407 Hdi 2.7 bi turbo issue - valve solenoid

[407]

So after having replaced the 1351KT water pipe, the car ran well for a week or so.

I had to fiddle with the rear coolant cap at the rear of the engine (the one just past the diesel filter/ rear turbo pipe) as it was leaking.

Then the cruise control stopped working and gave me the " Speed Control System Faulty" warning

I replaced the brake pedal switch (other posts suggested might be the issue) but made no difference and then I saw onDiag that one of the injectors was reading 159%, maybe the ECU has disabled the cruise / speed control (read that somewhere)

The car then ran fine for a week until it lost power going up a hill - eg 2000 rpm but only going 40 kph. No MIL lights etc

Then it ran fine again and then lost power.

I then checked the vacuum pipes and they seemed fine except one fitting onto the vacuum pump (near the above coolant cap) seemed loose so I sprayed it and refitted but made no difference. I suspect I might have dislodged it when fixing the leak.

I'm now suspect the turbo vaccum solenoid, which Marc says is only available as a complete kit at £220 (see pic) part 1622HW (ps why did they mount it on the other side of the engine as far away as possible from the Turbo actuators ?)

Ive found a French parts site that suggests that the 1618HW, 1618C9 and 161842 parts numbers are interchangeable.
https://www.dpauto.fr/1561-electrovanne ... 61842.html

Can anyone confirm this ? The parts look the same and as far as I can see, they are all 12 volts and just turn the vacuum on or off.

[407]

Does anyone have a diagram that shows the correct way the three rubber hoses / pipework connect to the turbo solenoid valve 1618C9 or equivalent eg which pipe goes where ? .

I had a look at mine and traced the pipes as per the pics below

turbo valve with pipes 1 2 3

1618C9 example

As far as I can tell

Pipe 1 - this pipe has vacuum (when the engine is running) but seems to go into a one way valve (I assume this is preset to open up if the vacuum gets too much)

pipe 1

Pipe 2 - this pipe seems to go to both of the turbo actuators via a T joint

Pipe 3 - this pipe comes from the vaccum pump at the rear of the engine (just behind the diesel filter)

pipes 2 and 3

[GiveMeABreak]

Not sure if this will help:

1) Vacuum reservoir.
(2) vacuum pump.
(3) Rear swirl.
(4) Front swirl.
(5) Solenoid valve.
(6) Rear reaction link rod solenoid valve.
(7) Front reaction link rod solenoid valve.
(8) Rear reaction link rod.
(9) Front reaction link rod.
(10) Air cleaner.
(11) Brake servo.


Assembly

Connections to the solenoid valves :
Sleeves "A" without marking for the vacuum feed pipes
Sleeve "B" with marking (White ) : Actuator controls
Sleeve "C" without marking : breather

[407]

Thanks Marc, as usual

seems mine are okay then as they match the second diagram pipe outs .

I'm trying the track down why the car sometime "loses" power and then is okay. eg limps up a hill at 90 kph but other times is okay at 110 kph / cruise control says faulty and then is okay - This morning I could not rev the engine past 2700 rpm, but after checking the diesel filter (all clean) and doing an oil anf filter change, it was fine and would rev up to 4000.

I suspect I have an electrical gremlin somewhere, as on one diag test diesel temp was -40 C and the next one it was + 50 C.

I've think I can elminate the injectors being an issue (eg all are between 80% and 110% at idle, which is still in spec)

No MIL lights but have a bunch of diag codes which I can't seem to clear (says "clearing code failed") and the car run okay (except for the hills)

May spend tommorrow pulling all the connectors off and checking for corrosion etc

[GiveMeABreak]

Rev limiting is normal for some faults (temporary or permanent), so once the fault is cleared or the ignition switched off and on again, power returns to normal again - until a fault returns again and the cycle repeats. See if you can find the fault log in Diagbox / PP2000 that should provide a list of all faults whether temporary or not that may help - especially if the fault is clearing itself.

