DW10FUC Cambelt change proceedure?

[earlsgate]

this maybe my first post here on FCF so I express my gratitude at it's existance and further thanks to those who skillfully administer it. Apologies for any mistakes to posting protocols ie links or videos

I have a 2017 Boxer van with a VIN VF3**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] currently on around 86k miles with a recommended timing belt change interval of 96k or 10 years, but as there are frequent postings, on the facebook groups, for those 2.0l bluehdi engines failing before those limits I am intending to do the work myself in the shorter term

there is one Peugeot mechanic there who claims he can "do the job within 2 hrs max" without touching the engine mounts but with my limited experience, and access, on this engine I would imagine at least 2 days! which would include all the parts in its path, and the auxillary belt

to be fair it does seem a simpler job than the VW 1.6tdi one which I have just completed, the success of which was down to plenty of good videos from Youtube. I've seen a couple here, possibly applying to this engine, and checked the resouces to find there are some technical posts too

any pointers and links to this engine's timing belt prceedure much appriciated. I understand speaking with the local Peugeot dealers parts dept. there are no Torque to Yeild. use once bolts to replace unlike the VW with the engine mounts and cam/pump sproket set costing around £50

martin A

[wheeler]

You have a DW10FUD engine.
Is that including the water pump in 2 hours??
You definitely want to change the water pump at the same time as they are a well known common failure on this engine, the plastic impeller goes loose on the shaft.
Its certainly doable in 2 hours (on a ramp & with an impact gun) if you weren’t also doing the water pump. As for doing it without disturbing the engine mounting I would imagine would be very difficult, especially trying to tension it. If it can be done like this i can’t imagine its not even worth the hassle seeing as it only takes a couple of minutes to remove the mount.

[earlsgate]

thanks for the correct engine code, which you would have presumably found through the VIN

I was only quoting the Peugeot mechanics claim as it seemed a bit too confident but at least giving some overall scope of the job. I would be in no hurry as the van is used as an all purpose camper van and is off the road for long periods in the winter months when i can get into these projects. The main thing is doing the job right with all the correct torque settings applied.

I saw similar claims about not removing engine mounts before doing the recent VW engine where the tensioner's stud was locknutted out to enable the new one, to be inserted, but rejected that idea and removed the mounts after supporting the engine

I had noticed the water pump on the VW was slowly loosing coolant through a slow weep, and presumably imminent complete seal breakdown, so I would always be looking to change that as the belt and other parts there were in fine condition at 106k miles on 12reg engine on the factory fitted parts

if the water pump did fail as you say whilst being driven in the meantime would that produce an engine management warning light due to the coolant no longer being circulated, other than just a passive high reading on the coolant temperater guage?

[wheeler]

if the water pump did fail as you say whilst being driven in the meantime would that produce an engine management warning light due to the coolant no longer being circulated, other than just a passive high reading on the coolant temperater guage?

Yes the engine code was from the VIN.
No EML on normally
Believe it or not they dont seem to normally overheat when the pumps go, the first sign of it is no hot air from the heaters. The impeller stays attached to the shaft on the pump so will still operate to some extent but if you twist it it will turn independently of the outer pulley, very common issue.
Peugeot sell a complete timing belt kit including water pump for £244 for original (1613327980) or £168 for an aftermarket alternative (1681785880).

[earlsgate]

Yes it's hard to believe that a failed water pump would not cause the system to overheat but I am reading countless FB group instances of water pump failures on these engines, and if what is being said about the lack of warning from either an EML or the coolant gauge moving up, its no wonder they are also reporting many damaged cylinder heads. As has been said, the only sign on the existing set up is lack of heating as the water no longer circulates, but that's only going to show on a winters day. Perhaps another gauge of some sort could be added in to give a better picture of any lack of coolant circulation?

my timing belt job went fairly well using the resources to found on the forum and it was well worth releasing the engine mount bolts, I had a subsequent crankshaft position sensor go but it was easy enough to fit a replacement. I also found out that many of these failures of replacement pumps are caused by incorrect installation so would advice reading this before putting any tension onto the new belts https://www.gatestechzone.com/en/news/2 ... mp-failure