Does this look right?

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Ian Fearn
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Does this look right?

Post by Ian Fearn »

The distributor cap off my BX 4x4.


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1983 2CV6 Charleston 110k (Re-build in op!)
1993 BX TZD Turbo
1991 BX GTi 4x4
1989 BX GTi 4x4
1991 BX GTi Auto
1998 Xantia V6 Exclusive
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Of course not :lol:

The cap must have been offset for longish. Did the engine run at all ? Or did it just have some strange problems now and then ?
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
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Ian Fearn
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Post by Ian Fearn »

why would it be offset???
1983 2CV6 Charleston 110k (Re-build in op!)
1993 BX TZD Turbo
1991 BX GTi 4x4
1989 BX GTi 4x4
1991 BX GTi Auto
1998 Xantia V6 Exclusive
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Ian Fearn wrote:why would it be offset???
Because the pins are worn down. That was my first impression.
But now I got your message and see the cap contacts are indeed moulded offset into the cap body. This means you either have angled studs or bushes at the offset contacts which still looks bright new.

It seems then that any problem may be from the fact that you have burnt areas in the cap body before and after the (in pic's) lower contact pins. These areas may well be carbon plated and upsetting the distribution of the spark.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns »

Looks like there has been contact between the rotor arm and the plastic at some point, probably got some lift in the distributor shaft but other than that it looks about normal to me.

Whats the problem with it.

Dave
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Ian Fearn
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Post by Ian Fearn »

Hunting at idle and rough running. Plugs are all OK, air flow meter changed for a known good one, throttle body changed, air filter and leads all good too.
1983 2CV6 Charleston 110k (Re-build in op!)
1993 BX TZD Turbo
1991 BX GTi 4x4
1989 BX GTi 4x4
1991 BX GTi Auto
1998 Xantia V6 Exclusive
paranoid
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Post by paranoid »

Whats the bearing like on the end of the shaft ?
75 connes SE Cdti (nice, no really nice)
98 Xantia sensation
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Ian Fearn
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Post by Ian Fearn »

Do you mean the shaft the rotor arm is on??

What should it feel like?
1983 2CV6 Charleston 110k (Re-build in op!)
1993 BX TZD Turbo
1991 BX GTi 4x4
1989 BX GTi 4x4
1991 BX GTi Auto
1998 Xantia V6 Exclusive
paranoid
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Post by paranoid »

Should only be a small amount of movement 1-2mm at the very most.

Thats the post I meant, the one the arm slots onto.
75 connes SE Cdti (nice, no really nice)
98 Xantia sensation
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Ian Fearn
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Post by Ian Fearn »

There is a very small amount of movement in it, nothing more than you suggest.
1983 2CV6 Charleston 110k (Re-build in op!)
1993 BX TZD Turbo
1991 BX GTi 4x4
1989 BX GTi 4x4
1991 BX GTi Auto
1998 Xantia V6 Exclusive
sub42
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Post by sub42 »

With that amount of deposits inside the cap, no wonder it's hunting and missing. Give it a good clean up first before buying a new one, I've saved loads of caps that way.

Mark.
Previous convictions for ferret and giraffe rustling.

Synergie 1.9td SX loaded spec.
Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns »

Sideways movement that is, not rotary movement, I would suggest an amount of movement in the order of 2mm would mean you distributor is well goosed.

Dave
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Ian Fearn
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Post by Ian Fearn »

I've just tried to scrape away the deposits but it is seriously eroded. At 14 quid it needs a new one anyway!

There isnt any rotary movement, just a bit, and i mean a tiny bit of sideways movement.

How does the rotor arm come off by the way?
1983 2CV6 Charleston 110k (Re-build in op!)
1993 BX TZD Turbo
1991 BX GTi 4x4
1989 BX GTi 4x4
1991 BX GTi Auto
1998 Xantia V6 Exclusive
xantiatdsx
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Post by xantiatdsx »

Doesnt look too bad, I did thousands of miles in my 16v with the cap looking similar with no problems!
http://www.bx16v.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 3773b6ae5a
However, for £14 you may as well try it. They are serviceble items at the end of the day!
TIM
1986 2CV6 Dolly
1976 AKS 400 Sidewinder
2003 Xsara VTS

http://www.international2cvfriends.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Dave Burns
Posts: 1915
Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
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Post by Dave Burns »

Oops, this will of course be direct drive on the end of the camshaft, I was thinking a bit too old school.

Give the cap a good scrub out and see if symptoms persist, if they do you need a timing light to (check all four) see if there is any fluctuation in ignition timing, if there isn't you will be looking for a fault with the fueling.

Rotor arms normally just pull off but don't hold me to it.

Dave
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