What is tracking and alignment
Moderator: RichardW
What is tracking and alignment
Hi
Apologies for my ignorance but what is tracking and alignment, I have a 98 Xsara, I've always had the wheels balanced when getting new tyres, should I be getting the tracking and alignment checked as well, where can I get this done and how much can I expect to pay for it?
Thanks
Apologies for my ignorance but what is tracking and alignment, I have a 98 Xsara, I've always had the wheels balanced when getting new tyres, should I be getting the tracking and alignment checked as well, where can I get this done and how much can I expect to pay for it?
Thanks
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Tracking and alignment are the direction the front wheels are pointing in (plus also the angle to the road, and the effect of the steering axis, but these are not adjustable on most road cars). Simply put, under load the front wheels should be parallel and pointing straight ahead. If they point inwards there is too much toe in, and the tyre wears the outside edges out first. If they point outwards, there is too much toe out and the tyres wear on the inside first.
If your tyres wear evenly, the steering wheel is central when going straight and the car doesn't pull to one side, the tracking is OK and can be left. Most places will check it for free, and only charge if it needs adjusting - which usually costs £20 - £30 - and it ALWAYS needs adjusting, according to them[:o)]
Driving like a loon round roundabouts etc will also wear tyres unevenly of course....[}:)]
If your tyres wear evenly, the steering wheel is central when going straight and the car doesn't pull to one side, the tracking is OK and can be left. Most places will check it for free, and only charge if it needs adjusting - which usually costs £20 - £30 - and it ALWAYS needs adjusting, according to them[:o)]
Driving like a loon round roundabouts etc will also wear tyres unevenly of course....[}:)]
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The problem arises when the monkeys doing the job do not know what they are doing. Most (that is 99.999%recurring) of them don't do it right. If the car steers, stops and sticks ok, together with reasonable tyre wear then have it left well alone!If you have access to the right gear,it would take about an hour to do it properly(check, double check, slight adjust on both track rods, roll back and forwards, check, double check and repeat until done....)
I entirely agree with Richard. Watch out most places will only adjust one side which immediately means that the steering wheel is off-centre, and also screws up the geometry, meaning that the car steers differently left and right.
the wheel alignment should always be adjusted from both sides and ideally a modern computer system should be used which will align all wheels with the axis of the car.
I've had hours of fun unwinding bodged alignment on our cars over the years and even got a mini correct - only to be told that it needed a new rack on an MOt and the bloke who did all the work put me back to square 1 !
jeremy
the wheel alignment should always be adjusted from both sides and ideally a modern computer system should be used which will align all wheels with the axis of the car.
I've had hours of fun unwinding bodged alignment on our cars over the years and even got a mini correct - only to be told that it needed a new rack on an MOt and the bloke who did all the work put me back to square 1 !
jeremy
If you feel confident enough to do your own checking and adjustment, get yourself a Gunsons track-rite.I don'tknow how much they are nowadays, probably about £60-ish. Very easy to use, with simple instructions, and pays for itself over and over again.
I have had one for the last 10 years and have never had any alignment problems using it after fitting track-rod ends, etc... It may not be quite as accurate as laser gear,but its a damn sight more accurate than the average tyre bay laser gear operative!!
I have had one for the last 10 years and have never had any alignment problems using it after fitting track-rod ends, etc... It may not be quite as accurate as laser gear,but its a damn sight more accurate than the average tyre bay laser gear operative!!
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Must admit "they" are getting alot better these days. I remember having a "discussion" with a tyre fitter a number of years ago when he checked the alignment and said it was way out at 6 deg when it should have been 1. So the car was put on the ramp and the gauges re-attached and the reading had become 2 degrees. He just didn't get it went I asked how on earth he reckoned he could accurately adjust it to 1 deg when the difference in the two readings without any adjustment was 4 time greater than the setting he was attempting to achieve. OK could have been shot suspension but all he wanted was twiddle some track rods and relieve me of 10 quid.
I do agree it is an art, only found 1 chap who could get it right on my BX.
Just for information front wheel drive cars tend to be specified with slight toe out, ie the front wheels are wider apart at the front than the back. Rear wheel drive cars usually toe in.
Rory
I do agree it is an art, only found 1 chap who could get it right on my BX.
Just for information front wheel drive cars tend to be specified with slight toe out, ie the front wheels are wider apart at the front than the back. Rear wheel drive cars usually toe in.
Rory
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When mine was done recently, it was only the front. Had it done by a national chain (NOT F**k Fit ) when I had the front tyres changed, and it's transformed the car for the better.
Of course, it helps that the bloke who actually did the work happens to drive a Xantia himself - the job was done properly!
Stu.
Of course, it helps that the bloke who actually did the work happens to drive a Xantia himself - the job was done properly!
Stu.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by compbuild</i>
So Just to clarify, If I'm not noticing any problems I should leave it?, I thought maybe because I hadn't had it checked in three years I should make sure it was OK
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
With these wheel alignments I always work on the old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" because if it's right it'll stay that way until some over enthusiastic greasemonkey having a slack day and looking for a way to boost the days takings, gives it a tweak for the sake of it & it ends up costing a couple of tyres as well as a rectification.
Don't know why it is, but whenever I've had mine done as a matter of course, say after getting newe tyres, it's never felt the same and the oldest trick in the book is to tell you that it should only be done when you get new tyres; that way when they stuff it up, they blame the tyres.[V]
Alan S[;)]
So Just to clarify, If I'm not noticing any problems I should leave it?, I thought maybe because I hadn't had it checked in three years I should make sure it was OK
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
With these wheel alignments I always work on the old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" because if it's right it'll stay that way until some over enthusiastic greasemonkey having a slack day and looking for a way to boost the days takings, gives it a tweak for the sake of it & it ends up costing a couple of tyres as well as a rectification.
Don't know why it is, but whenever I've had mine done as a matter of course, say after getting newe tyres, it's never felt the same and the oldest trick in the book is to tell you that it should only be done when you get new tyres; that way when they stuff it up, they blame the tyres.[V]
Alan S[;)]
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I would agree with all who say there is no point having alignment checked unless you have reason to suspect it is out.
Only toe-out can really be adjusted - if anything else (KPI, camber, castor, or toe-out on turns) is incorrect, something is bent or worn.
The Trakrite is fine if you have enough level ground to use it on.
I am going to build a laser tracking gauge from scrapbox bits - at the plans stage at the moment!
Only toe-out can really be adjusted - if anything else (KPI, camber, castor, or toe-out on turns) is incorrect, something is bent or worn.
The Trakrite is fine if you have enough level ground to use it on.
I am going to build a laser tracking gauge from scrapbox bits - at the plans stage at the moment!