XM driver's window anoyance

nino1 · Unread post by **nino1** » 18 May 2006, 16:18

Hi, it started as a work-dont't-work but after a few days turned into no operation for the drivers window switch (the one with the 4 buttons)
It did on accasion when i pressed up-full go up in increments rather than all the way. I noticed there is a bulb in this one (can't remember if it worked before) that is not illuminated.
Took out the switch giggled and contact spayed the two ends but no luck.
The haynes manual states both front side windows share the same fuse i discarded this problem as the passangers window is working fine.

Where would i be looking for the prob next?
What are the easiest checkpoints short of declaring the motor is gone.

Tnx.

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 18 May 2006, 17:13

The control relay lurking behind the driver's door trim area is the most likely suspect, followed by the actual one touch switch on the driver's door - then you're looking at possibly flexed wires in the door jam loom - [it does still happen on the Xm].

Doesn't sound as though you've got the duff plastic guide on the glass syndrome just yet if it's totally dead...

Andrew

rowanmoor · Unread post by **rowanmoor** » 19 May 2006, 13:12

I recently had a very similar problem. It would go up part way and stop. It turned out to the the switch - it had started disintegrating inside. The reason it would go part way was that you would press the 'auto-up' button, and then another button would give a 'blip' afterwards making the controler stop the window. I too had noticed the bulbs stop working in it.

Mine was fixed with a new switch (about £30 from Citroen!).

You could probably try a multimeter on the switch to get an idea if it is doing odd things or not (I expect one of the other buttons is jamming on if it is the switch). Do the other buttons work at all?

davetd · Unread post by **davetd** » 19 May 2006, 22:10

You'd be better going to a scrap yard and buying a handful of switches to try for next to nothing rather than buying new

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 19 May 2006, 22:32

Great idea!

Mind, when did you last see an Xm ANYWHERE, let alone in a breakers!?

The last one's around are being pushed out for peanuts on ebay and mostly these appear to be being run into the ground as bangers - and the nice one's are being scrapped for their turbo engine to power a boy racer's Peugeot 106 that likely isn't insured etc...

...when they're gone, they're gone!!

Andrew

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 20 May 2006, 09:52

I saw ten in France this week! and dozens of BXs.
Back to the plot. The switch is the most likely problem and they sometimes dont respond to an application of WD 40. You can dismantle them and clean the contacts but its a fiddly job and you are likely to loose something. There are a number of XMs being broken on ebay, I would have thought that would have been your easiest course.

Robin · Unread post by **Robin** » 20 May 2006, 14:56

I agree that is most likely the switch but there are two versions. They look very similar but they do not function the same and use differing registers on the connectors to prevent your connecting the wrong switch.
Good luck with the hunting. Robin.

nino1 · Unread post by **nino1** » 20 May 2006, 15:52

Now, what would be the clever way to test it?
Surely i can shot some contacts (which?) to see if i get operation.

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 20 May 2006, 16:54

If you can get a circuit diagram you can but its a bit complicated - and I'm a TV engineer!

nino1 · Unread post by **nino1** » 20 May 2006, 19:12

Woah, i thought it was simple.

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 20 May 2006, 19:42

Might be worth visiting the XM specialists :
http://club-xm.com/forum2/index.php?act=idx

Norrie (noz) and his gang certainly knows the ins & outs of their XM's - and may provide a prompt answer - even a schematic

nino1 · Unread post by **nino1** » 21 May 2006, 18:26

Peter.N. they claim it to be simple.
There are 6 contacts. 5 being earth and 2 closing it for the bulb.
5 and the rest should make it perform.
However no luck i get the 12v but shorting it did nothing.

nino1 · Unread post by **nino1** » 22 May 2006, 11:29

Ok, it seems its a contact behind the trim since when cramming the longish wires back into the switch cavity this morning i suddeny worked again before i drove some on the bumpy road.
How do i go about removing the door trim?

rowanmoor · Unread post by **rowanmoor** » 22 May 2006, 13:31

davetd wrote:You'd be better going to a scrap yard and buying a handful of switches to try for next to nothing rather than buying new

If you know of a scrap yard anywhere in our part of the country with an XM then let me know.

Last time I tried to find anything I heard a rumour of one on the coast somewhere - but it is not worth me driving 30 miles for something like a switch that has a good chance of being fairly dead too.

The online scrap searches sometimes find XM parts if you are lucky - but courier can be costly if it can only be found in Scotland.

wrinklet1 · Unread post by **wrinklet1** » 22 May 2006, 14:02

Hi, This problem seems to me to be a broken supply wire. Most likely where it comes from the A post into the door.

Paul