If I set the timing on my 1989 205xs to 8 degrees before TDC as recommended, it runs like a dog. To get it to tick over at all nicely, I have to retard it way back to 12 or 14 deg. What could be wrong?
I have fitted new plugs, rotor arm, dizzy cap and ignition module.
Thanks in advance.
Antony
Ignition timing on a 205xs
Moderator: RichardW
You are advancing it if its running at 12 - 14 degrees!!
Did the prblem start when you fitted the new components? One or more could be faulty, in particular check the dizzy cap and arm, somme pattern parts for the TU engine are shockingly bad, my 205 is testament to this!
NExt check for any airleaks, eg the vac advance line from the back of the carb to the dizzy, remove it from the carb and suck; check it can hold a vacuum. My money is on this being bad.
Next is to check the idle CO mixture and general carb condition.
Did the prblem start when you fitted the new components? One or more could be faulty, in particular check the dizzy cap and arm, somme pattern parts for the TU engine are shockingly bad, my 205 is testament to this!
NExt check for any airleaks, eg the vac advance line from the back of the carb to the dizzy, remove it from the carb and suck; check it can hold a vacuum. My money is on this being bad.
Next is to check the idle CO mixture and general carb condition.
Obviously I meant 12 to 14 deg before!
This problem was the reason I started fitting the new components. It is a proper ducellier dizzy cap, but halfords own rotor arm. I replaced the vacuum pipe when I did the headwork. As I stated in my other, resurrected, post, I think I will just leave it at 12 deg before, raise the idle to 1000rpm as it likes it best there. It doesn't pink or get too hot. I will put the lumpiness down to a hotter cam.
Thanks for your help.
This problem was the reason I started fitting the new components. It is a proper ducellier dizzy cap, but halfords own rotor arm. I replaced the vacuum pipe when I did the headwork. As I stated in my other, resurrected, post, I think I will just leave it at 12 deg before, raise the idle to 1000rpm as it likes it best there. It doesn't pink or get too hot. I will put the lumpiness down to a hotter cam.
Thanks for your help.
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philhoward
If it's happy, then leave it there! Sometimes settings just aren't right for some engines..
Running on unleaded; as long as it doesn't pink, then all should be okay. The "retard by 4 degrees" is a pretty good ballpark figure, but some engines don't require that (if any); others require that much retard that they hardly produce the power to pull the skin off tinned rice pudding...
Running on unleaded; as long as it doesn't pink, then all should be okay. The "retard by 4 degrees" is a pretty good ballpark figure, but some engines don't require that (if any); others require that much retard that they hardly produce the power to pull the skin off tinned rice pudding...
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fastandfurryous
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This is exactly the method I used when setting up the ignition timing on my Bertone X1/9: Make the engine pre-ig at full load by advancing the timing too far, and then retard until it goes away, plus then another 2ish degrees. I haven't a clue what the final setting was, but it ran beautifully for tens of thousands of miles, with improved power and economy. If you use this method on a distributor with vac advance, it's best to disconnect the vac pipe and plug it, as it can cause a large amount of ignition scatter. In fact, with a moderate cam, you may want to disconnect the vac advance completely, as its only function is to (slightly) improve fuel consumption at low volumetric efficiency (part throttle). By removing it, and having only the speed-related advance, the timimg often becomes more accurate, and the engine becomes smoother. Fiat and Lancia were well known for not fitting vac-advance to a number of their sports cars, the X1/9 included.
David.
David.