I think my 1.9TD Xantia Esate is running slightly cool.
Just wondered what everyone elses runs at in normal working conditions.
Paul
Xantia 1.9TD running temp
Moderator: RichardW
Just replaced the thermostat in my Xantia 1.9 TD air-con. It wasn't rising above 65 degrees. With the new thermostat it now sits at about 76 - 78 degrees. Had the car a year now and that is the highest its been in a long time. I'm not sure its meant to go much higher as the mid pint on the guage is 80.
Mark
Mark
I think the optimum engine operating temperature is 80 deg C. Below that, the engine is not running efficiently, fuel consumption goes up. Running above 80 is still OK, but rubber and plastic parts might not last too long overheated. There are different temperature thermostats available. Initially I had a 89, now changed to 83.
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Most standard engines runs at just about 90 - or slightly under - as normal working temperature.
Reaching up to just above 90 on load - or missing speedflow thru the rad (traffic stops).
As pr nature out of production line costs - any temp gauges fitted in cars can not be super accurate - and are prone to detoriate by aging (the sensor element).
It's worth trying the factual engine temperature with a known good accurate external gauge - before digging in to expensive replacements & repairs. The sensor element of such external instrument should be covered by insulation - to prevent false readings - and the temperature should be probed on cylinder head surface in vicinity of the thermostat housing.
A common & simple coolant thermostat check is to use your hand on the large top hose into the rad (or nearby rad surface). Starting the engine from cold - this hose should stay cold for long (depending on outdoors temp) - and then suddenly the temp should raise untill you have to remove your hand.
This indicates the thermostat stays closed untill engine has reached normal work temp and needs cold coolant to stabilise the temp.
If the temp on radiator top hose is felt to continously raise in temp slowly for ages - then the thermostat is defective - not closing at cold engine.
While doing this test anyway - then observe that the rad fan cut's in some time after the rad is hot - indicating the fan circuit is working.
It's so depressing annoying to find a rad fan circuit NOT functioning - on first day of a summer holiday trip [:(]
Reaching up to just above 90 on load - or missing speedflow thru the rad (traffic stops).
As pr nature out of production line costs - any temp gauges fitted in cars can not be super accurate - and are prone to detoriate by aging (the sensor element).
It's worth trying the factual engine temperature with a known good accurate external gauge - before digging in to expensive replacements & repairs. The sensor element of such external instrument should be covered by insulation - to prevent false readings - and the temperature should be probed on cylinder head surface in vicinity of the thermostat housing.
A common & simple coolant thermostat check is to use your hand on the large top hose into the rad (or nearby rad surface). Starting the engine from cold - this hose should stay cold for long (depending on outdoors temp) - and then suddenly the temp should raise untill you have to remove your hand.
This indicates the thermostat stays closed untill engine has reached normal work temp and needs cold coolant to stabilise the temp.
If the temp on radiator top hose is felt to continously raise in temp slowly for ages - then the thermostat is defective - not closing at cold engine.
While doing this test anyway - then observe that the rad fan cut's in some time after the rad is hot - indicating the fan circuit is working.
It's so depressing annoying to find a rad fan circuit NOT functioning - on first day of a summer holiday trip [:(]