bx19 hydraulic tub (pipe)
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kanuie
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 08 May 2004, 02:28
bx19 hydraulic tub (pipe)
i need to change the hydraulic tub pipe that is fixed to the side of the engine,in between engine & gearbox. the one on the top left where the the 4 pipes leave the small box that is fixed to the front of the engine hope this helps.is it just a case of changing it or will this cause an air lock also do i have to have it on its highest level.
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
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kanuie
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 08 May 2004, 02:28
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
Ahhhh....
I bet it's the 6.35mm dia rigid steel pipe running from hydraulic pump (HP) to the servo steering Flow Divider Valve (FDV).
This pipe takes some odd bends over the front of the engine block, and is bolted down 2-3 places to avoid the pipe cracks from vibrations.
There are a couple of precautions to take before you replace this pipe :
1) Unbolt the clamps fixing the pipe to engine block. If your new pipe is NOT supplied with retaining clamps, you have to move over the clamps from old pipe. It's <i>very important</i> the pipe is retained with clamps over it's run, to avoid vibrations.
2) On the pressure regulator (PR), which is the unit low down on engine block with a large green ball attached, you'll find a 12mm headbolt. This is the hydraulic system's pressure release screw. It's the ONLY 12mm headbolt in this area, and the bolt looks like it's not fully winded in, not retaining anything. It resides behind a bracket, and the bolthead points towards radiator. Loosen this bolt 1/2 turn (ccw), to release system pressure. Do NOT unscrew the bolt.
3) Unwind the union nuts securing the hydraulic pipe on HP & FDV. Then pull out the pipe. Don't be scared if the pipe seems stuck, wriggle & and pull hard to get the pipe ends out.
4) With a hairpin wriggle out the old rubber seals from pipe ports in HP & FDV. If necessary move over the retainer clamps to new pipe. Fit NEW pipe seals on both pipe ends, do NOT fit the seals in the pipe ports on HP & FDV. Wet the seals with green hydraulic LHM oil.
5) Now fit the pipe in the ports, ensuring the pipe ends are homed fully. Some gentle wriggling may do the trick. By help of the union nuts, gently home the pipe seals, then nip up by hand the union nuts.
6) carefully adjust the pipe run over the engine block, ensuring the pipe retainer clamps fits exactly over the bolt holes, not stressing the pipe.
7) Now torque the union nuts each end of the pipe. Do not over torque, just sensible hand force allowed by correct size tool. Then do the final adjustments to pipe run and bolt down the retainer clamps.
8) Close the 12mm pressure release screw on PR, do not torque the bolt, just be sure it's tensioned.
9) Now start engine and check the pipe does not leak. If it leaks at union nuts, then slightly tension the nuts.
Have fun (bump !) - Best of luck [8D]
I bet it's the 6.35mm dia rigid steel pipe running from hydraulic pump (HP) to the servo steering Flow Divider Valve (FDV).
This pipe takes some odd bends over the front of the engine block, and is bolted down 2-3 places to avoid the pipe cracks from vibrations.
There are a couple of precautions to take before you replace this pipe :
1) Unbolt the clamps fixing the pipe to engine block. If your new pipe is NOT supplied with retaining clamps, you have to move over the clamps from old pipe. It's <i>very important</i> the pipe is retained with clamps over it's run, to avoid vibrations.
2) On the pressure regulator (PR), which is the unit low down on engine block with a large green ball attached, you'll find a 12mm headbolt. This is the hydraulic system's pressure release screw. It's the ONLY 12mm headbolt in this area, and the bolt looks like it's not fully winded in, not retaining anything. It resides behind a bracket, and the bolthead points towards radiator. Loosen this bolt 1/2 turn (ccw), to release system pressure. Do NOT unscrew the bolt.
3) Unwind the union nuts securing the hydraulic pipe on HP & FDV. Then pull out the pipe. Don't be scared if the pipe seems stuck, wriggle & and pull hard to get the pipe ends out.
4) With a hairpin wriggle out the old rubber seals from pipe ports in HP & FDV. If necessary move over the retainer clamps to new pipe. Fit NEW pipe seals on both pipe ends, do NOT fit the seals in the pipe ports on HP & FDV. Wet the seals with green hydraulic LHM oil.
5) Now fit the pipe in the ports, ensuring the pipe ends are homed fully. Some gentle wriggling may do the trick. By help of the union nuts, gently home the pipe seals, then nip up by hand the union nuts.
6) carefully adjust the pipe run over the engine block, ensuring the pipe retainer clamps fits exactly over the bolt holes, not stressing the pipe.
7) Now torque the union nuts each end of the pipe. Do not over torque, just sensible hand force allowed by correct size tool. Then do the final adjustments to pipe run and bolt down the retainer clamps.
8) Close the 12mm pressure release screw on PR, do not torque the bolt, just be sure it's tensioned.
9) Now start engine and check the pipe does not leak. If it leaks at union nuts, then slightly tension the nuts.
Have fun (bump !) - Best of luck [8D]
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kanuie
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 08 May 2004, 02:28
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
No -
These seals are special, must fit exactly in size and shape. Your local www.gsfcarparts.com will stock them.
These seals are special, must fit exactly in size and shape. Your local www.gsfcarparts.com will stock them.