CAMBELT CHANGE 16V

benewson · Post by **benewson** » 19 May 2004, 12:17

I am having trouble cracking the crank bolt on my 1999 petrol 16v.
I am assuming a normal right hand thread for the crank since i havent seen anything to the contrary in these forums or in the HAYNES {god bless).
There doesnt seem to be an easy method to lock the flywheel either so i have it in first gear with handbrake on, and plugs in.
I feel i have managed to give it a good clout but to no avail.
SO IS IT A LEFT HAND OR RIGHT HAND THREAD. ?
Thanks for any response.

Post by **RichardW** » 19 May 2004, 12:38

Ben,
Right hand thread. Get the engine hot first to soften the locking compound on the bolt, then get a BIG extension bar or pipe, support the drive end of the breaker bar so that you are turning the bolt and not trying to force the socket off, and swing away on the end of the bar... Extra persuasion in the form of getting someone to clout the bar whilst you've got the weight on it often helps. Oh, and try 4th rather than 1st - less torque at the hubs to turn the handbrake!

benewson · Post by **benewson** » 19 May 2004, 14:26

Thanks Richard. Just cracked it. Car on DIY car ramps with crank bolt exposed. Ran engine for 30 mins. 4th gear. Used a 3 ft extensiob on a 22m socket. Took up slack and jammed extension on concrete drive way.
Using right hand and underneath engine good clout with iron mallet.
olé. job done.
Definitely right hand thread.
ie. ANTICLOCKWISE TO RELEASE CRANK BOLT ON 16V PETROL 1999 XANTIA.
Thanks again.

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » 20 May 2004, 01:57

Alternative method-
Have changed belt on 405GLD a few times, Xantia due later this year.
Haynes instructions for 405 - With 4th or 5th gear selected, have an assistant depress the footbrake pedal and unscrew crankshaft pulley bolt. I used h/brake and wheel chocked.
I have then used a hydraulic bottle jack on my socket wrench. Raising jack, ensuring socket firmly on bolt head, bolt released with very little effort.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 20 May 2004, 02:15

just to make sure anyone could tell me if I'm wrong [8D]
- I have YET to see a left thread - i.e. COUNTER CW nipping up the bolt/nut - on any post '83 PSA car [:p]
If you know I'm wrong - please list model (& year) - and possible location on car of the left-thread [;)]

wheeler · Post by **wheeler** » 20 May 2004, 04:26

the screw that holds the cooling fan blades onto the motor on some xsaras/xantias is a l/h thread.

benewson · Post by **benewson** » 26 May 2004, 22:53

After removing the crank bolt i used the method of paint on the sprockets and belt teeth to memorize position of the cambelt. There was plenty of room to manouvre the cambelt off and then on again without removing the engine mount. The tensioner pulley was a bit knacked so that was replaced at the same time. Otherwise job was straight forward , only time will tell whether or not i got the tension right. Basically i matched the tension to what is was before removal;
A point worth noting, the paint marks do not line up every 2 revolutions as i thought. It may be several hundred before they line up again. So its worth it to keep winding the engine back and forth so you can see the teeth marks line up before actually starting the engine.

Doc · Post by **Doc** » 31 May 2004, 14:07

A method I have used when undoing crank bolts for a cambelt change is to drop the sump and wedge the crank with a block of wood or the end of a rubber mallet. It doesn't damage any components. Had to use this method when changing belt on a Honda engined Rover 416. The bolt was done up to 300+ foot pounds and wouldn't budge even when footbrake was fully on and wheels chocked!! A lot of Honda engines are like this, the technicians use a long bar and hit it hard with a hammer. A two man job!
Of course the lock crank method is practical if the sump can be removed without having to drop a subframe.
Doc

AllanEuerby · Post by **AllanEuerby** » 15 Jun 2004, 13:13

There's a much easier way:
Put the socket on the pulley nut & attach a big breaker bar or pipe & have it sticking out the front of the car.
Sit in the car & operate the starter for a few seconds (don't let the engine run - disable the ignition if it's likely).
Nut undone, easy peasy.
Allan.

oscarloco · Post by **oscarloco** » 15 Jun 2004, 20:00

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by wheeler</i>

the screw that holds the cooling fan blades onto the motor on some xsaras/xantias is a l/h thread.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The ZX have the same type of screw in the fans. I found that out when I tried to replace one.

ZXturbo_Aura · Post by **ZXturbo_Aura** » 15 Jun 2004, 20:25

my mechanic mate used a buzz gun when he did mine, because it pushes and turns at the same time etrc, similar to a impact screwdriver???
Dan

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 15 Jun 2004, 20:38

AllenEuerby- yes, thats the metod I use and have done succesfully for many years!! I recommended using this approach on this forum before and someone did mention that the bolt may shear, but I have never seen it happen yet, as long as one is clear what way everything is going to rotate when the key is turned.
This method is also used a lot in the trade, as it saves time on dimantling to get an impact gun in, but the sight / sound of it when the starter turns would probably horrify the customer!!!!
It also works for hub nuts- wedge bar against floor/ kerb, have an assistant keep the socket against the hub nut, and slowly creep car forward or back depending on which side- hey-presto,instant loose hub-nut!!!