2.0 hdi clutch advice

[Martinez]

Clutch started slipping on way back from sunny Wales last week. It’s not too bad at moment but on its way out so need to replace. Just need advice on couple of things. Are Borg and Beck clutches still considered good ? Also, should I replace the clutch fork as I know the ball joint can wear out ? And what about the ball ?
Any other tips always appreciated. It’s a 2001 Berlingo conversion with Nu Venture Motorhome body fitted so it’s heavy, is there a heavy duty clutch available as an option ?
Cheers guys

[Martinez]

Anyone ?

[RichardW]

Strip it down and see what is worn / broken. Doubt there is a heavy duty clutch, stick a decent one in and treat it gently!

[Martinez]

Looking like a 2 day job then

[Steve Walsh]

Before I had a Hydraulic ramp It was a 2 day job with a vehicle on blocks, I used to jack it up and stand on 2 breeze blocks under each wheel, and use a engine crane to lower gearbox out. Dont forget to drain oil first, it will leak when driveshafts removed.

[PaulC5]

Last gear box I removed was heavy (Saab 9000) and I used an engine crane to lower it onto some cardboard and then drag it out from under the car. This was to replace the bearings. I already had the crane and other methods can be used to take the weight, I originally bought it to remove a Saab 900 engine to replace the bearings in its gear box.

[Martinez]

Thanks for the tips guys. I’ve got engine hoist if needed. I replaced both drive shafts last year so I’m aware of the oil in gearbox. Might have to fit new seals anyway. Spoke to my mate who’s going to do most of the grubby stuff and we’re looking to strip it all down first then order whatever parts needed

[Martinez]

Well, it turned into a nightmare. A hidden bolt ar rear of engine block foxed us for a while, and then proved almost impossible to remove due to air pipe from turbo being in way. 6 1/2 hours and eventually box came out.
But that wasn’t the end of it, 2 of the torx bolts holding clutch to flywheel were stuck and just rounded off.
Are they made of cheese ? Then realised that thrust bearing sent me was wrong one. Turns out my box is a B3a. Online shop I got it from we’re very apologetic but didn’t have one in stock, so gave me £25 refund and I got one local for £20
So, replacement bolts for clutch. I’m thinking of using hex head bolts instead of the torx ones. But do they need to be tensile or not ? And what’s the torque settings ?

[PaulC5]

A quick search on clutch plate bolts comes up with lots of kits and being high tensile of 10.9 on one ad. If you go for a lower strength they may snap when you start driving and have to do the job again. They might also be a fine thread. If these then they look to be stamped 8.8 so have a look at your existing bolts https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1216368198

In the Haynes manual for the C5 it gives the clutch plate bolts as 20 Nm so not that tight and the heads on them in the photos look like torx ones.

[RichardW]

I would def use HT bolts, as Paul says they are not usually that tight.

[Martinez]

I managed to get a pack of M8 x 20 bolts from Toolstation. Rated 8.8 on packet and at 75p for 10 they’re cheap enough.
I was originally thinking of using tensile, but then thought ‘ well they screw into cast iron which isn’t very hard, so what’s the point ? ‘ anyway, I’ll locktight them in just to be safe.

[PaulC5]

Are the Toolstation ones the same thread and length as the original torx ones ? I guess they are these https://www.toolstation.com/high-tensil ... rew/p12325

[Steve Walsh]

I thought the original are metric fine thread, those toolstation ones are standard metric. I would go for the originals, even some from a breakers yard rather than those.

[Martinez]

Correct thread. Slightly longer so I’ll have to try them in flywheel for fit.
Why is it sometimes the length includes the head and sometimes it’s just the threaded section ?
Coincidentally, I used same bolts for the brake disc on one of my bikes after a similar experience. In fact I’ve got some left over, but much longer length, so quicker n easier to drive a mile up the road n buy shorter ones.

[Paul-R]

Why is it sometimes the length includes the head and sometimes it’s just the threaded section ?

If you're talking about bolts and screws with a regular hex or socket (Torqx, Allen, Posidriv, Phillips, etc) head then it doesn't.

When you get to bolts and screws with a countersunk mating face then the length should be measured to where the taper is at its largest, not where the parallel shank finishes.

if someone is quoting the overall length then that should be an additional, special measurement, maybe because of a clearance problem with a rotating part, for instance.