Does anybody know how to remove the cables from the heater controls as i've just broken the hot/cold adjuster off....
Looks like a real pig of a job.
BX Heater Controls
Moderator: RichardW
It's not as bad as it might seem at first. what exactly have you broken? Is it the shaft on which the temperature knob turns?
Firstly, you need to establish why it broke - I suspect I know why. The heater valve which supplies the matrix is found in a rather inaccessible spot under the driver's side of the dash (on a RHD car), to the left of and above the clutch pedal.You need to find first of all if this valve is getting stiff by moving it manually from the valve end of the cable. You should be able to see the mechanism in the pic below, to the left of the steering column lower section. The valve control cable can be seen coming up from the bottom of the picure towards the light-coloured heater matrix feed/return.
If it ain't shifting easily then there aren't many solutions other than replacing or cleaning the valve section leading to the matrix, or possibly a complete cooling system flush.
If the valve is working and moving OK then you have 2 options - (1) repair as before (2) release the heater valve and re-route it to a new more direct route. For (1) you'll need to repair/replace part or all of the white board assembly that the cable mounts onto. You'll need a scrapyard visit for this, but at least it allows you to go through the dismantling process on a non-runner. I just posted a part description of most of the dismantling required onto a recent thread on www.citroenz.com/forum/ under the name David(UK).
This takes you up to the point where you have access to a white plastic panel, secured by 4 philips-screws which has a PCB clipped onto it. The control cables are secured at the back of this board, and the outer cable held in place with some rather evil and fiddly curly metal clips. Remove any of these at your own peril!
Option (2)(reroute the cable, new control lever at the side of the radio console) is covered on the hints and tips section, again at www.citroenz.com/forum/ and courtesy of Alan S of this forum. The dismantling is broadly similar, and you could possibly get away without removing the white control board.
Hope this is helpful.
Firstly, you need to establish why it broke - I suspect I know why. The heater valve which supplies the matrix is found in a rather inaccessible spot under the driver's side of the dash (on a RHD car), to the left of and above the clutch pedal.You need to find first of all if this valve is getting stiff by moving it manually from the valve end of the cable. You should be able to see the mechanism in the pic below, to the left of the steering column lower section. The valve control cable can be seen coming up from the bottom of the picure towards the light-coloured heater matrix feed/return.
If it ain't shifting easily then there aren't many solutions other than replacing or cleaning the valve section leading to the matrix, or possibly a complete cooling system flush.
If the valve is working and moving OK then you have 2 options - (1) repair as before (2) release the heater valve and re-route it to a new more direct route. For (1) you'll need to repair/replace part or all of the white board assembly that the cable mounts onto. You'll need a scrapyard visit for this, but at least it allows you to go through the dismantling process on a non-runner. I just posted a part description of most of the dismantling required onto a recent thread on www.citroenz.com/forum/ under the name David(UK).
This takes you up to the point where you have access to a white plastic panel, secured by 4 philips-screws which has a PCB clipped onto it. The control cables are secured at the back of this board, and the outer cable held in place with some rather evil and fiddly curly metal clips. Remove any of these at your own peril!
Option (2)(reroute the cable, new control lever at the side of the radio console) is covered on the hints and tips section, again at www.citroenz.com/forum/ and courtesy of Alan S of this forum. The dismantling is broadly similar, and you could possibly get away without removing the white control board.
Hope this is helpful.
David
I see you've also had a few problems with those outer cable clips. LOL. They usually end up behind the radio.
One tip that may help with the control cables and heater linkages.
Applying a small amount of clear grease from an aerosol fitted with an extended nozzle to all components reduces the risk of breaking inner cable connection points, especially on the heater valve.
Peter
I see you've also had a few problems with those outer cable clips. LOL. They usually end up behind the radio.
One tip that may help with the control cables and heater linkages.
Applying a small amount of clear grease from an aerosol fitted with an extended nozzle to all components reduces the risk of breaking inner cable connection points, especially on the heater valve.
Peter
Right then, i've got to the whiteboard with the PCB attached no problem. The question is however, what do i do now?
I can get hold of another whiteboard with the heater control to replace the broken original.
Do i need to release the cables at the clutch pedal end or at the control itself? Couldn't quite work out from your description (which was brilliant, thank you) which is the best course of action?
I'll tackle the heater valve issue at the same time. Can this be bought new/replaced as a single unit?
I can get hold of another whiteboard with the heater control to replace the broken original.
Do i need to release the cables at the clutch pedal end or at the control itself? Couldn't quite work out from your description (which was brilliant, thank you) which is the best course of action?
I'll tackle the heater valve issue at the same time. Can this be bought new/replaced as a single unit?
Thanks Ian - glad it was helpful. Yes, prm, I have had that "pinging clip" moment - several times. That's why I built up a stock of a few spare clips.
Ian - what I wanted to stop you doing was wading in and disconnecting the control cables at the white box end. As you'll see from prm's remarks it's one of life's little pleasures (not) - especially reconnecting the cable in the limited space and successfully locating the clip in the right place without it springing out and behind the radio.
