Xantia window "one touch" control

Evodad · Unread post by **Evodad** » 02 Sep 2004, 20:48

Does anyone know how to operate the driver's side electric window without the "one touch" facility? Power's going to the PCB at the front of the door, but none's going out to the window motor.
At the moment I'm taking power from the cigar lighter & using a cross over switch to change polarity & a dor bell switch to operate the window!

Unread post by **philhoward** » 02 Sep 2004, 23:27

Odd...on mine just hold the switch for more than about a second and the one-shot function disables; then you can stop it where you want. One second = about an inch of opening (takes practice)

Evodad · Unread post by **Evodad** » 03 Sep 2004, 13:02

Thanks Phil, I've tried that. There's 12v going to the PCB via the "thin" green wires, but no power going out to the window motor via the two thicker ones.

Kowalski · Unread post by **Kowalski** » 03 Sep 2004, 14:58

I've got two Xantias and the behavior of the "one touch" is different between the two. On the earlier car, a quick single touch of the switch opens or closes the window fully, automatically which is annoying if you want to open the window just a crack. On the later car, you have to hold the button down for a couple of seconds for the "one touch" to be activated, then after you remove your finger the window continues to open / close fully by itself.

Evodad · Unread post by **Evodad** » 03 Sep 2004, 15:54

Thanks guys, but we're getting away from my original problem.
I've had a meter across the green wires going to the PCB; 12+ volts, but no voltage across the two thicker wires going out to the window motor, also, neither of the two relay solenoids "click" when the window switch is operated.

tomsheppard · Unread post by **tomsheppard** » 03 Sep 2004, 16:02

So the most likely diagnosis is that the switch contacts have failed. Try swapping if you can for a passenger's side switch and see if there is power to the windows. Failing that, strip the switch very carefully and clean out the fluff and muck, looking for burnt contacts or melted plastic.

Evodad · Unread post by **Evodad** » 03 Sep 2004, 16:19

Thanks Tom, I know the switch is OK. There are three green wires going from the switch to the PCB, one is common & the other two give the +ve or -ve voltage depending which way the rocker swich is pressed. I've tried the nose & visual test but everything looks & smells OK.
I'm trying to work out how the passenger side works without the "one touch" facility. Even with the wiring diagram from Haynes, I can't work out how to "copy" the passenger side wiring arrangement onto the driver's side.

andycarter · Unread post by **andycarter** » 04 Sep 2004, 03:16

The driver's side has an electronic controller (says bitron on it) inside the door. I assume your is broken hence you want to operate without it.
The control unit has 6 wires:
+12V [6005], 0V [M6005]
2 from the switch [6041], [6051]
2 to the motor [6040], [6050]
If you remove the control box and connect the 2 wires from the switch to the 2 wires for the motor it will operate like the passenger side.
[nnnn] is taken from haynes diagram, if you're lucky it will be printed on the wires.

wrinklet1 · Unread post by **wrinklet1** » 04 Sep 2004, 12:59

Evodad, have you tried swapping the passenger and drivers switches over? Maybe it may just be the switch itself, even if its not the switch at least you have removed that from the equation. Also check ALL your fuses, it may sound daft, but,knowing Citroen like i do, it could be a fuse box that is wired differently to normal, I have seen this happen before so give that a whirl.
Paul

Unread post by **philhoward** » 04 Sep 2004, 15:14

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH!!!!
Another Bitron Box!!!

Evodad · Unread post by **Evodad** » 04 Sep 2004, 20:30

Guys, thanks for your help. I've got the window working, albeit without the one touch facility.
Andy, I'd tried the obvious solution of connecting the two wires from the switch directly to the motor & it didn't work. Must have been a dicky connection somewhere.
Bought a multi-meter so I could check continuity & voltages etc.
Did the two wire fix again & it worked!
Thanks again for your help.