A couple of suspension + CV questions

Paul Thomas · Post by **Paul Thomas** » 04 Jul 2004, 23:37

As my ZX has just failed it's MOT I have a number of repairs to undertake (As well as the oil leak !)
Both offise and nearside outer CV boots need replacing - any advice or suggestions on doing this ?
The offside rear front wishbone rear bush is split and needs replacing - again any advice or suggestions on this ?
Lastly the offside rear footbrake/handbrake is poor so I assume the rear caliper probably needs overhauling or would a clean up probably suffice ?
The biggest pain is that I've just got a new car and someone has offered to buy this as soons as I get a new 12month MOT !!

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 05 Jul 2004, 00:03

I've read your other post on your oil leak which looks as though it could be the front cam seal. Normally, I would suggest changing the cambelt as it could be coated with oil, but as you're getting rid of the car, you probably don't want to bother. Regarding the CV boots, the easiest and cheapest way out would be to use glued, split boots. I've used them in the past and can't really recommend them but they're OK short term.

Paul Thomas · Post by **Paul Thomas** » 05 Jul 2004, 03:08

Unfortunately I am selling it to someone I know so would rather not just do a quick fix.
The cambelt has no oil on it at all. In fact there is no oil visible on the pulley or on the cambelt housing either. However it can be seen from inside the wheel arch with the arch side lining removed and the cambelt cover removed. It starts running down the bottom od the engine mount onto the engine. It also appears down the back of the engine behind the metal section of the cambelt shroud at the back.
If the cam seal is the only source of oil in that area then I guess that is what it must be.
Are the CV boots a pig of a job with the normal ones then ? The garage that I used for the MOT use the stretchable/flixible ones that go on over a cone ?
The metal straps either end of the CV boots look a pain as well.

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 05 Jul 2004, 03:49

Best to bite the bullet here and let the garage fit the stretchy ones for you, they are better quality rubber since they are designed to have to stretch a long way for fitting.
But if you must do them yourself and fit the original parts (pattern ones are a very dodgy fit in my experience) you can split the shaft at the inner joint, simply remove the clip on the boot and withdraw the shaft taking car not to allow the three rollers to fall from their yolk, each roller has some thirty odd needle bearings in it so you don't want to loose any, then remove the circlip and slide the yolk and rollers off leaving the way unimpeeded for the new boot.
Alternatively the outer joint can be seperated from the shaft by sliding the boot away from the joint to get access to the splined inner part of the joint, and clouting it with a hammer via a heavy brass drift, but this method is awkward if you are not a customed to it and a stand by clip may be required as the one coming out can get sheard in half, either method negates the need to drain the gearbox oil or tackle the hub nut, removing the hub nut is useless anyway unless you can fit the stretchy type boot over the entire cv joint.
Dave

Paul Thomas · Post by **Paul Thomas** » 05 Jul 2004, 13:04

So I wouldn't be able to fit the stretchy ones myself ?
Any ideas what a back-street garage would charge for fitting each CV boot ?
How about replacing the cam end seal ?
Any advice on replacing the offside rear front wishbone rear bush. Would this be easier when doing the CV boot ?

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 05 Jul 2004, 15:36

Presumably you need to keep costs to an absolute minimum if you are selling it.If you start going to garages, plus the cost of an MOT, you will end up losing money on it.
Fit the split-boot kits to the CV's: there's nothing wrong with them as long as you follow the instructions to the letter, keep it clean, and they will be juat as good as new. I have had one on my BX for over two years now with no problems.
To sort the wishbone bush, I seem to remember someone querying this not long ago, and it worked out cheaper to just buy a new arm complete with bushes, and fit it as a direct replacement. Try a search- it was in the last two weeks or so.

Paul Thomas · Post by **Paul Thomas** » 05 Jul 2004, 16:06

bxbodger - thanks for the advice, I have read the relevant posts.
Do you still need to use the metal straps to hold the split-boots on or do thex fix on with a different method ? Any reason you could'nt use large jubilee clips ?

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 05 Jul 2004, 16:16

Most split- kits come with cable ties, which are fine as long as you pull them up tight- I have never had any joy with the steel bands, as I never seem to have the correct tool to get them tight enough, and I then just end up using cable-ties, anyway.
There's usually not enough room for a jubilee clip as the screw bit sticks out and would foul on the hub-carrier, and a jubilee clip would probably be too wide as well.