I think the only cable you'll need to disconnect on your original is the heater-knob-spindle one. AFAIR the inner cable hooks into a hole on a plastic sprocket at the other end of the spindle, which locates onto the back of the white box. The plastic outer to the cable is held in place by one of the aforementioned easily-lost clips.
Don't do it until you need to as it's not recommended to re-route one of these cables.....get the bits you need first from the scrapyard, and hence get some practice in the easy bit of disconnecting the box (4 screws), and the more difficult bit of removing clips and then the cables which locate in to the back of it.
It's best to get the board complete so you have spares for the bits box, though you may only need the bits associated with the heater-temp knob and cable. Belt and braces would be to get the complete heater cable as well, by disconnecting the temp control cable only at the valve end (held on at a brass screw-fitting) and then pulling the cable through from the white-box end.
BUT....was the valve stiff or stuck after all? Maybe it was it the cable? It's important to find out by giving the plastic linkages a twiddle. They should move fairly easily.
Unfortunately it's a case of major coolant drainage to replace the valve, should that be necessary. I've not had the pleasure so I'd recommend you find out what's what before making your next move. It'll be on the Citroen dealers' parts list, if you can find someone sufficiently motivated to track it down on your behalf. Otherwise it's a case of a good scrapyard grovel, and dodging fountains of escaping coolant. The valve assembly comes between the heater matrix and the grommet which takes the matrix feed/return pipes through the front bulkhead.
Ian - what I wanted to stop you doing was wading in and disconnecting the control cables at the white box end. As you'll see from prm's remarks it's one of life's little pleasures (not) - especially reconnecting the cable in the limited space and successfully locating the clip in the right place without it springing out and behind the radio.
I think the only cable you'll need to disconnect on your original is the heater-knob-spindle one. AFAIR the inner cable hooks into a hole on a plastic sprocket at the other end of the spindle, which locates onto the back of the white box. The plastic outer to the cable is held in place by one of the aforementioned easily-lost clips.
Don't do it until you need to as it's not recommended to re-route one of these cables.....get the bits you need first from the scrapyard, and hence get some practice in the easy bit of disconnecting the box (4 screws), and the more difficult bit of removing clips and then the cables which locate in to the back of it.
It's best to get the board complete so you have spares for the bits box, though you may only need the bits associated with the heater-temp knob and cable. Belt and braces would be to get the complete heater cable as well, by disconnecting the temp control cable only at the valve end (held on at a brass screw-fitting) and then pulling the cable through from the white-box end.
BUT....was the valve stiff or stuck after all? Maybe it was it the cable? It's important to find out by giving the plastic linkages a twiddle. They should move fairly easily.
Unfortunately it's a case of major coolant drainage to replace the valve, should that be necessary. I've not had the pleasure so I'd recommend you find out what's what before making your next move. It'll be on the Citroen dealers' parts list, if you can find someone sufficiently motivated to track it down on your behalf. Otherwise it's a case of a good scrapyard grovel, and dodging fountains of escaping coolant. The valve assembly comes between the heater matrix and the grommet which takes the matrix feed/return pipes through the front bulkhead.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DLM</i>
Unfortunately it's a case of major coolant drainage to replace the valve, should that be necessary. I've not had the pleasure so I'd recommend you find out what's what before making your next move. It'll be on the Citroen dealers' parts list, if you can find someone sufficiently motivated to track it down on your behalf. Otherwise it's a case of a good scrapyard grovel, and dodging fountains of escaping coolant.<b> The valve assembly comes between the heater matrix and the grommet which takes the matrix feed/return pipes through the front bulkhead.</b>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
This valve replacement I've seen done & offsided for one of my sons when he has done it....3 times; (don't ask, you really don't want to know)[B)][:0] and I can tell you it is one dog of a job.
Before you start, have access to an engine crane to get the engine out of the way to give you space, and also silicone release spray as the grommett is a "jam tight" fit between the firewall on the outside and the pipes on the inside and as a further tip, if you do go for a change of it, keep the old valve as the union is about as flexible as a frozen carrott and is easily snapped off when doing other jobs.
Now you know why I said "don't ask."[V][V]
Alan S
Unfortunately it's a case of major coolant drainage to replace the valve, should that be necessary. I've not had the pleasure so I'd recommend you find out what's what before making your next move. It'll be on the Citroen dealers' parts list, if you can find someone sufficiently motivated to track it down on your behalf. Otherwise it's a case of a good scrapyard grovel, and dodging fountains of escaping coolant.<b> The valve assembly comes between the heater matrix and the grommet which takes the matrix feed/return pipes through the front bulkhead.</b>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
This valve replacement I've seen done & offsided for one of my sons when he has done it....3 times; (don't ask, you really don't want to know)[B)][:0] and I can tell you it is one dog of a job.
Before you start, have access to an engine crane to get the engine out of the way to give you space, and also silicone release spray as the grommett is a "jam tight" fit between the firewall on the outside and the pipes on the inside and as a further tip, if you do go for a change of it, keep the old valve as the union is about as flexible as a frozen carrott and is easily snapped off when doing other jobs.
Now you know why I said "don't ask."[V][V]
Alan S