I want to change the auxiliary belt and tensioners on my 2014 2.0 HDi Exclusive+ Grand Picasso as there is a loud high pitched squeak coming from them. The car has only done 53,000 miles so I wonder why its squeaking.
Do I need special tools, or just patience and thin fingers?
Does the tensioner with the long "legs" require some other parts to be removed first so it can be swapped out?
Thanks,
Marshall
Grand Picasso C4 2.0 Hdi: How to change the Auxiliary Belt Tensioners - see last post
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binraider
- Posts: 15
- Joined: 24 Nov 2024, 15:56
Grand Picasso C4 2.0 Hdi: How to change the Auxiliary Belt Tensioners - see last post
Last edited by binraider on 15 Jun 2025, 12:29, edited 1 time in total.
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merlin667
- (Donor 2025)
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Re: Advice needed Grand Picasso C4 2.0 Hdi: How do I change the Auxiliary Belt Tensioners
If its the 2.0BlueHDI with start/Stop then you have two tensioniers and an idling Roller.
The replacement Intervall is 5 or 6 years /120.000km /90.000 Miles.
if you replace the belt you can just cut it and remove the parts. But I'm not 100% sure, of you can reach the fixing screws afterwards.
The other Option is Bring the top tensionier to the Position, where it could bei fixed (Fully tensionier, loock at the New one), then the lower one. Remove the belt and idler pulley . Assemble backwards.
The replacement Intervall is 5 or 6 years /120.000km /90.000 Miles.
if you replace the belt you can just cut it and remove the parts. But I'm not 100% sure, of you can reach the fixing screws afterwards.
The other Option is Bring the top tensionier to the Position, where it could bei fixed (Fully tensionier, loock at the New one), then the lower one. Remove the belt and idler pulley . Assemble backwards.
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binraider
- Posts: 15
- Joined: 24 Nov 2024, 15:56
Re: Advice needed Grand Picasso C4 2.0 Hdi: How do I change the Auxiliary Belt Tensioners
Thanks!merlin667 wrote: 11 Jun 2025, 19:01 If its the 2.0BlueHDI with start/Stop then you have two tensioniers and an idling Roller.
The replacement Intervall is 5 or 6 years /120.000km /90.000 Miles.
if you replace the belt you can just cut it and remove the parts. But I'm not 100% sure, of you can reach the fixing screws afterwards.
The other Option is Bring the top tensionier to the Position, where it could bei fixed (Fully tensionier, loock at the New one), then the lower one. Remove the belt and idler pulley . Assemble backwards.
-
binraider
- Posts: 15
- Joined: 24 Nov 2024, 15:56
Re: Advice needed Grand Picasso C4 2.0 Hdi: How do I change the Auxiliary Belt Tensioners
Right so it was pretty straightforward. I was changing both the belt and the tensioners. The new tensioners came with little pins holding the tensioners in the compressed position, which was a god send.
Once i had removed the wheel and arch cover i put a 15mm socket on the lower tensioner (from inside the wheel arch), compressed it and then popped a drill bit in the locking hole - I just copied what was on the new one. Then from above i got a 15mm spanner - the open end, and put that on the little "bar" on the upper tensioner, compressed the spring (by pushing down), and then using a long large flat head screwdriver I wedged it in the compressed position by running the blade of the screwdriver from right to left under the shiny metal tubes on the left hand side and against the bulkhead. Then i could remove the belt. Its important to note that on the upper tensioner you can only remove the lower 10mm bolt when the tensioner is compressed, so, while its still compressed get your sockets out and remove the lower 10mm bolt (from the wheel arch). Then release the tension on the spring and remove the screwdriver, and then remove the upper 10mm bolts (from above). Then you can remove the lower tensioner (from the wheel arch).
Reassembly is the same in reverse - just remember to start with with the upper tensioner as once the lower tensioner is in place you have less room to put in the upper tensioner lower bolt.
Once i had removed the wheel and arch cover i put a 15mm socket on the lower tensioner (from inside the wheel arch), compressed it and then popped a drill bit in the locking hole - I just copied what was on the new one. Then from above i got a 15mm spanner - the open end, and put that on the little "bar" on the upper tensioner, compressed the spring (by pushing down), and then using a long large flat head screwdriver I wedged it in the compressed position by running the blade of the screwdriver from right to left under the shiny metal tubes on the left hand side and against the bulkhead. Then i could remove the belt. Its important to note that on the upper tensioner you can only remove the lower 10mm bolt when the tensioner is compressed, so, while its still compressed get your sockets out and remove the lower 10mm bolt (from the wheel arch). Then release the tension on the spring and remove the screwdriver, and then remove the upper 10mm bolts (from above). Then you can remove the lower tensioner (from the wheel arch).
Reassembly is the same in reverse - just remember to start with with the upper tensioner as once the lower tensioner is in place you have less room to put in the upper tensioner lower bolt.