Berlingo van running hot

ayjay · Unread post by **ayjay** » 17 May 2011, 18:06

My Berlingo van is running a bit hotter than usual, this is almost certainly because the fans are not coming on when they should.

I've done a bit of searching on here and seen the advice to disconnect the relays to test the fans but I'm not sure if I'm trying the correct things.

The pic below is what I think may be the relays and may be on top of the thermostat, I tried disconnecting them one at a time and both together but the fans don't run.

Have I tried the correct item?

Is there a quick and simple temporary fix to get the fans running?

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 17 May 2011, 18:09

Dont overlook the obvious : the fuses

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 17 May 2011, 19:09

Agree on fuses, inspect engine bay fuse box.

Do you have AirCon ? , if you do not look at the top of the radiator for a conventional fan switch (some variants have a switch here assuming no AC) , you`ll either see a switch or a blanking plug, it should be near the top hose area you cannot miss it.

ayjay · Unread post by **ayjay** » 17 May 2011, 20:38

I'd already checked the fuses - and they seem OK - there is no Aircon - there is some sort of connector (very similar to the ones in the first pic) attached to the rad immediately below where the top hose joins the rad - is this the right place to short across to get the fans running?

There is also something at the back of the header tank on the rad - what does this bit do? I'm assuming that it is more likely to be a low fluid level indicator- pic below.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 17 May 2011, 20:47

Yes, that's the low fluid level sensor.

The fan switch, if it is in the rad, will be a circular device about an inch in diamater that screws directly into the rad near the top on one side or the other.

It will have a largish three-pin plug on it.

What engine do you have fitted? I can't immediately recognise it from the pictures.

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 17 May 2011, 20:47

The connector in the picture is the low water level warning sensor in the bottle.

I'd need to see a picture of it (Google for "206 1.9D radiator" or "206 1.9 D fan switch" as they are the same if you cannot find a pic) and link to it.

If it has one its right next to the top hose in the radiator usually. Probably three wires on a diesel (petrol have two wires)

Joining two of them brings the fan on at low speed, switching one wire brings them on at full. Shorting them can blow the fuse though depending on how its wired.

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 17 May 2011, 20:48

CitroJim wrote:What engine do you have fitted? I can't immediately recognise it from the pictures.

DW8 Jim

, that's the only one with that type of oval fuel filter.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 17 May 2011, 20:54

spider wrote: DW8 Jim , that's the only one with that type of oval fuel filter.

Thanks Andy

Funny, I was only looking at a Despatch with the DW8 last week but was more interested in its rumbly gearbox. After just having swapped and stripped one rumbly BE3 I was not keen to immediately take on another

I asked what engine it as if it was an HDi then the fans would be under engine ECU control.

Being a DW8 things will be simpler

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 17 May 2011, 21:43

The DW8 has a 2 fan setup, with the Xantia style control of the fans : the dreaded triangular relaybox between the fans and the electronic box to convert the temperature signal from the ECU.

Common problems are burned out power connections in the relay sockets and bad chassis earth connection.
Fan motors are known to wear out leaving the fans dead.
You wont notice that one fan is failing, until the other fan is also failing, as then you finally get an overheated engine.

It is possible then that both fan motors have failed.

ayjay · Unread post by **ayjay** » 17 May 2011, 22:12

OK, thanks so far, I'm slowly getting there (much quicker now with your help), it's obviously as you've said a DW8 - a new number for me - it's a 1.9 non turbo diesel - 2001 I think - but X reg anyway - the fan switch has a three pin plug - it does have the triangular relay box between the fans but only one relay in there not two like most pics I've seen on here.

I guess I first need to find out if the fan motors still work, is there any way to tell which wires to join up to bypass the switch and check the fans?

Is the fan switch more likely to be the culprit?

Any ideas or theories welcome.

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 18 May 2011, 11:21

Disclaimer: This is not the official way but I've use this method. It is a bit of guesswork though given the wiring.

Remove the relay(s) and examine them for corrosion and their sockets too. If they look OK put them back for now.

If you can see the fans, get a large screwdriver (do not use fingers) and try to move the blades to ensure they are not seized.

Caution: The fans are NOT ignition controlled and fans + fingers =

, some models can bring the fans on (usually three relay models) if you unplug one as it detects this as "overheating"

Assuming they look OK examine fuses in engine bay fusebox.

Now, I'm not 100% sure which way they are wired but unplug the fan switch and check to see which of the three feeds are live.

If its only got one live feed and its pin 1 or 3: Bridge this (only for a second or two) to the middle, not the other end.

If its only got one live feed and its the middle: Bridge to either end (not both) for a second or two.

Listen for clicks too from the relays as well as the fans may work.

There's a risk of popping a fuse doing this but that is usually not a great issue.

ayjay · Unread post by **ayjay** » 18 May 2011, 21:20

Thanks Andy, I'll have a play at the weekend.

ayjay · Unread post by **ayjay** » 20 May 2011, 14:38

ayjay wrote:Thanks Andy, I'll have a play at the weekend.

I couldn't wait; so had a play today.

Just to correct a bit of misinformation from before - looking in daylight it is only a two pin connection on the rad fan switch - (the third pin is not wired)

Joining the two wires with the connector off the switch makes the fans burst into life, I guess this is pretty conclusive that it is this switch at fault.

To replace this will obviously involve the loss of some coolant, are there any issues to be aware of when refilling - I'm thinking of airlocks more than anything else, or is it pretty straightforward?

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 20 May 2011, 14:58

Just a quick bleed of air out of the coolant system.

Tip1: Remove expansion tank cap to release pressure (engine cold!) then refit it. This although not air tight in that respect will prevent coolant pouring out. The 'remove then refit' is just to remove any pressure.

If you are very quick and have the new switch ready you may be OK as its at the top of the rad but it would be sensible to open the bleed valves* anyway for a little bit.

*I'm not 100% sure where they are on the DW8, look on the heater hoses, top of the radiator and one in a pipe on the thermostat housing.

Tip2: The seal between the switch and the radiator, if the new switch does not come with a new seal, turn it around so 'in' faces 'out' as its less likely to leak. But use the new seal if it comes with one.

ayjay · Unread post by **ayjay** » 20 May 2011, 20:54

Many thanks again for your help Andy.

I got a pleasant surprise when I ordered the part this afternoon from my local parts place - less than £8.00 plus vat - looks like this could be one of my cheaper repairs.