Hello all,
I've today found out the most probable source of my alternator problems on my J-reg 1.8 non-turbo 205. Dr Diesel in the July "Diesel Car" published a letter and solution for a guy with a 309 with the same problems on his car as I have on mine, namely that it's a reluctant starter, a suspicion the battery's not being charged properly, yet shows plenty of volts when running. The cause being suggested by Dr Diesel is that the rectifier diodes on one or more of the phases of the alternator have stopped working. However, he suggests that the alternator need not be binned entirely, but that I could probably buy a replacement rectifier bridge for the alternator. A few questions. Are these rectifiers reasonably easy to find, and if so, are they difficult to replace in the alternator, or is it a case of taking the alternator out and sending it away to be repaired? Or am I even looking at the possibility of buying a new alternator for the thing?
Many thanks,
Richard.
205 1.8D alternator problems
Moderator: RichardW
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Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- Location: United Kingdom
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Hi Richard, are you saying that the battery hasn't got the umph to turn the engine quick enough or it cranks ok but doesn't start easey.
My experience with these engine's is that even cranking at pretty slow speed they will start if everything else is ok.
Depends what you call a reluctance to start really.
If it's just the battery going down then it could be on it's last leg's, a drop test will show this, or there may be a drain on it, to find out disconnect one of the battery lead's and connect a 5w 12 volt test lamp in series with the lead and the battery.
If the bulb light's with everything switched off, you have a drain.
Disconnect the alternator and if the light goes out it does indeed have leaky diodes, if the light doesn't go out with the alternator then try other non ignition switch dependant circuit's untill you find the culprit. Dont overlook the interior light's, if they're on so will be the test lamp.
If there is anything wrong with the alternators ability to charge it will be seen in the brightness of the headligh's, with everything switched on they should brighten slightly when you rev the engine, if so it would seem to be ok.
Dave
My experience with these engine's is that even cranking at pretty slow speed they will start if everything else is ok.
Depends what you call a reluctance to start really.
If it's just the battery going down then it could be on it's last leg's, a drop test will show this, or there may be a drain on it, to find out disconnect one of the battery lead's and connect a 5w 12 volt test lamp in series with the lead and the battery.
If the bulb light's with everything switched off, you have a drain.
Disconnect the alternator and if the light goes out it does indeed have leaky diodes, if the light doesn't go out with the alternator then try other non ignition switch dependant circuit's untill you find the culprit. Dont overlook the interior light's, if they're on so will be the test lamp.
If there is anything wrong with the alternators ability to charge it will be seen in the brightness of the headligh's, with everything switched on they should brighten slightly when you rev the engine, if so it would seem to be ok.
Dave
Dave,
Thanks for getting back. Most of the time it starts OK. If it's been standing for a few days then it will show signs of struggling. In these circumstances, the low battery warning light stays lit - but very dim - for a short while afterwards. As for the drain, that's something I'll try as soon as the rain stops. (Both interior light switches have now failed, so that rules that one out. PSA electrics - don't you hate them? I used to own a Citroen ZX, and one by one various electrical items refused to work on that.)
What I notice about the lights is that as the engine idles, the lights flicker a lot. This is also visible in the dash lighting. Even when driving down a road (i.e. with the engine probably doing 2000rpm or so) the lights still flicker, but not as bad as when it's idling.
The battery's brand new. I had to replace the old one (dated October 2000) as it had failed. I found out that the dozy idiot who had bought it had used one rated for a PETROL engine, and not a diesel one. No wonder the battery was shagged, especially if it's not being charged properly.
I'll have an investigate tomorrow. Thanks for the helpful reply.
R.
Thanks for getting back. Most of the time it starts OK. If it's been standing for a few days then it will show signs of struggling. In these circumstances, the low battery warning light stays lit - but very dim - for a short while afterwards. As for the drain, that's something I'll try as soon as the rain stops. (Both interior light switches have now failed, so that rules that one out. PSA electrics - don't you hate them? I used to own a Citroen ZX, and one by one various electrical items refused to work on that.)
What I notice about the lights is that as the engine idles, the lights flicker a lot. This is also visible in the dash lighting. Even when driving down a road (i.e. with the engine probably doing 2000rpm or so) the lights still flicker, but not as bad as when it's idling.
The battery's brand new. I had to replace the old one (dated October 2000) as it had failed. I found out that the dozy idiot who had bought it had used one rated for a PETROL engine, and not a diesel one. No wonder the battery was shagged, especially if it's not being charged properly.
I'll have an investigate tomorrow. Thanks for the helpful reply.
R.