fitment of rear brake pads ZX Volcane TD

RTM · Post by **RTM** » 13 Jul 2004, 18:29

Anyone help me out here. My ZX TD Volcane failed its MOT on low efficiency for the Near Side rear hand brake operation.
I pulled the wheel of expecting to see corrosion etc - but was amazed to see it in A1 condition (under the rubber gaitor) All moved well and apears to be in good operation. - But I did note that the pads were pretty well worn (with only 4 - 5mm of lining left)
So I thought - its probably just the pads that are knackered. I have now got a new set of pads - but how do I fit em? I now the obvious bits - but do I need to do anything clever with regards to the Handbrake leverage system? - Brings back horrors of Alfa Suds and their inboard disks.
Is this an easy task? Help please.
RTM
Email me if you like on TMIldren@axsia.com

alexx · Post by **alexx** » 13 Jul 2004, 20:02

From my remembering, it's the same system like in BX front brakes. You'll have to turn the pistons clockwise, several turns, with a screwdriver or something. Be careful not to damage the rubber

gjb02 · Post by **gjb02** » 14 Jul 2004, 15:02

The pads are fine, 2mm is the lowest you should go.
I would suspect the handbrake cable for poor handbrake efficiency. I recently changed my handbrake cables for the MOT and they are great now.
The cables are routed badly and the way that they bend causes wear on the inner cable, if the outer sheath is cracked it will rust on the inside and drag the cable as well. You will think the handbrake is on because one cable is tighter than the other, basically meaning one caliper handbrake lever isn't being pulled as hard.
Have a look at the cables, they're cheaper than doing the pads too!![:)]

RTM · Post by **RTM** » 14 Jul 2004, 19:32

Well I changed the pads no problem. (yep I did need to wind back the Pistons - Thanks for that, could have been there a while trying to work that out otherwise) But the handbrake is still crap on the NS. Even though the lever system is A1 I sprayed it with WD40 (not the disc I hassen to add). I put a pair of molegrips around the little lever on the caliper where the cable is attcahed and tryed it that way - it worked perfectly. - So thought - Ah must be the cable then. I disconnected the cable at the handrake lever and pulled the inner cable out as far as possible. Perfect - still coated in Nylon and very smooth in operation. Turned my attention to the lever next. The balance beam between the two cables was tending to pull more on the OS so I put a spacer under the head of the NS cable to bring the balance beam back to equilibrium. Adjusted the cables to give 5 clicks at most on ratchet. Guess what its still crap! Drove the car around for a couple of miles with hand brake applied - to bed in new pads - Still crap. So any Idea's? Disc are in good nick - nothing wrong I can see, but I can still turn the wheel (just) when handbrake applied. NS only OS is fine. But if I push the little lever by hand its ok.

aido · Post by **aido** » 15 Jul 2004, 02:37

RTM, WAS IT JUST POOR OPERATION OF REAR BRAKE BY HANDBRAKE OR WAS IT ALSO POOR EFFORT WHEN FOOTBRAKE APPLIED ASWELL? IVE GOT A ZX TD VOLCANE AND MINE FAILED ITS MOT BECAUSE OF LOW EFFORT ON ONE SIDE AT REAR AND THAT TURNED OUT TO BE BECAUSE OF A BLOCKED/SEIZED REAR BRAKE COMPENSATER VALVE TYPE THING.JUST A THOUGHT.

RTM · Post by **RTM** » 15 Jul 2004, 14:06

No its the handbrake operation. But I think I've sussed it now! On the handbrake itself is a balance beam which splits the pull into the two cables. Even though it looked like all was fine - the design of the system itself does not allow an even pull on both cables. I put spacers behind the nipple of the cable to put more load in the NS - and it worked. Basically the NS cable must be stretched. So a 1/2" spacer did the trick. Thanks for comments anyway. RTM.

RTM · Post by **RTM** » 20 Jul 2004, 18:40

Well it wasnt that either - although it felt better when up on jacks it still didnt pull up evenly when on the rolling road (during MOT test) So Got it home again and pulled everything apart. All was found once again to be in good nick - as before. So as an experiment - I put it all togther again ! but left slack in cables (at handbrake end) put foot on foot brake - started engine to get servo assistance. Held foot peddle down whilst I adjusted handbrake - Hurray it worked a treat. Must have been to much spongeness in new pads to get auto adjuster to work. Hope this helps someone else out there one day.