First to go-the gearbox/clutch/diff.
When it originally came off the road, the manual pull-type clutch had been adjusted as far as the cable would allow, and it did give me 10,000 extra miles before the clutch slip wouldn't allow the car to move, it was December, and not a good time for replacing the clutch.
First step was getting this bit off. I am glad the engine was out
, the retaining pin and spring had to be pulled out as it happened but after a fair struggle and a bit of unavoidable mole grip scuffing to the pin. As far as I could work out the pin couldn't be punched out the movement of the arm and the transmission housing didn't allow it.After the pin was eventually wiggled out, I had to throw the full arsenal I had available to lever off the arm from the rod ie pickaxe blade and long cold chisels to lever off the reluctant arm. Again this would have been a nightmare with the engine in situ.
Not sure what I am going to find when I take the gearbox/clutch housing off. Is the original problem of the clutch slip going to have been caused by a worn driven plate or something not quite right with the release mechanism? Adjustment of the cable did cure the slip temporarily ( or 10,000 miles of temporary relief I should say).
Just for the benefit of others who may start off on a clutch job sometimes the simple instruction of "tap out the retaining pin....and remove the clutch release lever from the top of the release fork shaft" can take ages, a couple of pick axe blades as levers and a fair amount of frustration.
Neil
)