[407]

Its taken me a while to work out the issue is with the "new" front EGR, I fitted a few months ago, despite Diag Actuator tests says it is fine and I can see it clicking / working thru the top port(eg spins the valve in and out)

Diag did ID the front EGR with two codes P1462 EGR valve position 2 (front)) and P2144 (EGR valve control 2) or low voltage condition)

Diag also picked up other codes - U1218 BSI ECU reception, U2000 remote controlled wakeup (RCD) P1693 Controlled engine start andstop

If you recall from above, the limp mode disappeared and cruise control did work after a high speed run, so I suspect the EGR "fixed" itself (and then failed again)

Anyway, I connected a spare EGR I had to the 5 pin cable (eg just sat it on the engine) and all of a sudden the cruise control was okay and the engine would rev to 5000 rpm. Same when I took it for a drive. Diag also cleared all the error codes and they did not come back.

So now to permanently replace the "new" EGR which isa bugger of a job, but easier than the rear one

Hope this helps someone

[GiveMeABreak]

Thanks for the update.

[CAP777]

Hi... I know you posted this in 2023 but will try my luck with some advice. I have a 2007 Peugeot 407 1.6hdi. I have recently been experiencing similar issues to what you were experiencing. Some days the car has good boost and others barely any. On uphills, some days I have to drop from 5th gear to 3rd gear to maintain a speed of 60kph other days I need to take my foot off the gas in 5th hear to slow down from 90kms on the same hill. There is quite a bit of black smoke out the tailpipe when the boost work, especially uphills but when it doesn't boost, no smoke. I changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the boost solenoid but no change. It does show intermittent MAF circuit but when I unplug the MAF sensor, it makes no difference to the drive. Would you suggest that the EGR valve needs replacing? Oh yes, and my fuel consumption has increase dramatically. Thanks!

[407]

Hi CAP777

It would help to know what error codes are being seen - do you have Diag or maybe even a cheap Ebay reader ?

Does cruise control work ?

A quick look suggests a new EGR for Aliexpress is around EU40

cheers
Mark

[CAP777]

Hi Mark

I have a cheap ob2 scanner and use the FAP app.
These are the faults I am getting
P0104 Flowmeter signal
Open circuit or short circuit to positive or to earth of
the sensor supply or of the signal

P0113 Inlet air temperature sensor signal
(flowmeter)
Short circuit to positive or open circuit or value too high

P0118 Coolant temperature signal
Short-circuit to positive or circuit open

P0299 Turbo pressure electrovalve control
Flow too low

P0405 Electric EGR valve position copy signal
Signal voltage too low

P1351 Preheating relay circuit
Relay supplied and Plugs never supplied

P2143 Electric EGR valve control
Open circuit valve closed

I recently unplugged the MAF sensor and the EGR sensor to see if it makes any difference so not sure if the faults haven't cleared yet although the engine management light has cleared.
I also have an ABS and ESP warning. I replaced both front sensors but it is still there.
I am wondering if it is a electrical issue as most of the fault seem to be voltage based.
A few weeks ago I installed some aftermarket sound but kept the original head unit with satnav.
I will try cruise control today to see it of is working.

[CAP777]

As mentioned before, the fuel consumption is ridiculous. I was getting an average of between 6 and 7lt/100kms. It has now more than doubled. Half a tank gets me under 250kms, almost like driving a V8 but with minimal power.

[PaulC5]

Have you deleted the fault codes and then run the engine again to see which come back ? If not deleted they will stay there until deleted so some might be old codes that are no longer being given.

P0104 and P0113 could be the MAF sensor or its wiring are at fault. P0299 could be the MAP sensor is bunged up or faulty. If your scanner does live data see what values the sensors are giving.

[CAP777]

I can't seem to clear any of the faults with the app I'm using. Will have to take it to a place that has a proper diagnostics machine to clear them and see what other faults they get. The cruise control seems to be working. I was checking the MAF connector today and when I started the engine, it started beeping and showing the coolant temp was too high with a message telling me to stop the engine. The gauge started climbing up fast. I switched the engine off and checked the engine bay. Everything was cold. Switched the engine on again and the temp gauge was on the coldest. There must definitely be some electrical issues.

[PaulC5]

You will know this but anyway, to delete fault codes you do it with the ignition on (dash lit up) but with the engine not running. You could check the wires from the MAF and coolant temperature sensors for any damage and bad connections and see if anything happens moving them about with the engine running.

P1351 is a common fault to do with the glow plugs but does not usually cause problems so can be ignored for now.

[CAP777]

Thank you... I will have a fiddle around tomorrow to see if anything changes. I tried deleting the faults with just the ignition on but no luck. I might just get an old laptop with Windows 7 and the Lexia 3 PP2000 full chip. I have a feeling that I will be need to run diagnostics often with this car.