Post by **RichardW** » 05 Jul 2004, 16:21

Paul,
You need a 'spider' to get the boot over the CV joint - given that you're only one smart tap away from separating the joint anyway, I can't see the advantage really. I just used cable ties when I did the N/S one on my ZX last week. I removed the shaft from the car, and held it in the vice to separate the joint as that seemed easier for my first one.
The easiest way to do the wishbone rear bush is to replace the whole arm - it comes ready fitted with new front and rear bushes and saves a lot of heartache changing the bushes for the sake of about 15 quid! When refitting, fit the rearmost bolt that goes through the roll bar clamp as well first, as otherwise it can be 'interesting'. Do this at the same time as the CV joint boot, as you need to split the bottom ball joint for both. See my tip in "Hints & Tips" forum for getting the ball joint out easily!

David W · Post by **David W** » 05 Jul 2004, 16:37

Paul,
Engine oil leak.
Front wishbone.
2x driveshaft gaiters.
Possible new rear discs/pads or a caliper.
If you have sold it around the figures advised in the previous thread on the condition of a fresh MOT I would look at the cost of this not insubstantial amount of work and sell the car as-is at an appropriate cheaper price.
Then let the new buyer decide on the type and quality of repairs, any problems will be between him and his repairer..... with you well out of the loop.
There is such a huge variation in the way you could tackle these jobs and their cost. For example as others have said you could bung on a pair of split CV "stickyboots".
But the way I would do the job (just have on our '93 ZX TD) is to drain the transmission oil, take both shafts out, split them properly, clean and grease the joints, fit new OE boots (don't forget new joint snap rings), clean up the ABS rotor segments, fit new transmission oil seals, replace everything then refill with fresh quality transmission oil. If you pay someone to do it that well it costs!
Just my thoughts.
David

Paul Thomas · Post by **Paul Thomas** » 05 Jul 2004, 18:35

David
I would love to pass the problem on to the new owner but I have already agreed to get it fixed as part of the price we have agreed £600 (They will get the road tax).
I have concerns mentioned above that the shafts will explode when I remove them leaving me with lots of bits to pick up and put back together.
Just to confirm as well that plastic cable are suitable on each end of the CV joint to pass an MOT ?

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 05 Jul 2004, 20:05

Cable ties won't be any problem for the MOT. All they want is that the gaiter is not split and is securely attached.

Paul Thomas · Post by **Paul Thomas** » 05 Jul 2004, 21:13

I have got the cost of a new wishbone from GS&F along with both CV boots.
According to there system it can either be a rubber CV boot or thermoplastic on a 1.9TD. Mine is definately not thermoplastic and therefore must be the rubber one. Anyone else had experience of this ? (One other motor factor said it could either be a 20x80x85mm one or a 23x85x101mm one as it's not the thermoplastic one ??)
Any further advice or hints/tips on changing them ? I plan on applying copious amounts of WD40 to all of the bolts for a couple of days before hand to ease removal.
If anyone would take the time to give me a step-by step procedure on replacing the CV boot with a standard pattern-fit item (one-piece, not stretch) I would appreciate it. (I have a Haynes manual but would like a more experienced opinion.)
Am I right in believing that the large Torx-headed bolt need to be undone ? In which case I'll invest in some large Torx bits as I only have small ones.

Paul Thomas · Post by **Paul Thomas** » 06 Jul 2004, 21:28

Thanks for all of the help guys, I am struggling to find time to look at this further.
If I can sort out my oil leak I will get the garage to resolve the CV boots, suspension bush and rear brakes.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 06 Jul 2004, 21:50

I seem to remember that when our ZX 1.9D needed new boot being told the difference was the presence of a lip which could only be discovered when the boot had been removed. Let my friendly mechanic do the job and he told me the joint itself was too bad to re-use!
Not too bad to do BX TD - just dropped bottom joint, removed air scoop from disc, having undone hub nut with 18 inch wrecking bar, able to wriggle stub shaft out of hub and as it was off side shaft with joint I peeled back the boot and thumped it with a hammer which was not easy. Inner joint didn't come apart (I think it should have!) - fitted new boot, bit more grease and put back together.
Only problem was the ties - which I did fit and the new shaft ring which was too fat - so had to re-use old one.
I recall doing mini ones and fastening in place with MIG wire - no problems for 3 MOT's (there at least)
jeremy
jeremy