I'm in a fix!

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superloopy
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I'm in a fix!

Unread post by superloopy »

Guys, stupidly i parked my second Activa (no, its not the one which lost its rear screen when a roof tile was blown onto it by Storm Bert, its a second car, also a non runner but which i'm trying to show a bit of love to) against a side wall on its passenger side. At the time all was well and tyres were up to pressure. Over time both were losing pressure and subsequently suspension to such a point when one went flat (NSF), perished sidewall. Not a problem i thought until i went out over the weekend to find the rear tyre NSR also down, rendering the car flat on both its nearside rims. Again, not a problem, just add pressure, which i did. All good for about two minutes when a massive explosion occurred ( i wasn't near) and the NSR blew out also. So i'm stuck with the car down on its rims against a wall with very little access to a jacking point even if i could get the lift on the body, which I cant. Any handy tips on raising her up (its a non runner atm). Even my low profile jack wont fit under the chassis!!

Feeling very incapable all of a sudden, both cars incapacitated due to my ineptitude.

Oh, and to cap it off, I found rear wheel arches both rusted on my V6 and a large hole under rear floor near the NSR wheel arch although both sills themselves seem sound .... i am trying to resurrect at least one of these cars, honest!
Mike

Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
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xantia_v6
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by xantia_v6 »

Can you jack it up on the other side at the front or rear, which should also raise the low side enough to get a jack under?
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Stickyfinger
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by Stickyfinger »

Got a trolley jack ?....if so you should be able to reach the rear subframe "pad" from the rear of the car by keeping it close the the wheel....

I will not comment on the rust on the V6 as your day is bad enough.......
Alasdair
Activa, the Moose Dodger
superloopy
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by superloopy »

Stickyfinger wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 21:57 Got a trolley jack ?....if so you should be able to reach the rear subframe "pad" from the rear of the car by keeping it close the the wheel....

I will not comment on the rust on the V6 as your day is bad enough.......
Oh, go on, make my day!

Wheel arch panels anybody, i'm hoping a hole is a hole, patchable and not the whole floorpan .... but what do i know. I only went ot to blow a tyre up, and i did, literally!!!
Mike

Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
superloopy
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by superloopy »

xantia_v6 wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 21:37 Can you jack it up on the other side at the front or rear, which should also raise the low side enough to get a jack under?
Tried the other side and it just tips the car over and doesnt lift enough if any ... the car is really flat on the rims. The intention was to remove one tyre which was already on a rim and when the second one went bang the whole car went down to its stops on both of the rims. Suppose o could try digging a hole below the jacking point and sticking a bit of hardcore in for a base on which the scissor jack might raise a bit and let me get my low jackunder the front subframe, could work i i suppose.
I'll need to get the paving stones up
Mike

Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
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Stickyfinger
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by Stickyfinger »

OK

It would be the rot on the rear arches that would worry me more tbh because of the tendency for the rear side beam (floor to roof/tailgate) to be effected when there is rust in the arches.
.....with the floor it would depend just where it is, under the seating area etc there is a few double skinned areas and in the rear corners 3 skins, forward subframe mount and the seat belt mounting.
Alasdair
Activa, the Moose Dodger
superloopy
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by superloopy »

Stickyfinger wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 22:58 OK

It would be the rot on the rear arches that would worry me more tbh because of the tendency for the rear side beam (floor to roof/tailgate) to be effected when there is rust in the arches.
.....with the floor it would depend just where it is, under the seating area etc there is a few double skinned areas and in the rear corners 3 skins, forward subframe mount and the seat belt mounting.
Its bottoms of the arch where the door seams are. Ive seen it on many xantias online and some have had new arch panels put in but not many ggod ones left or new ones available?
Mike

Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
superloopy
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by superloopy »

This iis what has rusted out, and obviously behind it ... not looked that far yet, gulp!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234490264009 ... 3b94fa162b
Mike

Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
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Stickyfinger
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by Stickyfinger »

It is what is inside that matters most (from the cost point of view).....if you want advice about what you are looking at post some images of exactly where the problems are showing....that way people who "have been there" and those that know the inner structure can advise on the action needed.

For example, it makes a big difference if the rot is at the bottom of the arch near the sill or the top near/above the upper edge of the arch form.

As an example, this is a 3 skin area, there is another behind that inner rusty one !
a1db51e7f5bf3ceb17bb15586f19099f.jpg
Alasdair
Activa, the Moose Dodger
Vic Evans
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by Vic Evans »

superloopy wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 22:56
xantia_v6 wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 21:37 Can you jack it up on the other side at the front or rear, which should also raise the low side enough to get a jack under?
Tried the other side and it just tips the car over and doesnt lift enough if any ... the car is really flat on the rims. The intention was to remove one tyre which was already on a rim and when the second one went bang the whole car went down to its stops on both of the rims. Suppose o could try digging a hole below the jacking point and sticking a bit of hardcore in for a base on which the scissor jack might raise a bit and let me get my low jackunder the front subframe, could work i i suppose.
I'll need to get the paving stones up
Air bag & wheel dolly(s)?
wurlycorner
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by wurlycorner »

Does the car start and drive? If so, you can use planks of timber to drive 'onto', gradually increasing them in height as you pull forward.
I do this sometimes with a lowered car where you can't get the trolley jack (or a traditional wheel ramp) under, but you can slide lengths of timber under in front of the wheel.
I don't think I have a photo of what I mean, but hopefully it makes sense? If not, I'll try and do one.

