Please could anyone tell me the hex size socket for removing the s/motor from a cit bx 1.7td. also is it much of a job?
Thanks
Mike.
starter motor removal
Moderator: RichardW
Hi Mike -
8mm hex key. Preferable a socket suitable for 3/8" or 1/2" 4drive.
Dead easy once you have "digged" your way down to the starter :
Depending on yearmodel, you have either the circular filter canister covering the area - or lots of hoses, ducts, cables etc.
Same goes on the clutch cable : if L-transfer arm fitted, it must be removed to access one of the 3 starter bolts.
You're dead sure it's the starter motor ?
- not a dodgy connection for the engagement solonoid ? - which is the most common problem eating up the voltage drive to the solonoid.
Try it out by a direct cable with (female) spade connector on the solonoid - connected to the battery plus pole.
(BE SURE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL - HANDBRAKES ON)
8mm hex key. Preferable a socket suitable for 3/8" or 1/2" 4drive.
Dead easy once you have "digged" your way down to the starter :
Depending on yearmodel, you have either the circular filter canister covering the area - or lots of hoses, ducts, cables etc.
Same goes on the clutch cable : if L-transfer arm fitted, it must be removed to access one of the 3 starter bolts.
You're dead sure it's the starter motor ?
- not a dodgy connection for the engagement solonoid ? - which is the most common problem eating up the voltage drive to the solonoid.
Try it out by a direct cable with (female) spade connector on the solonoid - connected to the battery plus pole.
(BE SURE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL - HANDBRAKES ON)
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By no means as bad as a petrol one. When you strip it down, check to see if a brush is stuck. They usually are and freeing them up solves the problem. The motors are 4 brush units and will turn on two engaged but with four engaged, they turn with twice the power. Strip and clean the solenoid, too and ensure that no magnetic dust is within to jam it.
I had a very peculiar starter motor problem on a very early BX 1.9 RD in that it had a massive build-up of carbon dust round the commutator and until that burned away the battery shorted straight to earth so it often took 2 or 3 attempted starts before the carbon stopped shorting out.
I took the starter motor off and found that it was of Mitsubishi manufacture; I cleaned the carbon dust out and examined the brushes and commutator, finding the comm not very badly worn I came to the conclusion that the brushes were very soft and invested in a new set which appeared to be harder. After this the problem did not reappear.
I took the starter motor off and found that it was of Mitsubishi manufacture; I cleaned the carbon dust out and examined the brushes and commutator, finding the comm not very badly worn I came to the conclusion that the brushes were very soft and invested in a new set which appeared to be harder. After this the problem did not reappear.
Hi Folks, me again. Having read and digested your advice, I decided to do as Anders suggested and "flash" the wires, then go from there. After disconnecting the spade terminal in preparation to do the test, I thought, hang on Mike , reconnect the wire then try the old fasioned way. So I gave the s/motor a couple of welts with a block of wood & a lump hammer and bingo it worked. So it seems that the starter is at fault. Now that I can move the car, I will replace it soon.
Thanks for your help lads. What an excellent website.
Thanks for your help lads. What an excellent website.