Hi, I would appreciate some sound advice regarding a cambelt change on my 1.5 diesel Saxo. I have unfortunately no service history with the car, and the car has done 80,000 miles. I have taken the belt cover off and there is a 'Powergrip' belt fitted which is not contaminated with oil and does not appear noisy. It also looks in relatively good order. When do I change the belt, now or leave for how many thousand miles? Any replies gratefully accepted.
Ceers, Foxy.[?]
Saxo cambelt change
Moderator: RichardW
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I like to change cambelts at 40000 miles. With four diesel engined vehicles in the family, most years see at least one getting a new belt. Often the old one comes off looking as good as the new one, but sometimes when the old is flexed inside-out, cracking can be seen at the base of the teeth. How long before the teeth will be stripped? For the sake of ten to twelve quid, I'd rather not find out!
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I have recently changed the cambelt on my 106D (same engine and floorpan). No problems at all with the belt change, but one cover bolt is a pig. Halfords sell ring spanners with an integral rachet head. Buy a 10mm one for this job - you will soon find out where it is needed.
A piece of domestic door handle square bar is a perfect fit in the tensioner hole. Turn this with a spanner to tighten the belt.
Note that some manuals are completely wrong in the locking and timing set up for the TUD5 engine. Lock the flywheel with an M6 stud on the opposite side from the starter, an M8 bolt for the cam pulley (borrow one from the alternator belt tensioner bracket) and a 6mm drill shank for the injection pump. Check that you can get all 3 locking pins in place before you release the belt. It is very important to tension the belt with the wheels free on the hubs, and to check that the 3 bolts in slotted holes on the camshaft and pump wheels end up near the centre of their slots.
Tension, with a cold engine (important) is 45 deg twist between cam and injection pump wheels.
A piece of domestic door handle square bar is a perfect fit in the tensioner hole. Turn this with a spanner to tighten the belt.
Note that some manuals are completely wrong in the locking and timing set up for the TUD5 engine. Lock the flywheel with an M6 stud on the opposite side from the starter, an M8 bolt for the cam pulley (borrow one from the alternator belt tensioner bracket) and a 6mm drill shank for the injection pump. Check that you can get all 3 locking pins in place before you release the belt. It is very important to tension the belt with the wheels free on the hubs, and to check that the 3 bolts in slotted holes on the camshaft and pump wheels end up near the centre of their slots.
Tension, with a cold engine (important) is 45 deg twist between cam and injection pump wheels.
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Just like to say thanks for this: just changed 106 diesel 1.4 belt. Advice here was very useful. Made my own tensioner using door rod , aluminium rod , string and 2kg weight. Apart from a few overtightened bolts (halfords professional ratchet spanner very good) and bits of rust, went well - but v slow as first time I've changed a cambelt.