Because the pins are worn down. That was my first impression.
But now I got your message and see the cap contacts are indeed moulded offset into the cap body. This means you either have angled studs or bushes at the offset contacts which still looks bright new.
It seems then that any problem may be from the fact that you have burnt areas in the cap body before and after the (in pic's) lower contact pins. These areas may well be carbon plated and upsetting the distribution of the spark.
Looks like there has been contact between the rotor arm and the plastic at some point, probably got some lift in the distributor shaft but other than that it looks about normal to me.
Hunting at idle and rough running. Plugs are all OK, air flow meter changed for a known good one, throttle body changed, air filter and leads all good too.
With that amount of deposits inside the cap, no wonder it's hunting and missing. Give it a good clean up first before buying a new one, I've saved loads of caps that way.
Mark.
Previous convictions for ferret and giraffe rustling.
Doesnt look too bad, I did thousands of miles in my 16v with the cap looking similar with no problems! http://www.bx16v.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 3773b6ae5a
However, for £14 you may as well try it. They are serviceble items at the end of the day!
TIM
1986 2CV6 Dolly
1976 AKS 400 Sidewinder
2003 Xsara VTS
Oops, this will of course be direct drive on the end of the camshaft, I was thinking a bit too old school.
Give the cap a good scrub out and see if symptoms persist, if they do you need a timing light to (check all four) see if there is any fluctuation in ignition timing, if there isn't you will be looking for a fault with the fueling.
Rotor arms normally just pull off but don't hold me to it.