1.6 bluehdi 100 crank no start after repair

[Jayvee9888]

Hi All,

I' have a 2015 1.6 bluehdi 100 and have recently repaired a common oil leak coming from the Camshaft carrier which was going down the back of the engine. It leaks from the silicone seal between the cam carrier and the head. I resealed the carrier with silicone sealant and putting everything back but the engine will now not start. The repair included a replacement cambelt kit and injector return pipes as these predictably broke during disassembly.

The engine tries to start sometimes and coughs and sputters but otherwise is a crank no start. . So far i have....

1. Triple checked timing. I'm sure this is correct as it starts using easy start. I've done cambelts before on DV6 engines and am not new to completing this type of work.
2. I've checked for fuel pressure from the low pressure side and it is reaching the filter. Fuel is also returning to the tank from leak off pipes. I've also cracked off high pressure lines and have fuel reaching there. My scan tool also shows sufficient pressure being generated in the fuel rail when cranking. Same as commanded around 300 to 400 bar while cranking
3. I've checked all related fuses and there are no circuit or performance codes being generated at all for anything.

It appears to me that the injectors aren't firing and therefore fuel related. Is there anything that might be stopping the injectors from firing that I've missed?

Any help or suggestions very welcome as I'm currently a bit stuck with this one!

Thanks!

[kantica]

Crank and cam position sensors connected ?

[Steve Walsh]

As it starts on easy start I would guess at air in fuel system

[Jayvee9888]

Crank and cam position sensors connected ?

Thanks. Yes. I've checked both and have 5v at each sensor.

[Jayvee9888]

As it starts on easy start I would guess at air in fuel system

Thanks for your reply. It does appear to be an issue with fuelling and I've tried to bleed the system multiple times and not had issues previously whhen changing fuel filter etc. Is there any special trick to bleeding the air that I'm missing?

[Steve Walsh]

If you have a primer buld in the circuit, pump and pump for a while, if not I have used a vacuum pump on the return line, I use a Mityvac Brake Bleeder and ensure you have no air leaking in or fuel leaking out.

[RichardW]

If you've got a scan tool, check for cam crank synch and an engine speed signal when cranking.

[Jayvee9888]

If you have a primer buld in the circuit, pump and pump for a while, if not I have used a vacuum pump on the return line, I use a Mityvac Brake Bleeder and ensure you have no air leaking in or fuel leaking out.

Thanks for this. There is no primer on the fuel system. I'll try the mitivac on the return line. I have tried to bleed multiple times and have also ran the special function on the scan tool that is meant to bleed the fuel system following maintenance.

[Jayvee9888]

If you've got a scan tool, check for cam crank synch and an engine speed signal when cranking.

Thanks for this. When cranking i have engine speed showing on the scan tool so this would indicate that the crank sensor is working properly.

The Cam Crank synch switches from No to Yes on the scan tool when cranking. I did however notice that the value was sometimes flickering back from yes to No whilst cranking. Is this normal and switches with the revolution of the engine or something i should investigate? possible faulty cam sensor or gap issue? I did remove it during the cam carrier repair but it was not damaged and appears to be back where it should be. ie. seated corrctly and the air gap to the Cam wheel looks normal.

[Jayvee9888]

If you've got a scan tool, check for cam crank synch and an engine speed signal when cranking.

Thanks for this. When cranking i have engine speed showing on the scan tool so this would indicate that the crank sensor is working properly.

The Cam Crank synch switches from No to Yes on the scan tool when cranking. I did however notice that the value was sometimes flickering from yes to No whilst cranking. Is this normal and schanges with the revolution of the engine or something i should investigate? possible faulty cam sensor? I did remove it during the cam carrier repair but it was not damaged and appears to be back whwere it should be ie. seated and the air gap to the Cam wheel looks normal.

I should add that I've not had any cam crank correlation fault codes or anything sensor circuit related.