Locking wheel nut removal

[freddyokel]

I have the 'shearing centre' type of 4 pin locking wheel nuts on my Peugeot 207cc and they aren't budging.
Any kind of serious torque using a breaker bar causes the key to 'cam out'.
I've tried using a Lidl 'impact wrench' which when pushed on hard stops the camming out but appears to damage the tool without any movement.
Is there any simple way of getting these off?
I don't mind wrecking them on the way out as I have standard bolts to go back in.
I've also got a Laser 3464 nut removal kit but the engagement ring (not the centre shear part) is just slightly too small for the 26mm tool.
Got a quote of £80 from a specialist.

[Gibbo2286]

Easiest way is to pop into a good tyre supplier most are prepared with the right tools for the problem and have them off in no time.

[freddyokel]

I went to my local independent (who's never let me down) and he said. Peugeot/Citroen? No. Notorious. Not touching them with a barge pole.

[Gibbo2286]

My local guys did my C5 in 5 minutes and when asked 'how much?" just waved me away, no charge.
https://www.forestofdeantyres.com/contact-us

[freddyokel]

Wow, for that kind of service I'd take a drive over there!

[furriegurrie]

I took mine off with an electric drill. Weakend the top bit and snapped it off so the wheel can come off. Used a smaller drill and hammered a torx into this and unscrewed the bolt. When the wheel is off there is hardly any force required to remove the remainder of the wheelbolt.

[Stickyfinger]

To undo these, rattle guns are better than a long bar.

I had to drill one/hammer in a Torx bit on my C5.

Horrid things.

[PaulC5]

Rattle guns could be the cause of some of the locking nut problems, doing them up too tight and rounding the key slots in the bolt. I always check the bolt torque after nuts have been done up elsewhere. The Cactus had new tyres a while back and when I later serviced the brakes noticed some of the bolt slots had been elongated and they were not like that last time I removed the wheels so it must have been done at the tyre fitters. A smear of copper grease on the threads stops the bolts seizing so something to do when you get a new car as well as a bit of copper grease on the wheel/hub contact points so they do not seize together.

[RichardW]

Best thing to do with these is take them off and chuck them in the bin soon as you get the car. Saves any future troubles. Not much help to the OP... Snapping off the top bit, drilling a hole, and hammering a torx bit in seems the best plan. A thin walled socket hammered on the ring might get it off, but you would probably need to grind the socket down.

[Stickyfinger]

Rattle guns could be the cause of some of the locking nut problems, doing them up too tight and rounding the key slots in the bolt. I always check the bolt torque after nuts have been done up elsewhere. The Cactus had new tyres a while back and when I later serviced the brakes noticed some of the bolt slots had been elongated and they were not like that last time I removed the wheels so it must have been done at the tyre fitters. A smear of copper grease on the threads stops the bolts seizing so something to do when you get a new car as well as a bit of copper grease on the wheel/hub contact points so they do not seize together.

Which is why I said....to Undo them.....

[PaulC5]

I think it was undoing the bolts on the Cactus that made the slots rounded on the undoing side. If I did not put a lot of force pressing against the key it was slipping out whereas to do them back up was not a problem. The bolts had not been overtightened either since I always use a torque wrench.

[Oldpug]

I’ve lost count of the threads concerning locking wheel nuts, on here and other forums.

When you finally get them off bin them and fit O/E normal wheel bolts. Locking nuts are complete waste of time and cause more grief and hassle than other car problems put together.