C5 X7 hydroactive suspension failure query - PART 2

[Bigzed]

Hi Guys,
I am looking for some advice on what is the best way to move the X7 after an LDS fluid leak on the drivers side rear of the car.

Background.
Parked up in the street outside house, suspension at normal height and lowered slightly on turning off the ignition. As per normal. Next morning noticed a small pool of fluid around rear tyre. Vehicle not noticably lower than usual. On looking under the vehicle I noticed wetness and drops of fluid on the bottom of the strut. On further inspection I note that the sphere is wet, along with the strut, the pipework is dry. So I am assuming either the sphere or the strut has failed. The car now has leaked more fluid and the back end is sitting at its lowest height ( fully compressed).

I am concerned about trying to move the vehicle, as 1) If I put the ignition on the LDS pump will run and force any remaining fluid out, and 2) with the rear so low will the wheels / suspension parts cause any damage to the wheel arches or underbody of the car. I want to move the car about 20 metres on the flat into my drive so that I can evaluate the situation further.

My thoughts on this so far is to 1) disable the LDS pump by removing the fuse #39 ( 10 A) on fuse box B, so that I release the electric handbrake and either pushing or driving the car at less than walking speed into the drive ( I assume that the rear suspension will be sitting on the bump stops).

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[GiveMeABreak]

Just be very careful to never get under the vehicle without independent support, as any issue with the suspension can cause it to crash down with no notice and it will crush you.

As for moving it, obviously you will have no suspension apart from the air in the tyres, so be careful, but shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't need steering! I wouldn't pull the fuse, just line the car up and push it back.

As for the leak, it could be the strut, but unlikely to be the sphere as these are screwed on relatively tightly. The struts need to be replaced, they can't effectively be repaired as they are bonded rubber to metal. But do check the pipes again as this is a favourite place for a fluid leak. I had a rear pipe go due to the bend in the pipe that was poorly made and it corroded on the innermost part of the bend and leaked.

[Bigzed]

Thanks for the suggestions, Marc.
BTW. The front of the car has not dropped, just the back. Is the front and the back on different hydraulic circuits. I will need to steer the car, as my drive is perpendicular to the street.
As for the leak, from what I can tell the pipework is definately dry, and the sphere is very wet and corroded and the strut is wet. So I am thinking at this moment that it maybe the seal between the two, or just worn out parts. But without being able to get proper supported access Iam at this stage just theorising.

[Stickyfinger]

There is a good chance the sphere seating surface has corroded away allowing a leak....... however, the whole area needs to be washed down with brake cleaner to ID the source. == as said above, this can ONLY be done with the rear of the car supported by stands.

Accept that there will be some loss of LDS, start car and just drive it up onto the drive. If you are doing work yourself, set to high and insert stands to prevent it dropping and to maintain access under the car.

Have a helper ready with some, or lay cardboard BEFORE driving into your parking area....then position a clean drip tray.

[Kees]

Yes, there are 2 separate circuits for front and back.
Because the back are leaking, the pressure goes down, so the back will go down, to the bottom, but you can still start the car and he will raise to the normal high if there's no mayor leak.
You can also raise the car in the highest position for repair, but use stands, and depressurize the system before removing the strut.
Greetings,
Kees.

[Bigzed]

Thanks Guys for your advice and suggestions.
Got it moved to the drive with cardboard under the problem area.
I can confirm the front stayed up in the normal position, so that I could steer. The rear did not raise, as suspected.
I will try and put in the high position to Jack it up and place axle stands at the rear to evaluate the issue more in depth.
I doubt whether the rear will raise at all due to the amount of fluid loss, but its worth a try.

Thanks again for your help.

[Stickyfinger]

As the fluid loss is as much as you as say....do not bother.....just use a low profile jack (or drive it up on some wood to give you clearance for a normal jack)....then get the jack under it from there and get it onto stands.

When you depressurise/set to low to remove wheels etc....REMEMBER to remove the LDS tank cap first.