In Gear Question...

[Doo]

Right chaps, curious one for you.

I'm still relatively new to the piloted box. I like it, but the epoch it takes to change up is a tad nippy That aside, I don't mind it.

However, I'm having rear brake issues... I had to strip & rebuild the rear right caliper as I thought it was sticking. Nothing whatsoever wrong with it, but the pads were stickng in the carrier. No surprise there, they'd been cooked. So got them off, cleaned the mating faces of pad/carrier, checked parking brake cable, all was well and no issues for almost 25 miles What? Smoke belting off the same wheel so popped to factor, bought new pads, parking brake cables etc and about to tackle it "again"

Anyway, I needed to roll the car forward a bit but she was solid!! Actually, not solid. I tried rocking it to undo the brake and saw the wheel was free as a bird, but the car wouldn't move more that a couple of inches

It was almost as if a manual car was in gear... I looked in and saw the turn selector was in A. So ignition on, twist to N and all was well, the car rolled beautifully.

But who knew Figured I'd ask/tell in case someone is scratching their head too

So my next question, is it possible the hill assist might be causing issue with the sticky caliper? I've stripped the moving parts, all clean. The carrier was cleaned with the wire brush on the grinder. The caliper taken apart, etc. Properly bled and the usual brake issues dealt with.... Except not

I'm sure I'll figure it out. But is it possible for the hill assist to be faulty without flagging up a warning? I'll check using the Lexia, but the car is otherwise fine.

Strange though

[GiveMeABreak]

Which car are we talking about - can't tell from your profile or the description?

Hill start assist is generally controlled by the ESP ECU and if there is anything wrong, you'll get warnings concerning it.

[Doo]

Which car are we talking about - can't tell from your profile or the description?

Hill start assist is generally controlled by the ESP ECU and if there is anything wrong, you'll get warnings concerning it.

Aha, silly me. My 2012 Lingo X-TR.

However, I "did" think it would be strange if the HA as faulty as this car has generally behaved itself well considering the milage (just coming u 149,000).

I was initially curious as to why the piloted box would leave 1st gear engaged, but then being that it has a standard clutch, I guess turning the ignition off just after creeping forward and leaviing it in A is akin to leaving a manual car in 1st gear & switching off he ignition. I guess it can't just disengage without power to do so.

As for the brake, the actual problem was obvious when I removed the wheel. When I initially cleaned the mating faces, I would have removed enough rust to allow the pads to sit just far enough back to catch the raised surface rust on the part of the disc not "cleaned" when the brake is applied. So that lumpy bumpy section was just enough to start grabbing the pads and wearing them down. The hotter everything got, the minute amount of expansion kept the portion of the pad against the rusty surface and it started smoking. I have decided to leave the pads in (although I will keep hold of the new pads and get a set of discs soon) in place as I took the mini grinder and shaved off a sliver off the edge of the rear section as well as take the wire wheel to the portion of disc that was snagging the pads. It appears to have done the trick. Nothing is dragging or smoking or generally being a pain in the butt

The front discs and pads are months old and in good order, so no worries there. However, tomorrow I mostly have to replace the strut top bearings. So the drop links will be the worst part of that removal process Mind you, my Parkside impact gun can go up to 400Nm of torque, so it shouldn't be too much of a stress

Always fun and games with old cars

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, you seem to have it licked!