EDIT:
Actually now I remember the first time I had to do this and it was of course, a bloody Citroen...
My V6 C5 was parked in a tight garage and the rear suspension pipe burst while parked, emptying the contents of the LDS tank over the floor and leaving the car on the deck.
Couldn't drive it out because there was 'step' at the threshold that would have ripped the underside of the car and I couldn't get round the side (or to the rear) to get a jack under.
It was basically a beached whale.
This timber trick allowed me to get it lifted enough to then get under it with other apparatus...
--
Iain

'85 CX GTi Turbo s1 (met. blue)
2x '85 CX GTi Turbo s2 t1 (met. silver & grey)
'88 CX GTi Turbo s2 T2 (met. light blue)
CX DTR T2 Safari (silver)
2x '96 Xantia Activa (Black & met. green)
'01 C5 2.0 HDi LX Estate (Blue)
'11 C5 X7 3.0 V6 Exclusive Tourer
superloopy
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by superloopy »

wurlycorner wrote: 04 Feb 2025, 12:06 Does the car start and drive? If so, you can use planks of timber to drive 'onto', gradually increasing them in height as you pull forward.
I do this sometimes with a lowered car where you can't get the trolley jack (or a traditional wheel ramp) under, but you can slide lengths of timber under in front of the wheel.
I don't think I have a photo of what I mean, but hopefully it makes sense? If not, I'll try and do one.

EDIT:
Actually now I remember the first time I had to do this and it was of course, a bloody Citroen...
My V6 C5 was parked in a tight garage and the rear suspension pipe burst while parked, emptying the contents of the LDS tank over the floor and leaving the car on the deck.
Couldn't drive it out because there was 'step' at the threshold that would have ripped the underside of the car and I couldn't get round the side (or to the rear) to get a jack under.
It was basically a beached whale.
This timber trick allowed me to get it lifted enough to then get under it with other apparatus...
Thanks.

It does make sense but no, the car doesn't start. I was in the process of fixing a burst pipe so its in pieces.
Mike

Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
superloopy
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by superloopy »

Stickyfinger wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 23:35 It is what is inside that matters most (from the cost point of view).....if you want advice about what you are looking at post some images of exactly where the problems are showing....that way people who "have been there" and those that know the inner structure can advise on the action needed.

For example, it makes a big difference if the rot is at the bottom of the arch near the sill or the top near/above the upper edge of the arch form.

As an example, this is a 3 skin area, there is another behind that inner rusty one !
Image
Its in the lower sill vicinity not further up, i'm guessing youre going to say thats the worst case. I've seen some fixes on the internet but until i get into that area have no idea how far the rust goes.
Mike

Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
superloopy
Posts: 3335
Joined: 30 Mar 2005, 03:25
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by superloopy »

Vic Evans wrote: 04 Feb 2025, 11:05
superloopy wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 22:56
xantia_v6 wrote: 03 Feb 2025, 21:37 Can you jack it up on the other side at the front or rear, which should also raise the low side enough to get a jack under?
Tried the other side and it just tips the car over and doesnt lift enough if any ... the car is really flat on the rims. The intention was to remove one tyre which was already on a rim and when the second one went bang the whole car went down to its stops on both of the rims. Suppose o could try digging a hole below the jacking point and sticking a bit of hardcore in for a base on which the scissor jack might raise a bit and let me get my low jackunder the front subframe, could work i i suppose.
I'll need to get the paving stones up
Air bag & wheel dolly(s)?
Airbag sounds interesting?
Mike

Xantia Activa Dante Red MK1 (96) 121k - SORN, to be broken
Xantia Activa Silex Grey MK2 (98) 120k -SORN, ditto
Xantia V6 Silex Grey MK2 (98) 95k - non-runner
Xantia TD Storm Grey MK1 (95) 95k - non-runner
thorter
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Re: I'm in a fix!

Unread post by thorter »

Check if this is possible, I have only a vague recollection of exact design. Is there enough clearance to get the spare wheel out and remove the holder? With that gone, perhaps a plank can reach the suspension cross tube which is fairly strong. Using bricks or blocks under the plank to lever on (and maybe two people), it may be possible to partially lift the car up, then swivel the plank to move the rear out from the wall in steps. Then roll backwards away from the wall.