C5 X7 key fob

[Peter.N.]

The one on my latest one is a bit tatty to say the least, I ordered one from Ebay, looked almost identical to mine but I couldn't transfer the key to the new one as the fitting is slightly different. Any idea where I can get one that will fit. It tells you to get the new blank key cut, I can't see that happening. Any ideas?

Thanks

Peter

[Paul-R]

When you say slightly different, is it a case that there's a small steel pin holding the blade onto the swivelling body and the holes are slightly misaligned? I had one like that (on a different car*) and the solution is to file the slots very slightly so that pin then fits. If memory serves correct I then used the original pin as it was a slightly smaller diameter than the new one.

* A Vauxhall Corsa I think.

[Peter.N.]

The actual key blank has a different shaped hole in it. I would have used half the first case except that the key tensioning bit went off in all directions when I took it apart. Found the spring but not the other bit.

Peter

[the-termin8r]

The original Delphi keys and the Chinese knock-offs vary in that the Delphi ones contain everything in the bottom half of the key whereas the Chinese ones use the top panel with the membrane as the locking mechanism for the key flip action. In addition to that, there are two types of key blade and internal PCB style.

The blades are either HCA/HU83 or VA2. I know that for HCA blades it says so at the base of the original blades, but I don't know if that's the case with the VA2. The PCB styles are either 0523 or 0536. The 23 has the cell holder contained to the PCB whereas the 36 has the bottom half of the casing acting as one of the contacts. If you flip the key out on your original and look in the groove where it folds it should say which type it is. Both my X7s are HCA blades with 0523 bodies.

Just to make it that much more complicated, depending on the spec-level of the car you can either have two or three buttons. Then with the three-button type you can either have the centre one be for guide-me-home lighting on the saloon or the boot opening on the estate. Thankfully the difference between the two three-button types is only cosmetic.

You can see all the combos here. With the correct casing and blade type, you should be able to transfer your original PCBs instead of having to pair the new ones. Regarding the cutting, they offer to cut them if you send them a photo of the key. I find that super sketchy though. An independent locksmith is a better option. Or you can use the free option of just moving your original blade over as shown in this video.

One more note about that AE listing, apparently ASK modulation is for pre-2011 cars, FSK is for post. Keep that in mind. You should also be able to find fobs without PCBs, but they're so cheap that you might as well got for the whole thing. The only thing they don't come with is badge stickers for the back. You'll have to pick up a set separately if you want them.

[Peter.N.]

Thanks for the comprehensive information. My original key has HCA on it although the new one looks the same there is nothing written on it. It looks almost identical but the pivot hole is to small to take the button assembly, I would have used just the other half of the of the old one but I lost the bits when I took it apart. Its a 3 button one by the way, The PCB seems to fit but there is what looks like a battery holder in the case.

Peter

[the-termin8r]

If the blank blade has a groove down the side, then it is definitely an HCA. As for the casing, the one with the battery holder in the case is an 0536 case. I can't tell from your wording if both have the same holder. If one does not have the holder in the case then it is an 0523 case.

[Peter.N.]

It not exactly the same but pretty well, it looks the same outside.

Peter

[the-termin8r]

They'll look the same on the outside, but if you try to shove the innards of a 23 case into a 36 case (or vice versa) you'll break things. Check the embossing inside the groove where the key folds on both casings to verify what you have. That'll tell you if it's just janky manufacturing tolerance or if you've bought the wrong casing type. A couple of the images on that AE listing actually show what I'm talking about.

[Peter.N.]

OK thanks Rob.