Coolant change sanity check!

[Argos69]

I've had a look around and haven't found the answer to this, so I'll ask those more experienced than I.

We had our first frosty morning here in France, so I thought I'd best check the antifreeze in both our cars. After having major engine-out work done on my C5 2.2HDi in June, I've only ever glanced at the water level, never actually tested it. So I was mortified to find my tester says there is NO antifreeze in it at all! Just water. Very unimpressed with the supposed English garage "mechanic" here in the Mayenne, but it's a lot of distance and hassle to go back. I guessed that if I can find the bits I need to open/close/bleed, I can do the job myself. I've looked up the instructions and have none of the special Citroen tools (come on Citroen, whatever happened to just filling it up, why is it now brain surgery?)

Can the bottom hose be used to drain the system without removing the under tray? I say this because the underside of the car is like a swamp, due to the farmers transferring all the mud from the fields into the roads. If it can get at the hose, is it easy to do?

I've read somewhere that loosening the header tank and raising it is a suitable alternative to the special topping up bottle. Is this true?

I have found the bleed screw at the back of the engine, but only that one. Is there another on this engine?

Is the 11 litre capacity I've read about, correct?

I'd like to flush it but is this even possible, given the hose configuration?

As ever, massively grateful for any help and advice.

Thank you!

[MattBLancs]

Now that's a memory test, I've done coolant change in my 2009 2.2 HDi C5 too. Drain point on the coolant pump = is that the one you found?

Header tank I think I found a drinks bottle that was a good fit in the header tank opening, will see if I can find a picture.

[PaulC5]

For a special tool to raise the coolant level I used an old expansion tank cap, cut a hole it and pushed an approx 300 mm length of basin waste pipe (30mm od ?) through with a waste pipe fitting seal around the pipe to the cap. Then fill up with coolant in the expansion tank to approx half way, fit the pipe and push it in to BELOW the liquid level so there is an air cap and the tank will not get overfilled provided the pipe/cap seal does not let air out. Then put more coolant in the pipe to a higher level which will put a bit of pressure in the tank. Open any bleed valves so air comes out. Then pull out the pipe and coolant in it will run into and raise the tank level a bit, if not enough add a bit more.

I always use concentrated coolant, put in the correct amount first and then add water to fill the system.

[Argos69]

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

Anyone got any thoughts about the draining aspect? Can I do it without removing the mud catcher under tray?

[Argos69]

Also.....Can someone put me out of my misery and tell me where the other bleed screw is please? I have the one at the back of the engine on the heater hose but I can't see the other one!

[Argos69]

In the absence of any other info I decided to brave the snow here this morning and have a go at the coolant change.
What a fecking job! Not rocket science, but what a faff!
The showers every 5 minutes meant I didn't get the photos I'd have liked to, but some things I learned.
1. There are indeed 2 bleed valves!. One on the top heater hose behind the engine and another on the right hand side of the engine (if you remove the air filter box you can see it and get any size fingers onto it!)
2. The bottom hose doesn't need the under shield removed (hooray!). A pair of mole grips opens the the spring clamp so you can pull the bottom hose off and soak your arm in coolant.
3. It is a faff to fill, with some spillage from the bleed screws etc. I did tape an old plastic bottle to the header tank filling hole
4. Flushing brought out a horrific brown liquid.
BUT.....
It's done. I'm frozen and covered in dirt, old coolant and cow muck, but its done!
Mine took nowhere near 10-11 litres though, (maybe 8-9?) even after bleeding, so it is what it is.
I've been for a short drive and it all looks ok.
Thanks once again PaulC5 and MattBLancs.

[MattBLancs]

Well done! No idea how chilly it is in France Vs here in Lancashire - it's blooming f-f-f-freezing here. -4°C when I was car deicing at 8:00, by lunchtime it had dragged all the way up to +2°C. Not much fun doing wet car jobs in such temperatures!

Glad a load of brown muck came out - definitely gives more of a sense of "I'm making it better" to be getting rid of that!

[PaulC5]

Well done, a lot of messing but better than the engine block splitting at the first frost if it froze up. The brown muck will include rust due to the lack of the coolant corrosion inhibitors.

A neighbour had a van with a coolant leak so kept topping up with water but at the first bad frost the block froze and the repair cost wrote the van off. Now I would have thought he might have learnt but he did the same on the replacement the next winter. The next van he bought a new one but he then wrote that off in a crash. A lot of wasted money for the sake of a bit of care.