going back to Citroën and picking up some sphere seals for when I need to remove the front right hand sphere to do the belts... over £6 for two seals!?).

Now I'm confused, why are you removing the sphere to do the belts???

As for the alignment, it is most likely to be off due to the manual tensioner needing to be replaced.


Kenny, good idea about the link!

[addo]

To align the hydraulic pump with belt off, you loosen the two fixings - one nut, one bolt. Then carefully jiggle the pump outboard or inboard as required, check and retighten. The bolts are in expanding sleeves rather like a Dynabolt, that fixes them wherever you stop movement.

[KennyW]

Adam,

You may have solved a problem i have with the HP pump it is one rib out with the belt

Will give a jiggle and see what happens

Kenny

[romie]

hey, I've not been able to check the pulley plate yet, (lots of rushing around this morning including going back to Citroën and picking up some sphere seals for when I need to remove the front right hand sphere to do the belts... over £6 for two seals!?).

Now I'm confused, why are you removing the sphere to do the belts???

As for the alignment, it is most likely to be off due to the manual tensioner needing to be replaced.


Kenny, good idea about the link!

says so in the Haynes manual :/



hmm?

[jgra1]

ahh I see Romie, that's haynes way of being able to lock the crank so you can get the nut undone on the pulley side of engine..

you may want to try the starter motor automated method instead

I have not tried it, but you want a decent breaker bar and socket on the nut, then rotate engine till bar is resting on the ground somwhere under the compressor..

then flick the key briefly

others will check this description..

[Chris570]

ahh I see Romie, that's haynes way of being able to lock the crank so you can get the nut undone on the pulley side of engine..

you may want to try the starter motor automated method instead

I have not tried it, but you want a decent breaker bar and socket on the nut, then rotate engine till bar is resting on the ground somwhere under the compressor..

then flick the key briefly

others will check this description..

making sure of course that the engine can't start

[romie]

So I don't need to take the sphere off at all?

Fantastic!

I didn't like the idea of disturbing that when there was nothing wrong with it.

I could see that turning into another project in it's own right

[jgra1]

good thinking Chris

[romie]

... Right-o.

Three cuts on hand, one on head, (from crowbar).
One big argument with 11mm bolt hiding between the top timing belt cover and the turbo feed inlet pipe and fuel line.
Lots of swearing over the total lack of room to do anything in the engine bay...

... and both belts and the alternator is changed.

Didn't undo the crank shaft pulley bolt by turning over the engine in the end. There was a bolt in the flywheel just visible enough that a screwdriver could be wedged in, holding the flywheel and therefore allowed the bolt removal.


Thanks to everyone for your invaluable information and thoughts - greatly appreciated!!


Follow-up:

The timing belt WAS running bang on the edge of the injection pump sprocket, but now there's a few millimetres that overhang

There were manual belt tensioners on both belts.

Both tensioners bearings seemed fine with no play.

Thanks Xac for the heads-up

Cam belt - Is it on the edge of the pump sprocket or does it actually overhang? If it overhangs, get those tensioners and water pump replaced ASAP and get a cover for it! If it doesn't overhang, get a cover for it!!!!!

Aux belt - I can't see from the pic if you've got the auto tensioner or the earlier manual one. If it's the auto (ie has a spring behind the hydraulic pump) you need to replace the tensioner and the spring.

Fuel pump - see that plunger that goes to the trottle arm? Remove it.

I presume there is going to be more tension on the new belt and so pulling something inwards and so therefore causing the belt to ride off the injection pump sprocket.

Is it always the water pump and tensioner that causes this problem or can this be adjusted somehow? Angling one of the parts back 'outwards'?

Cheers, Romie

[Xaccers]

Water pump needs replacing as otherwise you may need to do the whole thing again in a month or two, they tend to start leaking after a belt change.
If the tensioner and/or jockey wheel of the cam belt are in need of replacing they can cause the belt to ride off.
It is best to replace them, however unlike the water pump the tensioner and jockey can often last until the next belt change depending on what state they are in.

[Xantidote]

Not sure I like the idea of the cambelt running a bit off/overhanging the injection pump, though I've not the experience to point you in the right direction as to the cause.

I'd guess it's going to put extra load on the width of cambelt that is engaging with the sprocket, so could lead to earlier failure?

[romie]

Right-o

Many thanks!!