Hi all, it has been a while since I was on. Incredibly the C5 has been entirely trouble free!
I bought a replacement key to replace the original rather worn one and thought I could simply transfer the key blade over to the new remote. However, it is a pattern part and not exactly identical and seems that the key blank must be cut. OK, I'll go to car key cutting places but two I asked can't do it for one reason or another.
Question: has anyone had this type of key cut? any advice - must it be dealer - only or something?
I don't need the remote reprogrammed because the remote board at least is able to swap from the old casing to the new one with the three buttons working fine.
I had one cut at an auto locksmiths's in St Albans but that doesn't help you much in Glasgow Look online for a locksmith in your area that does mobile key cutting and I think you may be lucky!!
I used to be indecisive, now I'm not so sure!
I used to ride on two wheels, but now I need all four!
A lot of locksmiths ae very sniffy about cutting car keys where the blank is brought in to them. One tried to justify it by saying that the quality of the metal wasn't good and it could damage his cutting machine. Having said that I did eventually find someone who would cut it from my main key without problem.
As I get older I think a lot about the hereafter - I go into a room and then wonder what I'm here after.
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
It was an indy who described himself as a Cobbler / Key Cutting / Watch Specialist rather than one of the franchisee places or the security specialist type places.
As I get older I think a lot about the hereafter - I go into a room and then wonder what I'm here after.
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
Just some advice. Recently, I tried to get my 2001 C5 key (a different style to yours) copied at Timpsons. They refused to use the blank I had bought on Ebay which included a transponder chip. So, they cut one of their blanks. I tried it in the passenger door first...it did not turn. So I returned, and he fettled it a bit more. This time, the key went in, turned slightly, but did not unlock the door, BUT I could not withdraw it! The technician initially refused any liability, stating that the lock must be corroded due to lack of use (ie always using the remote). Having sought advice from head office on the phone, the technician used some fairly violent mean to extract the key, including hammering it into the lock. After, I checked he had not damaged the lock, which worked Ok with the original key, and refunded my money. Never again I promised myself. Remarkably, while I was waiting by my car, a woman told me she had had the same problem, only she had first tried it in the ignition, which required a complete dismantling to get the key out. So, before handing over your key....
1. Test the key in all locks. If possible, demonstrate this to the key cutter technician (take video proof).
2. Test the new key in the passenger door lock first.
3. Only test the new key in the ignition in a situation where you can cope if the key becomes jammed in.
4. In general, regularly use the key in all locks to keep them working.
Thanks aspire_helen, I visited an indie key place today and he cut the blank key I gave him using the factory key as the profile. He stated that since the blank was not supplied by himself that there was no guarantee so I accepted on the grounds that my old factory key was actually OK and it was simply the keyfob rubber buttons that are worn and that I simply wanted them replaced. Anyway, I opened the car with the old key, decided to start the engine with the old key (my car tends to sit parked all week until the end of the week) run it for a bit and then turn off to verify all was well. With everything unlocked, I tried the cut key in the ignition and although a bit more 'notchy' to turn it turned on the ignition OK. A warning came up on the display saying anti theft system fault and the engine would not run. New key is not coded to the car. OK though. Tried with original key and the car started as normal. Got out, locked the door manually with the new key and it also unlocked. I locked the doors manually and then returned inside to open each keyfob and then swap over the internal board, chip etc. Success, although I learned how to refit the flip out key blade the hard way.... Returned to the car with the new keyfob that now has the original key internals, unlocked the doors by the new remote, tried the new key in the ignition and it turned again OK but this time the engine started fine because the correct chip in the fob was in the right proximity to the coder. So it looks like it is all ok. Only negative is that the new keyfob had no Citroen chevrons and only had a blank square. It turns out the 15x15mm square logo is also quite available to buy so that's ordered now. Of course I did have a wee prod at the original key logo to see if it might pop out but didn't look like it would without wrecking the badge so that stays in place. So now have a nice feeling, brand new key in my old 17 year old C5..
But I know the pain of a stuck car key! my first car was a 1988 Fiat Panda and one evening something 'went' in the ignition barrel, the car turned off ok but the key was stuck .... after 20 minutes of trying to get it to come out I had a thought..." no one will steal a panda anyway" ... and left the Mighty Panda in the car park for hours. It was of course, still there 9 hours later... I think I ran that car for months with the ignition key permanently in the ignition! I used the separate door lock key to lock the doors and left the Panda everywhere.. Remember when there was a different key for the doors, boot and fuel cap?
Note to self: try the C5 new cut key in the fuel cap tomorrow and long before trusting it at the filling station..
Yup, the key has to have a transponder chip, and be programmed to the car, to overcome the engine immobiliser. Lots of info on the forum.
Oops. I forgot about the filler cap, although for me its a toss up which I would prefer to be unlockable - the fuel cap or passenger door. I suppose the safest thing to do is to test the new key in the filler cap BUT only after removing the cap with the old key.
I would think that if it operates all the other locks ok the fuel cap will be fine. The ignition & doors both have 7 wafers whereas the fuel cap only uses 3 or 4.
I tried it in the fuel cap today and it worked fine. In fact it actually works better than the original key that never seems to work first time and always needs a bit of a wiggle.
I actually tried that out of curiosity but it didn't work. I am not really sure where to hold it but I had it held above the other key in the ignition. Perhaps the anti theft is arranged smart enough that the encoded key must be in the exact position?
Was going to chime in but think the video above covers it. There's a tiny roll pin you can drive out and then key blade comes out. Part of the metal section remains on the key case.
Look online for a locksmith in your area that does mobile key cutting and I think you may be lucky!! 
