crankshaft pulley
Moderator: RichardW
crankshaft pulley
Just about to embark on replacing my crankshaft pulley and have a question, in haynes, after turning to the specified torque when tightening back up, it says you then have to tighten it a further X degrees using an angle meter. is this second step necessary as I dont have one. Also , in terms of threadlock, what is the best one to use?
Cheers
Paul
Cheers
Paul
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by drpau</i>
Just about to embark on replacing my crankshaft pulley and have a question, in haynes, after turning to the specified torque when tightening back up, it says you then have to tighten it a further X degrees using an angle meter. is this second step necessary as I dont have one.
Paul
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According to the manual it's 51 or 55 degrees.
If you think of it like a clock, you start at 12.00 o'clock and tighten till around 12.08 to 12.09.
Does that help?
Just about to embark on replacing my crankshaft pulley and have a question, in haynes, after turning to the specified torque when tightening back up, it says you then have to tighten it a further X degrees using an angle meter. is this second step necessary as I dont have one.
Paul
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
According to the manual it's 51 or 55 degrees.
If you think of it like a clock, you start at 12.00 o'clock and tighten till around 12.08 to 12.09.
Does that help?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bernie</i>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
According to the manual it's 51 or 55 degrees.
If you think of it like a clock, you start at 12.00 o'clock and tighten till around 12.08 to 12.09.
Does that help?
[/quote]
Thats a good point actually. Ill employ the 'oclock' method, sod the degrees method![:D]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
According to the manual it's 51 or 55 degrees.
If you think of it like a clock, you start at 12.00 o'clock and tighten till around 12.08 to 12.09.
Does that help?
[/quote]
Thats a good point actually. Ill employ the 'oclock' method, sod the degrees method![:D]
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It's more or less 60°, which is one flat on the bolt. Put a dot on the pulley next to one corner of the bolt, and a corresponding dot on the bolt, and turn it till you have gone far enough. By which time it will be b***y tight - do not miss this step out, or you risk the pulley coming off and wrecking your engine. It's actually recommended to replace the bolt - it's pretty cheap, and comes ready loaded with thread lock.
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tomsheppard</i>
I'd go for replacing the bolt. These have been known to snap within the crankshaft when loosening has been attempted so I think that replacement with an unstretched one would be a wise precaution.
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Ahh, its a good job work has stalled to a halt then [;)]- my spanner is too short to get any leverage on the tensioner-tried improvising with various parts but they kept getting interfered with by bodywork and the powersteering pulley. Need to get a longer one. Im amazed at how little room there is compared to my last motor. I will get a new bolt from citroen tomorrow and then restart the job on sunday I think.
Cheers for all the tips,
Paul
I'd go for replacing the bolt. These have been known to snap within the crankshaft when loosening has been attempted so I think that replacement with an unstretched one would be a wise precaution.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Ahh, its a good job work has stalled to a halt then [;)]- my spanner is too short to get any leverage on the tensioner-tried improvising with various parts but they kept getting interfered with by bodywork and the powersteering pulley. Need to get a longer one. Im amazed at how little room there is compared to my last motor. I will get a new bolt from citroen tomorrow and then restart the job on sunday I think.
Cheers for all the tips,
Paul
I found that my 405 pulley bolt was loose before it did too much damage to the keyway. I have heard of several instances of this problem. It pays to listen carefully to your engine from time to time!
Folks in our neighbourhood say "oh, your bonnet's up again - more problems?" I'm tempted to reply "no, it's because the bonnet goes up regularly that I have fewer problems".
21st century cars as "white goods". Discsss. 20 marks.
rg
Folks in our neighbourhood say "oh, your bonnet's up again - more problems?" I'm tempted to reply "no, it's because the bonnet goes up regularly that I have fewer problems".
21st century cars as "white goods". Discsss. 20 marks.
rg
Yes if you catch it in time it can be ok. The fact that there is a woodruff key is a life saver. I had a slack bolt on my 205. Caused erratic smoke emission (mentioned elsewhere) because the timing belt sprocket on the crank had just a wee bit of play in it. It is when the thing gets worn/loose enough to lose the purchase of the woodruff key that you can get big problems. Pays to keep it tight!
Its a light tapping most noticable at 2-3000rpm, it was diagnosed by a peugeot mech, I have a few pics of it here, http://www.boby.freeservers.com/photo.html, the rust that can be seen is thought to be the start of it breaking up. Even if it isnt I'd feel better if I changed it anyway - peace of mind when travelling at 80mph. Pulley bolt was £2.09 by the way.