I have a BX with a 1400 KDY Engine (K1G like)
Due to a worn clutch I have to remove the gearbox. In order to that I have to remove both driveshafts. The short one, on the lefthand-side is out already. What is to be removed now is the right hand-side. This is the one with the intermediate bearing. The two nuts have been removed and the bolts are pushed out and rotated half a turn. The driveshaft is out of the wheelhub, but pulling it outwards does not do a thing. Trying to move the horizontal extended part of the driveshaft sideways by hand does not give a budge. Hammering on the innerside of the shaft does not do a thing also.
I am at a full stop here. So I would appreciate any suggestions at this point.
I can imagine the bearing oxidised to both the shaft and the cast aluminium engine-support. An idea that I have is to remove it from the engine. But since the engine is still in situ (I intend to leave it there due to the absence of gorilla-people and hoists), there is very little room to do that.
So all ideas are welcome!
Pierre Verbakel
The Netherlands
Removal of Right Driveshaft on BX 14
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Hi Pierre -
You have done right - like Tom said [8D]
- and still no help.
I dont believe removing the housing is an option unless the axle is out [:D][:D]
- because the housing has rather long locating taps for accurate fixing to engine block [;)]
But you may try if it's possible. Because of the rather high mileage, and consequent wear in the diff bearing, the axle may just barely move out sufficiently to undo the housing.
Once the complete teaser is out, it's much easier to work on.
The problem is surface corrosion on the intermediate bearing, making it stick in the housing.
The only option is to knock out the bearing from behind, which unfortunately damages the bearing [:(!]
- and then you are facing a bearing replacement job too [:(]
Depending on your circumstances, I would try remove the gearbox, leaving the RHS axle in it's housing. At least you then get the option of removing the housing and axle rather easy afterwards.
You have done right - like Tom said [8D]
- and still no help.
I dont believe removing the housing is an option unless the axle is out [:D][:D]
- because the housing has rather long locating taps for accurate fixing to engine block [;)]
But you may try if it's possible. Because of the rather high mileage, and consequent wear in the diff bearing, the axle may just barely move out sufficiently to undo the housing.
Once the complete teaser is out, it's much easier to work on.
The problem is surface corrosion on the intermediate bearing, making it stick in the housing.
The only option is to knock out the bearing from behind, which unfortunately damages the bearing [:(!]
- and then you are facing a bearing replacement job too [:(]
Depending on your circumstances, I would try remove the gearbox, leaving the RHS axle in it's housing. At least you then get the option of removing the housing and axle rather easy afterwards.
BTW Pierre :
Get yourself 3 long pin bolts (heads hacksawed off), the same threading as the gearbox mounting bolts.
At least 120mm long bolts are needed.
Then fit these on the engine block - and slide on the gearbox when refitting. It's then a LOT easier to refit the gearbox - I tell you [8)]
The pinbolts are then simply replaced 1 by 1 with the original bolts.
Get yourself 3 long pin bolts (heads hacksawed off), the same threading as the gearbox mounting bolts.
At least 120mm long bolts are needed.
Then fit these on the engine block - and slide on the gearbox when refitting. It's then a LOT easier to refit the gearbox - I tell you [8)]
The pinbolts are then simply replaced 1 by 1 with the original bolts.
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I have been removing the bolts of the engine-support. However the support on the chassis-side is in the way to remove it. Since the axle itself will not like to be moved in an angle, this support has to be removed. It is fitted with one bolt. There is a hole in the chassis to access it, however, there is also a piece of plate, welded to the chassis, that covers the hole partly making the access of a cup of 18 mm impossible.
I appreciate the trick with the guiding bolts to do the refitting.
Pierre Verbakel
The Netherlands
I appreciate the trick with the guiding bolts to do the refitting.
Pierre Verbakel
The Netherlands
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The two nuts have been removed and the bolts are pushed out and rotated <b>half a turn</b>. The driveshaft is out of the wheelhub, but pulling it outwards does not do a thing. Trying to move the horizontal extended part of the driveshaft sideways by hand does not give a budge. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Pierre
They need to be rotated a quarter of a turn, not half. Try heating the bearing housing
Pierre
They need to be rotated a quarter of a turn, not half. Try heating the bearing housing
Pierre
A couple of tricks that may help.
Most probably the bearing is sized and you will need to apply heat to the casing -- heat gun, gas, hair dryer, steam.
Make sure no surplus oil or petrol around.
When hot, hammer shaft vertically to vibrate and possibly break the seal. Two pair of mole grips back- to- back, clamped on the drive shaft as a driving face and then hammered outwards.
You need to loosely refit the shaft back into the hub as support and keep in a straight line, with about 25mm clearance from hub bearing inner face.
May require a few attempts.
Peter
A couple of tricks that may help.
Most probably the bearing is sized and you will need to apply heat to the casing -- heat gun, gas, hair dryer, steam.
Make sure no surplus oil or petrol around.
When hot, hammer shaft vertically to vibrate and possibly break the seal. Two pair of mole grips back- to- back, clamped on the drive shaft as a driving face and then hammered outwards.
You need to loosely refit the shaft back into the hub as support and keep in a straight line, with about 25mm clearance from hub bearing inner face.
May require a few attempts.
Peter